Farrgo

FYI I guess the Blanca rules that got introduced last year are being enforced this year. Join the AAC.

There is sooo much snow this winter... a couple of days in the 90s will hardly make a dent.

I think all the upper anchors on Jensens ridge are old. Of course mabey its just hard to find them in the poison oak.

I'll be there.

I love Beacon but it doesn't quite match up to Index or Squamish. Mostly thats because those areas have 10-1000x the amount of climbs. Pitch for pitch Beacon is as good of value as any area around. If you can climb 11a, you'll be busy for many weekends.

I'm trying to climb at Ozone Tuesday afternoon. I can be there by 2. Should be great. -Nate

There really aren't that many good areas around bellingham (within 30 minutes). Erie is just far enough that you're not gonna run out there for a few laps. Larabee stuff is fun for a bit, but you'll burn out there soon. Governor Lister cliff has some routes, but there not all that impressive. Sehome Hill has bouldering. Aside from those you could hit up the Bat Caves, but that's pretty much a day trip, or Baker Crags.

IMO the new cobras are the best alpine tools on the market right now. They're lighter than quarks, perform at the same standard, and the pick drop is more condusive for lower angle alpine ground (albeit at the expense of hooking). That being said I still use quarks, with the grip rest. I've never found any reason to take it off, if the snow is hard enough that you can't plunge with it, than its hard enough to use high dagger position. Also, I really like the umbillical set up. One bonus of this system that isn't talked about enough is that you will never drop those tools when there hanging around at belays, clipped to your harness on rappells, etc.

Has anyone done any of the traverses down there Pallisades, Evolution? Worth doing if you just had a week there? Is it even possible to get a Whitney permit if you haven't reserved one way in advance?

Seems like you wouldn't. Would be slightly better training but less experience on downhill terrain. Best bang for your buck, besides riding the lifts, is still the south side.

You only pay for the permit during the summer climbing season, they just want you to get what one at other times. My initial understanding was that snowmobilers didn't have to get permits, but mabey it was just that they didn't and it wasn't enforced. I wouldn't be suprised if there was a double standard.

Chad, The top of the Glade is at the bottom of one of the lifts. So, to get to the Silcox from there you're going to have to ski through the area. I don't know that ski patrol really likes it, but I'm pretty sure you have the right to be there. Stay to the margins of the trail. It's obviously better to do it in a low volume day than say, the day after Christmas. FWIW I think the Glad trail might actually be a tad difficult to ski down if you're a new skier. As I recall, you're going to be forced to make some tight turns (for a newb) and there are lots of little dips that might feel uncomfortable. But there's only one way to learn, right?

My bad I guess everyone needs a permit above that elevation any time of the year. I haven't seen any stories which tell if these guys had permits.

Got on the monuments web site and there doesn't seem to be any restriction for where snowmobiles can go (besides wilderness and the N side of St. Helens). If there was snow I think they could go up to the summit without a permit because they're not "climbing."

Anyone else frustrated with snowmobiles "carte blanche" on the mtn. while everyone else is paying and permited.

Not sure what it will be doing this weekend... but I've been hearing about lots and lots of wet slides from several people. Second that, go early. Also isn't Wy East even more avy prone than Leuthold's?

Anyone used one of these at altitude yet?

Ya, second that one. The distribution of use (10% ice) makes me think that ice climbing isn't very important. So it seems like you'd be better served by getting a boot that approaches and does the glacier thing well. I think its one of those situations where you can get something that has multiple function but it usually sucks at both, like the boat car.

I was on the E Ridge of the South Chamber earlier this year. It was pretty fun and moderate with a couple interesting steps. There were some really cool features like a full on snow tunnel and some cool chimney features. It was almost entirely rime and snow when I did it and that was January, its only been snowing more since then.

I've been battling similar issues on and off for several years now. I'm not a physician, but I'd guess more often than not forearm pain, in climbers, results mainly from overuse or muscular imbalance. If I have a flare up the first thing I'll do is rest it. After a while I'll start doing some excercises to reduce muscle imbalance by focusing on pronation, supination and extension. This usually works for me, but I always end up getting lazy with the warmup excercises and pain will flare up again. FWIW.

They taxis will stop at the checkpoints so you can go get a pass. The only place I've run into this so far is at the Llanganuco valley. One time in the Ishinca a couple guys were wandering around "selling" park passes but it looked very unofficial and sketchy. Unless your going to be in the Llanganuco I don't think you'll be paying for a pass.

As of last season it was not being enforced for non guided parties. I've heard rumors that foreign guided parties were being required to hire a Peruvian guide as well, but that was just rumor. I can't see them ever enforcing this rule. Unless you go through one of the road checkpoints you're not even forced to buy a park pass, let alone hire a Peruvian guide.

I've only had good experiences from these guys. Very easy to find coupons to get an 10-20% off. I've done multiple returns, exchanges, etc., nothing but good things to say. Although, I've never had to deal with backordering or price matching.

My bad, misunderstood that one. I'll add to conditions. Anything thats not in the sun is in great. All the field climbs look good. Pilsners not touching but the mixed routes are fun. Krohnenberg got climbed today. Nemisis and other routes on the Stanley have been climbed several times this week alone. Icefields and DTH had plenty of ice. Kitty Hawk is really fat right now. Come up to Canada and get your last fix of ice before a long summer.

If you're leaving one country your entering another. Still I've never been searched going into Canada and its usually the USBP that are the dicks, err, I mean guardians of our freedom.