ian

I was on top of Monkey Face a couple years ago when a guy and his girlfriend climbed up another route. He made his girlfriend climb with his parachute. He then jumped off the opposite of the rapple side. It seemed like forever before we heard his chute open and then he was on the ground almost right away.

I agree. Her actions are juvenile. It seems to be legal, if you only vote once. As to whether or not it poisons the process for the rest us, I disagree. The process is already poisoned and corrupt (though better than smoke filled rooms).

good god man...grow the fuck up....FWIW i consider myself a libertarian...i will be voting for ron paul in the primary and prob LP in the general election

So Fairweather is calling someone a childish little bitch after he announces that he is going to go tattle on someone? Where I come from, the one that does the tattling is the little bitch. Fuck the two parties and fuck their gay-ass rules that tells me who I can or can't vote for.

So? It should still be my choice if I want to take that risk. It is not up to the cops to tell me when I'm not being "safe".

I'm all for people staying as long as they want (living) on public land...i'm just bummed about all the shit getting stolen...chances are the people living there didn't steal it but someone else did and now that they got kicked out by the police they are gonna be in an even worse situation

thanks for the update...i like staying at the state park except i really like having a fire a night...esp in nov it does appear from the Smith Rock thread that maybe sketchy people have moved back to the grasslands after the forest service kicked them out

Curious if anyone has camped here recently. Heard some news about people getting the stuff stolen and i'm wondering if anyone has camped here recently and left your stuff unattended while you climb? thanks

yea i don't ever use the runners when i'm belaying, i just use them either before the anchor is set up when i'm leading or to anchor myself when i'm rappeling.... even at 7-10kn that still seems like a lot to me--especially when i'm only using it to hang statically (its double what daiseys are) i'm more worried, i guess, about potential cuting when the runner is knotted.

i thought the problem was that the mammut runner was doubled back (girth-hitched) on it itself and the contact between itself caused the mammut runner to fail....i'm still not sure why...was it because Sherman was moving back and forth (horizontally) across the rock face, which would have caused a 'sawing' motion? or was it just the fact that since these runner have such a small diameter that the force of Sherman's weight was enough to pinch the mammut runner to the point where one part sliced through another?....the first way seems more likely to me...(maybe because i'm just in denial and don't want to believe how easy these slings can break)

thanks for the replys so far....i defientally don't plan on falling on these runners....in fact the only time the are weighted is at a hanging belay....i'm also not that concerned about the girth hitch part as this is the same as a an aid climbing set up....i am concerned, however, about the knots, as Selkirk pointed out, because they end up being quite small due to the small width of the runner and i wonder what the potential is for any 'sawing' action. i don't think the knots themselves weaken the runner that much....the runners start out at 22 kn and daiseys are like 3 kn in the pockets and people hang on those all the time....so the knot would either have to weaken the runner to less than a seventh of its strength or there is some kinda 'sawing' going on....

i've been using a double length dyneema runners (10 mm from wild country) knotted (with a figure eight) a couple of times and then girth hitched to my harness at the tie in point to use to anchor myself while setting up an anchor or rapple. the recent post about john sherman's anchor failure has made me a little concerned about this set up. I was curious if people thought that it was the sawing motion of the dyneema runner that was girth hitched to the other runner that caused it to fail (if this is the case maybe i don't have to be concerned?) or something else? would a figure eight knot present the same potenial for the sling to fail? thanks....

Thanks for the info....so would the route cross one of the Kone pitches or does it go above them? any ideas on how old the gear is?

Did the first two pitches the other day and saw that there were bolts continuing up from the top of the second pitch...anyone know anything about the upper pitches....in the new Whitelaw guide he mentions something about them but nothing concrete thanks....

I can anecdotaly back up this quote by Joseph from 10/13/05: "Again, anything is possible, but I'd still maintain that the bolts on the routes I've mention have, do, and will attract way more people that otherwise would never visit than the updates ever will." On our way down the trail on monday a kid stopped my and asked if their were bolts all the way to the top. I said no, that you had to use gear. the look on his face was a mixture of dissapointment and fear..... the parking lot was virtually empty on sun evening when we drove through and there was hardly anyone there on monday...defientally less than at 32/38 on a weekday we really enjoyed the 'adventure' aspect of the south east corner route and the grassy ledges were quite clean!! so thanks for the hard work!