Alpinfox

I am trask. edit: Ahem.... BITCH!

What a crappy website. This one is better:

Good post Jason. The biggest advantage to redirecting the belay off of a higher piece is that if the second falls, the belayer gets pulled (slightly) in an upward direction rather than getting pulled (with more force) in a downward direction, potentially pulling the belayer off of his/her stance. I find it unnerving to get pulled downward when I'm belaying a second, so that is the main reason I redirect the belay. When I do a redirection, it is usually from a seperate piece that is not in the anchor system or I extend myself below the anchor and do a slingshot belay through the anchor. Belay directly from the anchor using reverso- Advantages: autolocking, belayer out of the system, no tug on belayer Disadvantages: Can't belay the leader, so if swapping leads, need to move reverso to harness. Can be awkward if belayer is not somewhat below the reverso. Redirect the belay- Adv: tug on belayer is negligable and in upward direction. Ready for second to lead out. Disadv: High force on piece used for redirect. Belayer is in the system. If redirect piece isn't high enough, can make belaying kind of cramped and awkward. Belay directly from harness - As the belayer, you should make sure there is little or no slack between you and the anchor in this setup. I got yanked over a tree branch and scraped myself up pretty badly once when my second fell and I had some slack. Adv: Simple, familiar setup. Disadv: Belayer can be pulled off stance. Belayer is in the system.

Thanks ScottP!! my job seems so much better after reading that.

Probably have to wait for the next iceage for this one: Angel Falls, Argentina Looks a little thin!: Yosemite Falls, 739m

With any luck she will turn out to be a lurker here and we'll get to see some fireworks! Michael Layton is Dan Howwitt Michael Layton is a water based cleanser Michael Layton kills bugs dead Michael Layton is 15% off Michael Layton was discovered orbiting Jupiter Michael Layton, for all your veterinary needs.

Multnomah Falls Edit: HA HA, SMG I Scooped you! Neener Neener!

DUDE THAT'S AID!!! Anyway, what brand/model of draw do you use (I assume a longer one) and how did you insert the wire? This sounds like a good idea for hard sport routes. A license plate makes a great stove stand. Just drill a couple of holes and add some bungee stuff to hold the stove down. Thanks to my friend Josh S. for that one.

PFFFTTTT!!! Obviously you don't have a degree in GONZO PHARMACOLOGY!

The honda has multiple handles, but no "OH SHIT" handle on the passenger side for some reason? WTF? It seats two sunburned climbers and three dancing girls very VERY comfortably. Not much room left for the portable phamacy though. The pro for the 5th pitch of that climb is offset brassies and seven #5 camalots. That's not a tomato, it's a roll of paper towels. Maybe time for an eye exam? What's a zine? Oh, and Dru, yes R&I, Climbing, Alpinist, and GORY (polish climbing mag) are all clamoring to publish details on our standard setting climb, but we are negotiating with Ascensionist.com to give them exclusive rights to the story in exchange for giving us the power to ban people there.

X or O?

I see...... CLOUDS!

DFA and Muffy are both on the verge of breaking 6000! But the real question is, when will the KingOfFreshiez reach 50117!?!? The suspense is killing me!

How hard is it to get to? You took that pic from the NW peak 6917'?

Goat Citadel? Or one of those other goat rocks peaks.

You might also consider Marmot Pass. Nice camping around there and you can hike/scramble up to the top of Buckhorn for a summit view. My coldest night in WA (besides Rainier in winter) was spent at Marmot Pass several years ago. My wine froze!

How many gecko's feet would I have to skin to make a pair of gloves? ___________________________ MMMmmm..... VanDerWaals Forces....

yup

You're still a student right? Which means you have health insurance... go see a doctor before you head off to see Atilla. Be sure to post a TR with lots of pictures from your trip to the Doc.

Just to be absolutely clear (and in case any hot single climber chicks check me out on cc.com) this: ...is not me. I just found that page doing a google search for "alpinefox". My flock-of-seagulls cut is WAY better than that.

February 2004 from Hwy2:

Yikes! That's expensive. Take some regular webbing with you for leaver stuff. I would be pretty nervous about a waterknot in any dyneema/spectra sling due to it's slipperiness & thinness. Maybe a fisherman's would be better? I dunno. RE: Q#1, If you trust the jammed knot not to slip through your anchor, it seems like it would be OK. However, having the 6mm through your device insures that it will stay close to you (i.e., you will be able to reach it), when you get to the end of the rappel. The only reason I can think of to not have the 6mm line through your device is to avoid tangling. Re#2, I believe it is standard practice to use two oval or D biners as the "perpendicular" biners. The gates of those two biners should be opposite, but NOT opposed. If they were opposed, the rope would push open one of the gates. I've never tried using three biners, so can't comment on that.