Farrgo

I've been using that same system... a heavy sock, a liner sock and superfeet for all my alpine trips. I've never gotten blisters or had any issues. For very cold temps and altitude I've been going with a vapor barrier as well. I used turkey cooking bags this year in Peru and it kept my heavy sock and boot liner dry. Also they've been very durable so far... I used one pair of turkey bags for several multiday climbs.

Check out Alpine Dave's website www.alpinedave.com. He has a description of how to make them.

I forget the exact specs and the tags have since fallen off. But it feels like ~8.1. Definately skinner than mammut's 8.5 doubles.

Various stuff for sale. All in good condition. Buyer pays shipping. Local pickup great. 30 meter half rope. Used only once. $30 MSR Pot $15 Climbing books, all in good condition. $5 each. Camelback $5 Black Diamond Ion Headlamp $5 Titanium Ice Screw. Used couple times. No falls (of course!). $20

Since your in Bozeman you should be able to get into the canyon and bum rides on your friends's tools. This is the best way to figure out what you like. If alpine isn't your game than I would look seriously at the reactors, fusions (if you ad hammers and laser picks), ergo quarks, and nomics. IMO these tools with fully ergonomic handles are less pumpy than retro-jobs and a couple of them are a huge step up in m-ability.

I had a good day on these about four years ago. Get before the snow hits because its probably the best ice you'll see in the immediate area this winter.

Alright, everything sold or pending except BD sling, MSR pot, and deadman.

Reach me at farrnr@hotmail.com. I probably won't check my PMs very often. Buyer pays shipping. -Nate A5 Double Portaledge w/ fly $350 Manufactured before TNF takeover. Used on couple walls in good shape. Scarpa Marathons 41.5 $40 Used three times, wrong size. Kong Angles $5 each One small, one large. Never used. BD Yosemite Hammer $40 BD Talong $10 Never used. MSR stowaway pot $10 SMC Deadman $15 Wall Hauler $5 Metolius Contour Double D sling $15 BD Zodiac Gear Sling $15

Bad ass

hyperspace?

I've tried a couple of the Vancouver walls. Not worth swimming through the hordes of 3 year/olds and soccer moms. Not even to mention that the walls really don't provide that much interesting or challenging climbing. You get more bang for your buck at the PRG or Stoneworks or Clubsport IMO.

http://www.rei.com/product/746019

REI Gaitors $5 Couple crampons holes MSR Pot 2L $10 Metolius Gear Sling w/ chest strap $15 Only used a few times. Thermo-fit liners $40 Size 10. Fit plastic climbing or tele boots. Cooked once, used only once. Red Chili Climbing Shoes $40 Fit Size 9.5-10 street shoe. Soles in good shape. Great for steep sport climbs. Primus Canister Stove $40 Has internal ignition mechanism. Like new. Comes with full isobutane canister.

I used leathers when I was there a few years ago. They were fine except on the high south faces, where I actually got a little frostbite. I'm going with plastics this time. I'm not sure what your objectives are but I would definately recommend plastics unless you plan on doing warm climbs.

I've used the whole plastic carton with zip ties rig. It works better than nothing at all but much worse than the manufactured models.

To elaborate on avalanche conditions. PC is a avalanche prone route and there is definately need be safe up there. It was quite warm the previous day. However, there was a freeze overnight followed by a cold cloudy day with no wind. So I'd say conditions were pretty good the next day. The day after Polar Circus we went up to look at Murchison falls and stood in the woods as avalanches/enormous spindriffs rumbled off the cliffs around the climb. Wouldn't have been on anything with avy danger that day. This time of year in the Rockies weather and conditions are very ephermal and you need to constantly aware of changing conditions. Of all the time I was up there, the day I was on PC was the only one I thought was acceptable for climbing in avy terrain.

Climbed it on Sunday. It's in great shape still. It starts getting sun in the early afternoon so start early.

Chad and I were the Oregon party. We got up to the base of the headwall but not with enough time to finish. Bring snowshoes.

Definately don't follow that. I keep all the hardwear with the picks. Haven't yet had the washer fail before the pick is toast.

I was down there a couple days ago. You can drive down the Cape Horn RD? Its the first road on the right (heading east) immediately after the upper tier climbs. However, there is a sign posted that says parking anywhere on this road is high discouraged (whatever that means). Probably the best strategy is to park further back and just walk along the rails like the guidebook indicates, might be a bit of a walk though.

Do you know Dave Goldring? He also lives in N. Bonneville and climbs.

There's plenty of ice out there. Just need to head out and do some exploring...

Linking all the spires at WA Pass in a day is a fun one.

OP came out with a new line of screws recently. I used there old ones (black hanger) and hated them. But there new ones (gold hanger) are pretty good, comparable with the BD screws.

I've never climbed Cooper Spur but I have gathered from others' experiences that, although not a technically difficult descent, it can be dangerous especially up high with bad snow conditions. I'm not sure how easy it would be to reach Cooper Spur from the North Face gullies. I thought it was odd because I initially assumed that they meant, upon summiting, they would descend the Cooper Spur if conditions were bad, which didn't make any sense. Other than the note on the car and the brief interaction my buddies relayed to me, I can't say anything that will benefit this discourse. That being said, let's hope this weather window gives the rescuers an opportunity to find all three of them safe and sound.