Farrgo

Failure Thread

Since were talking about obscure choss piles anybody climbed the Rabbit Ears on Table Mtn?

I'm a little confused about the umbilical. Why does the webbing bunch if its equal parts webbing and shock cord? How do you attach your tool to the umbilical? With a biner? Doesn't this get annoying as it smashes around with every swing?

Here's the tool after its all finished This is what the trigger looks like. Only the screw part of the hose clamp is exposed after taping. It's important to put a couple layers of tape beneath the hose clamp as well or else you can damage the soft rubber on the Quarks grip.

The bigger one will, I forgot the color (black perhaps). Of course Grivel sells those for $25 a piece. I got a hose clamp and a pipe holder from the hardware store and made the same deal for $3. I just covered it up with rubber splicing tape and voila, I saved myself $47 duckets.

You can read many many discussions about the pros and cons of ice tools on this board. It also seems to come down to this advice, try a bunch of different ones before you decide. So make your buddies take you serac-ing and try out there tools. If your going to do a Banff trip, I know Mountain Magic has a great rental deal, they'll let you try different tools each day and then you can apply that toward a purchase. They have just about every type of tool as well.

Anyone want to elaborate on how to make homemade fruit boots? Do you use t-nuts to attach the screws? How much rubber should one take off to lighten boots up?

I think it would be worth the trip if you had the right conditions and the cojones because its steeep and narrow.

I've heard that you can put the hammers and picks from cobras on the fusions and they will climb ice really well. I haven't done this because I bought the tools for their drytooling performance and don't want to diminish that. Also, Roger Strong said at the PDX ice fest that the new microhammer from the Reactor is interchangeable and will go on the fusions. Its got something like 150g? of weight, so it would be a nice middle ground between nothing and a full blown hammer. One thing that helped me get better sticks with the fusions was to hold the upper handle (above the handle) and swing from there. You lose a lot of reach but it seemed so much easier when I was pumping out. I read on Will Gadd's sight that he recomends putting your thumb on top of the handle to help direct the swing. I've heard this works but haven't personaly tried it.

Someone might know this. Has that couloir between Rexford and the closest spire been skied? It's looks incredible, but its also probably rediculous to get there in the winter.

Bump... I'm hoping the precip is doing good things.

Fog of War is pretty good and you can find it at almost any video store.

So I know that I'm going to get flamed on. "It's only October...," "If you don't like the weather move...," etc... But, I can't help it. Lets get some new pics up to the stoke the ice climbing flames. I'll be on the chilly this Thanksgiving and I need something to get me through all those pullups in the meantime. So lets get it started right! Secret Probation, Vail, CO Weeping Wall Right, Icefields Parkway, BC Esmerelda, Vail, CO

Arc, I hear ya. I just talked to one of my buddys from Summit Co. He went skiing a few days ago at A-Basin. I'm sure its not great and is still mostly groomers, but it 100% more skiing than I've done. I'm already $1000 in the whole for skis and a pass this year! I just want to rip some turns.

There's no need or reason to add to duplicates to your rack until you have at least singles. It looks like your staying pretty minimalist with your rack so I'd second everyone else, get a .75 or .5. Those are very versitile pieces. Then work your way up. Although I have doubles up to BD #4. I rarely need them. In fact I only take one #3 most of the time. Get a single set of cams from finger sized to hands ~#2/#3, then start filling it out with doubles. I went for doubles in fingers initially because those pump me out the fastest, whereas I feel like I could hang on for a day while I wiggle in a hex.

Hail John and Marcus! It was incredibly generous that the Portland Rock Gym to offer the venue. Especially the gym employees who were working hard all night and the next morning vacuming shreded wood chips and spilt beer. Can't say enough about it. But, it certainly beat shivering at Rock Butte with some tikas (and in keeping with the Butte, some black tar heroin instead of Full Sail brews. I'm already looking forward to next year.

Anyone want to get in a few pitches at Beacon? I could be there at 2h45 and climb until dark... Not going to be too many more days like today this year!

What is the idea that if you could possibly take a 30 foot whipper than it is for hardmen only? Or that if there is one mangy bolt on a climb again for hardmen only? Ever climbed above marginal pro? Have you ever climbed above anything at all! Falling is part of climbing. Some routes are light on the bolts and that means climbers aspiring to that grade should work on other routes until there skilled enough to send without falling on manky bolts or in the runout sections.

Mabey this is the 5.10 climber's 5.8? There are many climbs which I could do, but probably could not do safely as they have difficult protection and if I am climbing at my absolute limit, putting in good pro is often neglected. Here's one for you, climb at your level on ground which is below your level when its hard to protect and climb harder when its easier to protect. Kevbone, simply being the first ascensionist doesn't place you beyond blame. If you don't believe me look at the recent Erie bitchfest or Infinite Bliss thread (oh ya I forgot).

Bring the biggest tri cam for the OW - or just man-up, its short and not hard - Then you can rap off a horn from the summit and flip off the sling with the ropes.

Nice TR. I second the car-to-car option. When I did it we sacked out at the trailhead (at the end of the logging road) but then easily approached climbed, descended, and made it back to the cars with lots of daylight. Wouldn't be too tough to just fire it in a day.

Isn't Sagittarius only moderate because of the short anchors, doesn't the full pitch go at a much harder grade.

I would be weary of November conditions if we get enough snow to cover crevasses but not adequatley bridge them. You'll be coming down on silverettas with climbing boots? I would be very scared of taking a uncontrolled plunge on that set up.

Why does anyone care about giving out beta for Young Warriors? Everyone knows about this route anyhow. Go to Beacon on any busy day and invariably Cruisin, SE Face, and YW will have parties on it. Last time I was there there were two parties waiting at the base. Give it up, its not a secret route.

My buddy's love the Newton, but yep, they fall apart. I've given up on five ten also. Its gotten to the point that I can't even break in a pair of there shoes before they disintegrate. What about something like the La Sportiva Focus, I've heard lots of good things about that shoe.