Farrgo

I've had friends who will make their way down to L.A. and fly from there. Might look into flying to Lima and then busing it up to Ecuador, saved my buddy a couple hundred once. The blanca has plenty of steep to get on. When do you plan on going?

Only a 1-2 oz difference. I wouldn't worry about weight, or if you are, why not go really light with some Aztars. The cost/benefit all comes down to how much you climb. If you're going to get out a bunch, you'll enjoy the better tool. If you only going on a few trips a season, you'll probably not notice the difference.

ya i'll be there one way or another. riverside looks fun except for the jungle after halfway.

ya ill see you there. but i'll probably be drinking beer rather than doing the comp. that being said, anyone want to climb at beacon tomorrow before the ice fest?

As far as 2nd wind is concerned, I think it would be pretty problematic if that bolt broke. Would lead to a biggish fall sideways back into a dihedral. It looks like it would be a couple hard moves before and after the bolt. Bill its your route isn't it? What say you? Replace a bolt or not?

I figured that replacing any bolts would require some serious conversation with the SP. Maybe I just need to rack a couple brass ones when I try that line. Direct looks scary... definately a proud send for any would-be suitor.

Thanks again Joseph for all the work you put out there. IMO TF pitch one doesn't need anymore pins on it, especially after I dug out that new stopper placement. Second Wind looks pretty clean. I think it needs a new bolt on the traverse in from blownout. I believe there is a high and low traverse? One is protected by a button head and the other is protected by a very sketchy 1/4. Has anyone attempted a direct? Looks like it could be very technical rp work.

Happy hooking!

Ya I get it now. There were some fist jams on the first pitch, I think I used two #3s. I assumed it was just a random access pitch for the business up higher. Other than the first roof which is pretty strenous, I think this climb is quite a bit easier than Steppenwolf. Partially that might be due to the commitment factor on Steppenwolf. There are a couple cruxy areas where you really have to punch it between gear. Thanks for cleaning up a classic. This one needs to get climbed a lot more! I would be stoked if we could get more climbers off the Dod's area/Beacon tower/SE corner circiut and have some of these amazing lines get cleaned up and climbed more. I don't know why climbs like Bears in Heat (single best pitch at Beacon!), Steppenwolf, or Takes Fist don't get climbed more. They are certainly as high of quality as anything else at the rock. Has anybody taken a look at Second Wind (next to Blownout) that line is just begging to be cleaned up and climbed more often. So many lines that would be great if we just had enough climbers to keep them in shape.

Think I just got on this today? I agree with the hardest part of the first pitch being that insecure 5.9 section. However, I cleaned out a solid finger lock / stopper placement to protect it. On the second pitch I climbed from two bolts in a dark water streak with no webbing up for ten feet, traversed right under the roof, then up. Only thing was, I didn't use any of the #2 or #3's I brought with me. It never got bigger than #1 and was mostly #.4s. Where was I?

How about the Crumbling. There probably isn't one move on that harder than 11-. I can think of a 10a at Beacon that is more difficult.

Nope. Sold.

Quark Set This is one of the tools that I just happened to have taken a picture of. I will upload other images when the upload function works in the gallery again. Set up for leashless climbing with a pommel grip, a retrofitted upper matching grip and clip in point for an umbillical set up. The set up comes with an adze and two hammers pieces so you can go with or without an adze. Also comes with two quad picks (the T rated ones for mixed climbing) in good condition, two cascade picks (B rated for ice) in good condition, one cascade pick in fair condition, and two absolutely beat picks that are good for drytooling. One of the best ice and alpine tools around. $300.

Go back for more than a few hours and you'll see even more rockfall. Lots of holds, flakes, etc. ready to go. In particular, a key hold on the Left Shield Wall route, is loose and would definately ruin the belayer's day (and then the belayee's about half a second later) if it broke. Also, it would make the route the areas newest 5.12 and by that I mean 5.11.

I also don't use the swivel. It my experience it didn't keep the umbillicals untangled it just added an ounce or two to the set up. Secondly, I think they would be least useful on alpine routes in particularly where you are generally cruising up big features rather than mixing it up (I know depends on the route).

Probably will have better luck posting this on SummitPost.

just keep the rope secured with the lid... never has been a problem for me. or if you plan on going without the lid and can't fit the rope in the pack have your local shop sew one on... it should cost you $5.

Ice tools and rock shoes. They had demos to climb on last year so you probably don't need to bring some old beaters. If you haven't gone the comp is fun... or alternatively just drinking beer is argueably more fun.

Maybe its not as much of a problem as I thought here's a link about it http://www.alaskamountaineering.com/Product.cfm?id=156 . As far as the altitude issue, I guess it depends on how much your feet swell. I've never had my feet swell much at altitude so I don't factor that in much, my buddy however has his feet go up a full size. Its easier to make a boot thats too big fit than too small.

I wear the same size in all La Sportiva boots including the Nuptse's. One thing to keep in mind is that the toe box is tight... very tight. I tried on many pairs and found that no matter what size you get your toes will be pinched a bit. Also, I've read that the Nuptse liners are not meant to be replaced with intuitions... not that that means you can't or shouldn't, just what I heard.

This somewhat recent TR has some very pertinent picutres: Ruth Peak TR

Sorry. Leashes just sold.

44. Hexes sold.

Blue TCU and Red C4 sold.

Need to pay for school. All gear is used. Shipping at cost or arrange pickup. Scarpa Freneys size 44 $40. Would make great fruit boots but only have a little alpine/ice life left in them without a resole. La Sportiva Mythos 40.5 $60. These have been used on one climb only. The seams are seam-sealed and my initials are penciled in which sucks... unless your initials are NF. Trango Squid stick clip $20. Just not using this thing... you can have the pole too if you want to pay for shipping or arrange pickup. Climbing books $4 each. How to Climb 5.12 sold. Cams: Tech Friend $25. All others sold.