Farrgo

Seems like you wouldn't. Would be slightly better training but less experience on downhill terrain. Best bang for your buck, besides riding the lifts, is still the south side.

You only pay for the permit during the summer climbing season, they just want you to get what one at other times. My initial understanding was that snowmobilers didn't have to get permits, but mabey it was just that they didn't and it wasn't enforced. I wouldn't be suprised if there was a double standard.

Chad, The top of the Glade is at the bottom of one of the lifts. So, to get to the Silcox from there you're going to have to ski through the area. I don't know that ski patrol really likes it, but I'm pretty sure you have the right to be there. Stay to the margins of the trail. It's obviously better to do it in a low volume day than say, the day after Christmas. FWIW I think the Glad trail might actually be a tad difficult to ski down if you're a new skier. As I recall, you're going to be forced to make some tight turns (for a newb) and there are lots of little dips that might feel uncomfortable. But there's only one way to learn, right?

My bad I guess everyone needs a permit above that elevation any time of the year. I haven't seen any stories which tell if these guys had permits.

Got on the monuments web site and there doesn't seem to be any restriction for where snowmobiles can go (besides wilderness and the N side of St. Helens). If there was snow I think they could go up to the summit without a permit because they're not "climbing."

Anyone else frustrated with snowmobiles "carte blanche" on the mtn. while everyone else is paying and permited.

Ha, ha. Glad to see the Mountain Surfs are still out and kicking. May they live forever!

If you can wait the books are actually cheaper and easier to get down in Huaraz. I ended up spending close to 50 bucks on the Frimer Huayhuash book stateside and could have gotten it for half that down there.

Not sure what it will be doing this weekend... but I've been hearing about lots and lots of wet slides from several people. Second that, go early. Also isn't Wy East even more avy prone than Leuthold's?

Anyone used one of these at altitude yet?

Ya, second that one. The distribution of use (10% ice) makes me think that ice climbing isn't very important. So it seems like you'd be better served by getting a boot that approaches and does the glacier thing well. I think its one of those situations where you can get something that has multiple function but it usually sucks at both, like the boat car.

I was on the E Ridge of the South Chamber earlier this year. It was pretty fun and moderate with a couple interesting steps. There were some really cool features like a full on snow tunnel and some cool chimney features. It was almost entirely rime and snow when I did it and that was January, its only been snowing more since then.

I've been battling similar issues on and off for several years now. I'm not a physician, but I'd guess more often than not forearm pain, in climbers, results mainly from overuse or muscular imbalance. If I have a flare up the first thing I'll do is rest it. After a while I'll start doing some excercises to reduce muscle imbalance by focusing on pronation, supination and extension. This usually works for me, but I always end up getting lazy with the warmup excercises and pain will flare up again. FWIW.

They taxis will stop at the checkpoints so you can go get a pass. The only place I've run into this so far is at the Llanganuco valley. One time in the Ishinca a couple guys were wandering around "selling" park passes but it looked very unofficial and sketchy. Unless your going to be in the Llanganuco I don't think you'll be paying for a pass.

As of last season it was not being enforced for non guided parties. I've heard rumors that foreign guided parties were being required to hire a Peruvian guide as well, but that was just rumor. I can't see them ever enforcing this rule. Unless you go through one of the road checkpoints you're not even forced to buy a park pass, let alone hire a Peruvian guide.

I've only had good experiences from these guys. Very easy to find coupons to get an 10-20% off. I've done multiple returns, exchanges, etc., nothing but good things to say. Although, I've never had to deal with backordering or price matching.

My bad, misunderstood that one. I'll add to conditions. Anything thats not in the sun is in great. All the field climbs look good. Pilsners not touching but the mixed routes are fun. Krohnenberg got climbed today. Nemisis and other routes on the Stanley have been climbed several times this week alone. Icefields and DTH had plenty of ice. Kitty Hawk is really fat right now. Come up to Canada and get your last fix of ice before a long summer.

If you're leaving one country your entering another. Still I've never been searched going into Canada and its usually the USBP that are the dicks, err, I mean guardians of our freedom.

It's gonna rain tomorrow. Anyone up for today? -Nate

Adding rubberized tape to the upper grip would help but I'm trying to keep these light for alpine climbing.

For a couple seasons I've been toying with different ways to modify my Quarks to add a matching grip. Here's whats worked and what hasn't. I tried a pipe hanger and hose clamp rig, taped up with rubberized electrical tape. The fit was pretty good and the price was right, but it was so flimsy that it would get bashed closed each pitch. Next, I upgraded to the large size Grivel triggers, fitted for my index finger. I initialy felt like the trigger helped me stay less pumped, but it interfered with my swing. Also, matching was a little complicated because you have to remove your index finger before gripping. I decided to move the triggers higher on the shaft to make matching easier. Unfortunately the only spot the trigger will fit is either right at the index finger or above the rubberized grip. So the trigger ends up being very high resulting in some horrendous pick shift. The other problem with this set up, is that the trigger is a very tight fit. My buddy actually cuts the padding and insulation out of his gloves to alleviate this problem. The system I'm running now, I saw on some tools down in Utah. You use the Grivel triggers, but cut off the trigger, turn it backwards and just use the plastic that covers the bolt for the grip. It's actually a very comfy grip and you can place it just above your hand, on the rubberized grip which reduces pick shift. Anybody else have modifications they use?

It's the first good weather in a long time. Anyone up for Ozone tomorrow afternoon? 360.903.7370 -Nate

Looking to do some bc skiing at Hood or just do some PDX rock climbing tomorrow (Sunday). -Nate

Do people ski Oschapalca? If so, that seems ridiculous... don't catch an edge.

Worn only 5-6 times. Size L, Wild Things Belay Jacket. $200 shipped.