Farrgo

When I did TC this spring, I was definately thinking about the potential of freeing it. I'm not up to the chore, yet, but if someone was motivated and strong I think it would go. I'm kind of surprised it hasn't been sent yet, especially with so much of the route having fixed gear.

I got a pair of MEC softshells with leather palms, I believe they were about 30cad, Ive just them ice climbing a couple times and alpine climbing once, they work great.

Climb: Mt. Baker-Coleman Headwall Date of Climb: 11/11/2004 Trip Report: My buddy John and I left Bellingham at 6am and we started hiking at 7h30. The glacier was very firm and we reached the bottom of the headwall at 11h30. The route is in awesome condition. We started out on a 40m ice flow that was 3+/4. The whole headwall was either ice or very firm snow and we frontpointed up the entire thing. We top out just before sunset and after getting lost in the crevasse fields several times, made it to the car at 10pm. Stellar route. Gear Notes: 6 ice screws. 3 rapid runners. 2 screamers. 2 pickets. Could have used a couple more runners, the pickets could have been used in spots, although there was a bunch of ice and screws were the safer bet. Approach Notes: Almost no snow on trail or route. The past days of warm temps and sun have turned it to ice.

Just posted pictures of boots and bike in for sale gallery.

I know, I will lose some style points but I need new ski gear.

Scarpa T2 size 10 telemark boots (three buckle design). Used only one season. Bought them a size too big for my foot. Great shape, only scuffs on shell. Liner in mint condition. Also, classic Raleigh Proffesional Road Bike. Original Campi components, Brooks saddle, excellent shape. $225 obo for tele boots. $450 obo for road bike. Can email pictures. You pay for shipping or can arrange for pick up.

I definately agree, do some tr'ing until you understand how to swing effectively and efficently. Than either start doing really easy leads and build up or go out with people who can climb. I starting doing really easy three's a couple years ago and I'm finally starting to climb decently. It is definately quicker to go with people who know their stuff but that requires some networking.

Well not that there's any snow now but... they have a message up on their snow report which says they'll update it weekly starting Oct.1. It's Oct. 18 now, that's one hell of a week.

Ya, my dad was on the summit of Hood that same day. Pretty intense I guess. I would rather have been on Hood than Adams for sure, much safer.

The one at the MBT is only a sneak peak. The real show is gonna happen in Nov.

Ice Cold, I got quarks from them last season and they got them to me in like three days. just in time for a trip out to banff. this year i ordered a pair of double ropes from them and they said there was some delay or something for about a week. eventually i just cancelled the order and went to outdoor-walmart. not sure whats up with them this year.

007 I seriously hope you are kidding. If not I would suggest that you and your skilled partners write out their wills and say goodbye before you go. Altitude is a serious bitch. I have spent most of the last three weeks above 4000m with several days at 5 and 6 thousand meters in Peru. I am back at 3000m and have acclimatized to that height but if I try and run up some stairs I will be breathing very hard at the top. Going up to 6000 was a bitch, this was after two weeks acclimitizing. There is no chance I would go up to 8000 in just another seven days. There is no such thing as a walk in the park at 8000m.

I was up there a couple weeks ago. Can't imagine that crampons would help you, especially in this heat. I brought them, but didn't use them. An ice axe should suffice. Not sure of how Bill is telling you to approach. From the point on the trail where there is the sign for the Hannegan Camp, i took that trail and then went cross country for the base of the route. There is a faint, very faint trail at points through the heather. I found that it was very easy traveling this way. I met a guy on my way back down and he said folowing the trail instead of breaking off at the Hanegan camp was pretty miserable and descended via my route. I haven't personally gone the other way so I can't say. Although if you try one way and don't like it go back the other.

Ok, I just did Town Crier a few weeks ago. You are definately going to need something equivalent to a black/purple alien to get through the flared crack. Right off of the hanging belay there are a couple pretty good nut moves than there is this flaring pocket and a piton above that. My buddy tried to jam in a blue alien, it popped and he went sailing. I got on my top sub steps and still was about a foot short of reaching the pin. Eventually we taped two nut tools together and made a stick clip which still just barely reached. So either bring a small alien or stick clip, or go home i guess. Other than that the gear is all very standard. By the way has anybody ever free climbed town crier? There are some sections that look hard, but not too hard.

Luke, are you just going for the day because I got to work at 10 AM on Monday.

I agree, I know climbers who have a decent amount of experience and have fallen off that layback.

Liked to get in the alpine somewhere near Bellingham. Mabey Baker. Could leave tonight or just do a day trip tomorrow. Reply or email me at farrnr@hotmail.com

Just was up there yesterday. The road is indeed washed out. However, Thursday at midnight when we reached the trail for the approach to the Nesakwatch Spires a couple were coming down and they had made it past the washout. How they did it amazes me, I must have spent 20 minutes just looking at their tracks rocking over the massive washout. So if your bold (crazy) and have a jeep I would say rock it and you could most likely get past the washout, or just bring your bikes. Hats off to whoever we ran into the other night. PS the Enchainment of the spires and Rexford rocks.

I've heard that there is a road washed out for the slesse approach, which is near the nesakwatch spires approach. doest that affect the approach to the spires. thanks in advance.

i think that oyster dome, technically is in the state park??? but considering the approach, you could probably just drive to mt. erie and still get more climbing in.

I think that car-to-car on this route is very doable. assuming that you have an idea of where your going and can simul-climb basically all of the pitches other than the great gendarme. just leave really early and hit the glacier at first light.

$45 obo?

I was thinking of heading up on one of those routes with a buddy thurs, fri, or saturday. what is your experience level like. looking at the weather report, it doesn't look all that great for this weekend. fri, or sat might be good though. i'm sure really gung ho to get one something out here, seeing that you flew out from ??? i'm getting on something alpine this weekend, i just need to be back sat night for a wall i'm doing on sunday. let me know if your interested in heading up to baker or something else. nate

So when y'all thread through the chains, do you mean that you just pass the rope through the chains i.e. if one link were to break your rope would not be connected to anything? Personally I have and will always thread through two of the chain links and then lower. I read a story somewhere of guys who just threaded through (over) the chains, a link broke and they fell into space.

I've seen plenty off and climbed on a bunch of boulders up in the alpine. Unless you have a specific area your going to which you know has some good bouldering, I wouldn't bother with your pad. Although, I've seen some pretty small pads that are about half the size of a normal crash pad which might be worth it if you don't mind the baggage. One area in particular that I though had some promise for bouldering was Glacier Basin? below East Wilman's Spire, above Monte Cristo.