Farrgo

All of these recent threads about equipment failures, whether it be aliens or dynemee, has gotten me thinking about the actual nuts and bolts of why stuff is, or isn't, working. Does anyone know of a good book on climbing physics for someone who has little or no physics knowledge. Keep in mind that I have read the Climbing Anchors book 1000 times and understand simply concepts like how and why an anchor is equalized. Still, some of the posts used terms I'd never hear

Snow level is really f'ing high right now. At about 8k. However its going to drop to 4k by tomorrow night. I'm hoping to rip some turns this weekend.

I knew this would catch on eventually. If I can't have ice near me than I need some pics at least! Redstone, CO Haffner Creek, BC

This is "the" backcountry tele set-up, extremely light, all around package.

I would second that swinging from the knee down. When the ice gets really poor, and more verticle, I try to imagine my knee as a hinge and that my thigh is fixed. If you do this and come at the ice with the heal really low, you can really engage your secondary points and feel quite secure.

Ya blownout is incredible, sustained great climbing. If you kick it up solid 10, I think blood, sweat, and smears is incredible. Long and techy, especially the pro.

Ya, you guys are all dicks. So what if she looks like she stumbled out of a JCrew ad? She can climb. Now if you'll excuse me, I have to try on my technical goretex xcr banana hammock, and then send some wicked sick problems broham!

It's been a weird year. I started mixed climbing. Took the summer off from rock climbing. Got a job, went back to school, only got in a few alpine climbs. Successes: Climbed nearly all 10s at Beacon Rock (I love living close to it) Climbed m7 Climbed Wi5+ Defeats: Got shut down on Free For Some several times, never have finished it. Couldn't pull last few moves of Amphibian after working it for a month.

Wa Trad: Free-For-All-Dod's-Dastardly Linkup Wa Sport: Heaven's Gate

Not that I've done New York Gully but I'd imagine you experienced conditions similar to that climb. Mostly dry climbing, with turf sticks, and if your lucky a little ice.

I wouldn't recommend nabing your autoblock sling for the last piece before an epic runout. Probably best that this one gets left just for an autoblock or racking gear. I have a couple slings dedicated to just such a purpose. Also, consider using cord instead of a expensive sling for your autoblock. It will work just as well and you can cut it for the correct weight. Mtn. Freak was showing me how he cuts the cord and then keeps it on his leg loop so its ready when its time to rappel.

I've done the same thing too, for years. I think there needs to be a lot more research done about the limitations of spectra type materials. Everyone know that knots reduce the strength, but the reduction is relative to the material. We don't worry about a figure-eight reducing a rope to failure. Should we worry about spectra runners strength reduction when knotted? As for girth hitching to your harness, I would highly doubt that simply using a dynemee runner girthed to your harness would put it in a situation where failure is likely. I mean they make daisy chains out of spectra/dynemee/etc. and you girth those through your harness does this mean aid climbing set ups should be suspect?

Isn't it pretty cold up there? I always remembered those creeks freezing up and forming some rambly ice climbs.

Looks like a combination of the strike and a hose clamp?

The origination of the saying, "I've got a woodie?"

Have any pics?

The same thing happened with my quarks. Actually I taped them, just not enough, and it blew through. Don't worry though, after a few years I don't even notice the constant rattle... I have developed a twitch though.

I haven't been up there this year but I remember some very deep crevasses low down below Mirkwood on the flat area of the glacier before it drops off into the valley. Are these gone as well? If so, just remember -no such thing as global warming-.

I don't know the specifics but I've heard British Columbia offers many more kickbacks for movie production companies than the U.S. This is why basically every movie is filmed there. I agree though, its all marketing.

After living in summit county for a season I would have to question the "boosting" of a local economy by building a ski area. Sure it will bring in a lot more revenue on paper, but pretty much anyone who lives at resorts has a second home, is rich and retired, etc. Most of the property and businesses are owned by by out-of-state corporations. The money always seems to flow out than in. Add that to the skyrocketing property value and you have a wasteland where the "locals" must move to a different county and commute in, or work 80 hours a week and live like a bum to make it.

Atlas work gloves are only $4 and they perform really well, you don't care if you lose them or ruin them either. You can get an insulated version which will keep you warmer.

Do any of those other cracks go, or are they an illusion?

Its true that you can generate some force while rapelling. And, since we weren't there we don't have really any idea of what he was doing. But we are talking about rapelling which still generates much much less force than a lead fall. I don't know about everyone else but I girth hitch trees, knobs, flakes, tons of stuff when I alpine climb. I usually think that these features are pretty bomber pieces, now not so much. Mabey its time to just start bring lengths of cord and throw in a quick overhand instead of girth hitching runners that can't hold body weight plus a little tugging.

I had a buddy make a wall. He used a section of construction fence (the orange mesh kind) and suspended it between two mondo trees.

What does that mean? Of course its supposed to catch falls. But its at least interesting that these things have yet to fail in a lead fall situation but have failed in others. Perhaps there is somthing in the nature of the material which weakens it in some situations as opposed to others.