Gary_Yngve

Grading 50 programs for both functionality and style (and giving them comments) in less than a 48-hour turnaround is pretty darn rough.

Doesn't surprise me. Moldova is the poorest countries in Europe, but hey, they're one of our new allies in the coalition! Do Moldova and Macedonia make up for the loss of France and Germany (who were in the Desert Storm coalition)?

Remember, Iraq is tied to 9-11 and Al Qaeda, and they would have given WMDs to terrorists had we not intervened. Afghanistan and Iraq are one and the same. And we'll be attacked by terrorists if Kerry becomes president.

Compare it to the 34 country coalition of Desert Storm. http://www.cnn.com/SPECIALS/2001/gulf.war/facts/gulfwar/ We lost France and Germany. We lost all of the Arab nations.

33 countries, baby! Most are ex-commie countries or banana republics. http://www.iraqwarveterans.org/coalition.htm has clickable links to CentComm to find out the countries' roles. Some are so new to the coalition (is Bush racing to add more just to look good?) that they don't have any webpages yet.

All this talk of Colin, the dudes who skiied the NF, etc., reminded me of the following: The best and baddest ascent of Robson ever was done by Ashley Young, EXTREME CLIMBER. However, it is being disputed by Lisha Hudson, EXTREMERER CLIMBER. I am currently reviewing both of their documentation to decide whom I believe.

In general, I thought Bush handled himself better than last time, though he did blow up that one time in the middle of the debate. I was disappointed with Kerry because he kept repeating the same soundbites and he spent more time talking about Bush's failed plans than his own plans. But then again, the point of the debate is not for Kerry to woo me but to woo the average undecided voter. Nevertheless, Bush and Kerry were able do distance themselves from each other on several important issues, including stem-cell research. A few random comments: Bush's thing about how small-business owners would be put out of business from tax hikes on the highest brackets. That's bullshit. Even if you're not using a separate business acount, you can still take all your business deductions on your personal taxes, meaning you're not going to be taxed on income that's really going to pay for employees, etc. The question from a person who was concerned that her tax dollars would fund abortions annoyed me: because no one asked a similar question about their tax dollars funding a misguided WAR.

Dates for NWMJ are on the link I posted (there are several options in the menu that load different content). Copied from there, the dates are: "The target date for publishing the next Northwest Mountaineering Journal is Memorial Day, 2005. We will issue a call for submissions around December 1, 2004. The deadline for submissions will be March 1, 2005, although earlier submissions will be gladly accepted by the editorial team."

Music helps big time. The first hour of data entry sucks, but after that, you just get numb and drone away without it bothering you.

Stopped by Jim's shop yesterday to pick up two more screws. He has the latest Petzl Laser and Grivel Americano if you want to check them out. Personally, I like the feel of the 360s the best. Anyway, he's working on a list of sale items, their prices, etc., and he'll let us know when he's ready.

NWMJ: http://www.mountaineers.org/nwmj/submissions.html

Sorry, my parents are in town. Otherwise I'd go with ya.

I'm clearly biased on my interpretations of the debates. But I was laughing my ass off during them. Cheney: We never attacked Kerry's military record. [No, they hired thugs to do that.] Cheney: I've never seen Edwards until today. [see picture elsewhere on this thread] Edwards: 90% of coalition casualties are Americans. Cheney: Why are you demeaning the Iraqi participation? [wtf? Complete non-sequitur by Cheney.] Edwards: The so-called coalition today is nothing compared to the coalition of the 1990 war. Cheney: There were 36 countries in the coalition back then, and 34 now. [No France, Germany, Russia? Who does the USA have on their side? Vanuatu? Oh I forgot, Poland, who's going through NATO hazing rituals right now.] Cheney bashes Edward's record. Edwards bashes Cheney's record harder. Cheney says, "I think the facts stand for themselves." Edwards bashes Cheney and Haliburton. Cheney says he needs more than 30 sec. Gwen says that's all you got. Cheney mumbles some crap about how all the charges are unfounded. Edwards praises Cheney's acceptance of his daughter's lifestyle and accuses Bush of polarizing this country on the gay marriage issue to win votes and to smokescreen other issues where the administration is struggling. Cheney thanks Edwards for the kind remarks to his family but otherwise has NO rebuttal.

Going from Squid's list, the first pieces I'd drop would be #00 and #0 cams (they're not full-strength pro). Unless the route description suggests it, you could probably drop the #10 cam. A more precise route description may say only pro to 2.5" or 3", in which case you could leave behind more large cams. But the reason why Squid listed all that is because they'll more than likely be useful at some point, and they're cheapest as a set.

Double slings are useful in the alpine, both for slinging natural pro and reducing ropedrag from wandering pitches. As for rack weight, it's sort of silly to ask others (no offense intended). It all depends on rock climbing skill, willingness to take risk, etc. For an alpine route that's low-5th, I might not bring more than a few nuts and tricams and a #7 hex. For a harder route, I'll bring more. How many slings to bring? How many pieces of pro do you want to place per pitch? Or do you want to bring more so you can simul longer? The best way to figure it out is to try something, see how it works, and then adjust.

That depends -- did those other parties have third-party timers?

1) A party of three let us pass on Serpentine on DTail one time, but only when the terrain eased (after the 5.8 pitch above the pillar). We waited for at least two hours before they let us pass. We didn't drop a single thing onto them once we were above them. But that's all I want to say about your sticky question. 2) Nope. I tell them that I don't think they're any faster than us, but we'll reevaluate on the next pitch. Also, in my opinion, one of the rudest things you can do on a route is to ask to pass, be given the pass, and then make the party you passed wait. If you pass, you better be damn well sure you can get out of their way in a hurry. And I've heard plenty of stories from friends who had gapers ask them to pass on Outer Space only to have my friends refuse, top out, walk down, and still see said gapers enroute.

Hans Florine passed seven parties in one of his sub-four-hour jaunts on the Nose.

I think it's rude to pass without asking first. I think it's rude to refuse to let an obviously faster party pass at the next decent belay.

I pretty much agree with AlpineK's sentiments.

The haiku starts well, then six instead of seven. What a disaster!

Was Dean Potter the one who was filmed taking that big whipper while climbing some 5.13 sandstone route? Anyone know the fall factor and/or pro? My guess is that fall at least anecdotally contradicts the theory expressed in the paper (which I have not had time to read critically, and probably won't have the time for at least another week).

I would love to hear the conversation if she said that to Coach.

Saw a good one the other day for all you astrophysicists out there: red sticker that says, "If this looks blue, you're driving too fast.'

which just goes to show how much you know about anything at all, since the candidates didnt in fact know the questions before the debate. duh. go back to shagging sheep and ranting about how lame we all are since we cant climb 5.13 like you, but stay out of politics! Actually you both are right. Though they did not know the specific questions of the debate, they knew the general topics that would be discussed. None of the questions asked should have been a surprise to either of them.