Bug

Mom?

The ex had the girls and the girlfriend was in AK. Kenp sold me his Rainier climbing pass so I had no excuses left. I got off the couch and into the car with all the aluminum I could gather. My fat ass wasn't hauling much steel anywhere. I hiked up Mt Ruth for something different and was glad I did. It added a little more up and down but it got me away from the crowds. Up and over Steamboat prow and down into camp about 1pm. Steamboat has some nice looking routes on it. You could protect it with fence posts and 30 ft runners easily. Keep your belayer under an overhang. At camp I slept and hydrated for a few hours and then started socializing. I had to find a twosome to hook up with and with my beergut I had to work fast so I didn't have to hold it in so long. No one wants to get dragged into a crevass by John Candy. There was a couple from Denver that took the line about how I used climb a lot. They put me in the lead as a bridge tester and only screwed their locking biners halfway. We got up at midnight after listening to Russian banter all evening. By 12:30 we were slogging. The 3/4 moon was out so we didn't need headlamps and an occasional meteor streaked by to keep us from getting lost in our navels. We passed a few partied here and there and ended up on the summit about 6:30. We wanted to get down before it warmed up much because I still hadn't lost much weight. There was a little balling on the crampons for the bottom 2000 ft but we only pass one bridge that caved in after we passed on the way up. It was a nice weekend. I didn't get many pics because my batteries froze. Besides, with my orange jacket I looked like a pumpkin.

Good pics. Thanks for posting.

We have new shoes. We will find you.

PM me if you are interested. I will move moderately fast. Watch out DH.

I have climbed the steep slab below the roof in all kinds of weather. There are many variations. Enjoy

Have no shame and enjoy your fish dinner. Flies didn't work except in the evening when anything works. They are deep the rest of the day and spinners are are the only way. Or save time and eat kittens. The best fishing is in the first four lakes after Snow lakes.

I climbed the W ridge a few years ago with no pack or rope and it was pretty doable as a semi relaxed pace. The climbing gets boring it is so easy. I traversed right well below LJ Tower and found some nice hand cracks and a few old bivies. Still only 5.6 or so and many choices at that. Descending the same way is pretty easy. If you go down the Cascadian and are going out Windy pass (Is that Windy pass over the fork on the Ingals?) trail or back up to Ingalls, travese right out of the CC down about 2/3 but just above the black tower to the right. It takes you down another gulley that is steeper and drops you on the trail up higher and directly across from Windy pass. Anyway, nice climbing. Have fun!

I am interested in one also. PM me if there are any left.

Scool. Cheers Kurt!

There are permit only sites at the meadows at Ingalls basin and there are outskirts to camp at without permits. But if you go down to the meadows at the base of Stuart you are outside of the permit area. No fires at any site.

I've been out of touch for awhile. Why is Alpinefox's Avatar pink? Oh well. The tallest face in the world before or after the glaciers are melted?

Found this on Craigslist. http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/174066666.html I won a certificate for a 3 day summit attempt of Mt. Rainier with RMI for anytime this summer, up until September 30. Unfortunately, I injured my knee and won't be able to make the climb. According to RMI, the certificate is completely transferable. The actual cost of this climb is $800. And I'm only selling it for $400

I like mine because I can strip it down to 2 lbs and still carry everything I need on a winter climb. It has lasted about 5 years now and will probably last almost that much more. If yours is in good shape, I might be interested.

Yes.

My forearms look like that. It's just that its all under an inch of fat.

Wow. The first time I met Dan Mazur was in Missoula in 81. He was looking for someone to help him learn how to climb. I was into the Bitterroot crags at the time and offered to take him along but he said he was more interested in snow and ice. I recommended that he move to WA or CO. The next time I met him was in Seattle at his K2 slide show. He and another guy had climbed it unroped and bivied way up there on the night after summitting. This guy was really into snow and ice.

Actually, I'm only bitter about the way you put down retards.

I'd climb it again. N Ridge in 2 days?

AK, you're more like a hemeroid.

Tough crowd. Especially for a bunch of posers. You don't have to trespass if you can cross the creek without the bridge downstream. Here comes the cat. Start your upwardness left of the main drainage in the first obvious gully that gets you above the first cliff band (up about 800 ft). Then traverse right sidehilling to the rocky bench in the bottom of the drainage (shouldn't have to lose any elevation except when you cross Rat creek). Follow the opening to its close and continue straight up through mellow trees and slabs. When you get to the Talus, bear left and gain the top of the slabs (there is only one easy way (obvious gulley)). Head right up the slabs and bear right to the top of the shoulder. From here traverse down a bit to the bottom of the alder patch where it is much narrower. Cross that and continue up to the base of the cliff. Follow the game path that goes right along the base of the cliffs to the top. Bring me a beer.

Right on AF

Rat creek takes you right to the sweet spot. YJ looks pretty good but I haven't been up it. I have done the Edwards Platuea route and Rat creek is faster. I know the route that will let you avoid all but two short bushwhacks. Must offer beer or carry both the rack and the rope to get the beta. This time of year it does require some trespassing.

Clip, clip, clip. Aid by yourself a time or two. Tie the rope into a boulder or three or set an anchor for an upward pull. Take out a few feet of slack (5 to 10) and tie a loop and clip it into locking biner #1 (on your harness). Aid up as high as you can. Let out another few (5 or ten) feet of slack, tie a loop in it and clip into locking biner #2. Unclip locking biner #1 and untie the loop. Repeat. Place lots of gear. in this case you are trying to get your system down so you end up doing it almost the same way every time. Place piece, test it, clip an aider into it, stand on it, unclip the other aider from the lower piece, clip it to the appropriate biner, climb up the aiders. Repeat. I like Index for this exercise. steep and good solid rock with nice Yosimite style cracks. When you like that exercise, set up a haul system and haul your pack up. Use a cut off milk jug over the knot on the pack to protect your rope. Take a fifi hook or you'll burn out in 30 minutes. Take a small hammer to gently bang on the end of your cleaning tool. Take jumars and learn to be efficient on them. Clean your own gear and force yourself to clean some zig-zags (hooks are nice for this part). Carry water. It ain't free climbing but in the rain it's a decent substitute and will keep you in shape. You will also hone your gear placing skills. Watch out for that tendency to hold onto the high caribiner too long without using the Fifi hook. Tendonitis is lurking.

This thread has outlived it's usefulness unless new information surfaces.