Farrgo

All Sold.

Turbo Express Screws used. Teeth are sharp. Tons of life left. 2 x 22cm 1 x 19cm 1 x 16cm $20 each

Plenty of brittle fragile ice at the Superhero area. Temps were in low teens F when we left the car... dare I say that for once... cold temps are the problem in the NW?

Those climbs are in condition for so much of the year... just wait for better snow conditions and get after it then.

How many tiers formed this year?

I've had a mountain hardware chugach jacket for years... can get it for under $100 right now. http://alpenglowgear.com/gear/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1176

Actually, that might be more than enough!

Beacon was COLD today!

Definately... you'll enjoy them. Jump on it.

Well ya. So this talk of walking of the trail is "ninja-style?" How bad is it to approach from Meadows?

I tried just about every possible trigger configuration with the quark. Both grivel triggers will fit on the quark, but the black will give you more options with where you want it. I've tried doing the piano match on the trigger side, but you need to remove insulation from your gloves, climb with very thing gloves, or your hand just doesn't fit. The solution I found was to use a hack saw to remove the trigger, flip it around, put the plastic screw guards on and use those as the second grip. Suprisingly, it feels very comfortable and is about as effective as the strike.

Have i missed something isn't the area closed to anyone... not just the road to cars?

The camp biners are the nano wires. At home they don't seem like they will flip over the pommel but if you plunge just a couple times they flip over. It happened to both of my tools after just one or two plunges.

Just clip the umbillicals into your tools with a biner. If your tools don't have a clip in point you'll have to make one by drilling/threading a cord through. It's easy with the quarks, I don't know with the old cobras... can't remember what those look like. A FYI do not use nano wires to clip into new BD tools. They are just big enough that they can slip over the pommel and just small enough that you can't get them back off. Had to climb first pitch of the season on the upper handles... lame. I now use superfly's which easily flip over the pommel and easily flip back. It doesn't seem like a problem at home... trust me it is.

Anybody have problems with ice clippers breaking in extreme cold? I know John's snapped off on GCC but sounds like there were extenuating circumstances. I've used mine down to -40 with no problems but have only done that one day. Anyone refuse to use ice clippers in alpine? I've never had too much trouble racking on biners but ice clippers are definately an easier cleaner way to rack.

At least you guys got another climb out of it. My understanding of this route is that it really doesn't take much to make it a go.

So did you guys just eye this route from the Dorado-Eldorado col? Those guys give you info on the condition as they walked all the way to the base? Not bad weather for late October.

That thing has been climbed at least once more this season than has been reported here. Followed footsteps on the walk-off... Definately a picket could be used on each pitch, beats ice tool belay. Given the good weather, I anticipate a cc.com blitz this weekend.

Tom, Did you come at Colfax from Pumic Ridge? It seemed like there were more footsteps coming off Colfax than I saw on the way up to the N Face.

That's three "long" pitches of ice. Just goes to show an addict will do anything for a fix. CC - I was wondering who was behind us. I snapped a pic of you guys as well, I might not come out though because the sun was directly behind Colfax at the point. I'd love to see it, if you want to load it online.

Trip: Colfax Peak - Cosley-Houston Date: 10/19/2008 Trip Report: Climbed Cosley-Houston with Chad A. Route is in good shape. Climbed it in three pitches, one ~70m pitch to the top of the first pillar, another long pitch to the top of the second pillar and a long simul-pitch to the top. Nothing but water ice and neve. Climb would actually be several pitches longer but we simuled when needed to the top of the pillars and simuled the top pitch. Conservative estimate if fully pitched out... 6-7 pitches. Polish Route looks like it needs more time. The upper curtain and upper pillar appear to not be formed together. Certainly looked WI6 with possible mixed climbing on the uber-solid rock of the black buttes. Gear Notes: Brought 9 ice screws, used 7. Brought three pins, three stoppers, two small cams. Used one cam, one pin, one stopper. Could use a picket, but can definately get by without it.

Anyone been on Baker north side recently? Seen Colfax? Pictures?

Anybody getting out this afternoon? Could be the last great day of the season.

Coleman headwall often has a Wi4 pitch at the base late in the fall, making it a little bit more interesting.

I'm not sure the first pitch is 5.9. The last 20 feet before the bolts is pretty hard. Both time I was wishing those bolts had been put in a few feet lower so you don't have to do the sketchy stem to snag them.