Farrgo

If your leading WI5 and starting mixed skip the quarks and vipers go leashless. Get reactors, ergos, nomics, something along that line.

Which rope are you talking about? Last time I went, there were a couple. I haven't climbed too many of the routes but I've heard most climbs go at 9-10, then the steepest wall in the center of the face has three routes that go at 11ish, and I have to assume that the cirque is more like 12s.

I don't think very many people would be happy if I tried for the whole first pitch instead of the short anchors because it would involve aiders and a couple hours. Mabey I'll try it on a busy afternoon.

I'm actually talking about that stiffer bar (the one that they brought out for the new boots and to retrofit the older ones). Or have they brought out a newer bar system?

I've heard that the mega ice has had some issues. In particular, the steel shank acting as a lever and ripping the crampon out of the sole. Anybody else heard of this? Has anyone tried the Lowa Ice Comp GTX? They seem a little bulkier than other models, but also cheaper.

I second coca. Works like a charm.

Who has them? What type do you have? Anybody make their own? How do they work compared to manufactured ones?

Musashi? Good for a second I thought I overlooked a really good route at Rocky Butte!!

I can stay out late, yep parents just pushed the ol' curfew back to 9 o'clock! But, judging by this morning it looks, um, daunting to say the least. Mabey later in the week.

Cloud Cap parking lot closes as soon as your car cannot make it through the snow. Its not bad even if you have to start low at the trailhead to Tilly Jane though. Parking lot to tie in rock is about one hour and mabey that again to shrund? I guess it depends on how fast your moving and what conditions are. No fees for camping. It takes about 30-40 min to do the car shuttle, not bad at all.

What day I could Tomorrow afternoon or Tuesday or Thursday mornings?

Already asked, they've already got four people.

????

5.7 yosemite squeeze is going to feel much tougher then 10 crack for most people. Chimneys, squeezes, and off-widths require a far different skill set than most climbers develop. In general though I don't feel Yosemite has harder ratings than the NW. It all breaks down to the skills you have developed. If you climb a lot at Squamish you have probably developed techniques specific to slabby climbing. I climb easy 11 at Beacon, but then I've onsighted mid 11 at Indian Creek. I believe its simply because I've developed the skills which help me more at one area than another.

I can field this one I guess. All the rivers were fairly easy to cross with poles. We were worried about the Sandy because we would have to cross it right when it was flowing the most, but it was nothing more than a creek. It was also very easy to find the trail. The rangers have done a good job flagging and setting up cairns to lead you to the crossings and back to the trail.

Anyone want to climb today? Beacon, Ozone, Broughton, anywhere?

Sorry man, I'm not a chick. But, I do know a few people looking for climbing partners (also non-girls) if you're interested.

Holy shit, I figured you would have had enough after the Infinite Bliss thread!

"I'm really just looking for a girl 25-40 who'd like to go climbing with me." ---Aren't we all.

I think the climb should end at the Jill's Thrill station or its needs a little revamping. I tried to push through the second desperate crack, got about five or six feet above the first pin, fell and decked on the ledge below. If there is another pin up there, I was no where near it. It would have to be very clean before I gave it another go. That being said, next chance I get I plan on lowering in and doing a bit of gardening.

Can anyone tell me what's going on here? Can I tick it off or should I bring my pruning sheers and broom next time?

Could be wrong, but I believe WMI will recertify other recognized WFR programs. I know they did this about five years ago when a friend of mine recertified his WMA WFR through WMI.

Awesome pictures!

Ice in Washington, if it forms at all. Shows up in the late fall after a good storm and following cold temperatures, or in the spring with a good freeze-thaw cycle. Other than that, you wait for the snow to melt off and climbing alpine ice on glaciated peaks. We don't have anything like the U-Notch or V-Notch this time of year (that I know of). I think we have the same type of snow as California though? Sierra cement=Cascade concrete?

I climbed Fear of Flying last night to the old belay ledge, even with the rap station above Tooth Faerie. What happened to the desperate, two pin protected crack above there? Up to that point the route was clean and obviously well traveled but appears nobody has even attempted the upper section in years. Also as far as I could tell from my high point (about six feet above first pin), there is only one pin in this crack not two. What the deal?