sayjay

Back to the top... Sounds like enuf of you are happy w/ last week's declaration so I'll repeat it: THIS WEEK'S PUB CLUB WILL BE AT THE BALLARD GRILL AND ALE HOUSE on Leary Way! (sorry chucK, but s'not looking like sunny and 80's for tomorrow...and dan, try and show up anyhow! just a short trip along the b.g. to ballard from montlake...)

freeclimb (and others): don't confuse glaciers (and thier behaviour/what makes them go away) with ice shelves. glaciers are formed by the accumulation of snow on land in regions where there is snow/ice cover year round. they can be depleted by either by warmer temperatures (snow melts) and/or a decrease in precipitation (less snow accumulates) ice shelves (such as the one that just split off the Ross Ice Shelf) are frozen sea water and their existence does not depend on precip rates. the lowering temps in central antarctica are not evidence that anthropogenic greenhouse gases aren't causing a GLOBAL warming. in fact, the models predict this. because of a change in atmospheric dynamics and because of the differing effect greenhouse gases have on the lower atmosphere (warming) versus the stratosphere (cooling) we expect that the main/central part of antarctica will cool, at least initially. the coastal regions on the other hand are expected to warm. both of these temperature trends are being seen. the breakoff of the ice shelf is consistent with the warmer coastal temperatures. like you said: ride your bike...

quote: Originally posted by Winter: I ain't no pyshicistist either, but isnt' it: Force = Mass * Velocity Velocity = Acceleration * Time quote: Originally posted by Greg: I made it out of engineering school on a wing and a prayer, but I remember a couple things. F = Mass * Acceleration, where "Acceleration" is gravity, g=32.2-fps/s during a climbing fall. So, the longer the fall, the more time you spend accelerating and the greater the impact force once you stop. Rope stretch would be a factor, as well, as it absorbs some of the force generated. Greg's got it right- F=M*A, where A=acceleration due to gravity=change in velocity with time. What matters here is the time-integral of the force, which is called the IMPULSE, and this is equal to MASS*CHANGE IN VELOCITY. Since your initial velocity was zero, here it's just MASS*VELOCITY (i.e. your momentum...). So yes, the longer you fall, the greater your velocity and the greater the impulse force. However, Greg's also correct that the force you put on the piece/bolt will depend on how much of the force of your falling body is absorbed by the stretch of the rope. In a very short fall, there is less rope to stretch and absorb the force so the piece/bolt takes almost all of the impulse force. In a really long fall, you've accelerated for longer and your body has a greater impulse force, but a larger fraction of that is taken up by rope stretch. That's why we climb with dynamic and not static ropes... So there's some ideal fall length (not too short, not too long depending on the rope and your size) where the rope stretch optimally counteracts your extra velocity and the piece takes a minimum load. (Note that WORK=FORCE*DISTANCE comes into play when you realize all the WORK you gotta do climbing back up to where you fell from ). Any of you that have read all of this and are still awake are even more of a geek than I am.

thanks, yall. that's about what i'd expected. i've done the day trip up through the burgundy col to climb silver star but hadn't really scoped out the camping possibilities. i like the idea of going to the other side of the col and getting outta the wind and near snow -- just the beta i was looking for! the hike up is a bit of a burner, but it looks like the climbing is well worth hauling the gear up for. and at least you get the altitude gain over quickly, eh? sarah

Yo Steamer: Don't you be dissin' Alpine K! ALPINE K ROCKS! HAVE A GREAT TRIP! WE'LL MISS YA!

Along the same lines, I'd like to do a number of routes on the wine spires later this summer. I was thinking of setting up camp below Burgundy. Is there a reason why you wouldn't want to camp there for a couple of nights?

The man has spoken! I didn't get out climbing last weekend and am having major risk-withdrawl, so I'm going to make the bold move of declaring: THE NEXT PUB CLUB WILL BE AT THE BALLARD GRILL AND ALE HOUSE on Leary Way!

is the sloop the place right across the street from stone gardens? if so, looks small...will it hold 30 rowdy climbers?

All the real beta is given at Pub Clubs...

that's true, will's right, for southside you probably are fine. though the one time I used strap-ons with standard kinda leather boots I found that for them to stay on very well I had to cinch them down such that the circulation in my feet wasn't so good any more... like will said, tho, if you take the boots in to the rental shop you should be able to try the cramps on with your boots and get some good advice-- HAVE FUN!

Depends on how rigid the soles are, and if the crampons are strap-on... Probably a good idea to rent the boots as well.

quote: sk: ... frankly if some looser can't handle a fucking friend than he is a looser. I think she was talking about fucking a friend, not "a fucking friend". Or do you really think that any guy that won't sleep with any female friend is a loser? quote: sk: Having the relationship that you want is possible. Just be clear, set limits, and keep looking and asking. Besides the chase is half the fun ???Sweet advice, but it sounds like beta for finding a husband, not for getting your climbing partner to hop in the sack with you...

I also meant no offense -- but I did find the original post a bit puzzling! No harm meant... I just agree w/ Mattp that the guy sounds a bit nervous about the seriousness of the endeavour, and if he really is a 5.11 climber he should fly up this route.

(um, yeah, have to admit i had the same reaction, matt! perhaps he's climbing consistent 5.11 in the gym???) [ 05-09-2002, 09:16 AM: Message edited by: sayjay ]

Hey boys n girls, What say we start the debate on next weeks' PC venue, eh? I thought the Ballard Bar n Grill on Leary worked really well... or should we move it around? (PC is in Seattle this week, right? So can we just keep the argument down to where IN SEATTLE PC will be?) Okay, let the games begin!

Selected Climbs in the Cascades: Alpine Route, Sport Climbs and Crag Climbs Jim Nelson & Peter Potterfield Also, of course, the Fred Beckey guides to Cascade Climbs- Also, the Ingalls Lake basin area is GORGEOUS. While you can easily do this climb as a day trip I would *highly* recommend spending the night. And I agree -- go midweek. It can be a zoo up there on the weekends. HAVE FUN!!! It's a fun climb. [ 05-09-2002, 08:49 AM: Message edited by: sayjay ]

Hallelujah! Sing it again brotha'...

lambone, i agree with you that this whole gig is minor-league compared to the bigger problems of the world -- but that doesn't mean it should be ignored. your contention that we're pissed just cause this guy was just doing his job is way wrong. there are two problems here: 1) the trail park permit system 2) the way this particular ranger is going about enforcing the trail park permit system. you weren't there on sunday so i will tell you that larry's behavior in trying to accomplish 2) WAS way out of line. everyone in the lot was interrogated as if they were criminals, including those who just pulled in for a few minutes -- as in before they even had a chance to go over to the bulletin board to see what the regs were. i had my ID taken and presumably had a check run on me because i chose to sit in a parking lot for 2 hrs and wait for a friend who's van i was getting a ride home in. when i was interrogated i told nothing but the truth but i was accused repeatedly of lying and of probably being a car theif. this behavior is not necessary for enforcement of the trail park permit system. [ 05-03-2002, 10:52 AM: Message edited by: sayjay ]

holy shit! this thread has come full-circle! does that mean it's finally gonna die?

so much debauchery went on that we've all been sworn to secrecy... sorry.

Ah but the key question is: DOES HE TRAD CLIMB?

quote: Erik said: restore original lower town trail quote: Rafael said: Eric, what kind of restoration of the Lower Wall?! need some reading comprehension lessons, Rafael? that would be trail not wall... (oh, and it's Erik w/ a k...)

Hey AlpineK, what were those pants you were wearing at Smith the other day? The arborist ones I mean... Are they $$$? They looked like they'd put up w/ all kinds of abuse... *and* they were sexy! [ 04-25-2002, 10:13 AM: Message edited by: sayjay ]

Thanks for asking, CJ. It was GREAT! Gotta love that place -- gorgeous and endless climbing to be had. Even found a camp spot right in Hidden Valley CG. So spent the first day and a half just climbing stuff around there -- mostly cracks. No Hands, Double Cross, Dog Leg, Papa Woolsey, other stuff I don't remember the names of. Rock is sharp but dang do the cracks take gear nicely! Hit some stuff near Ryan CG on Saturday then headed into Wonderland of Rocks. AMAZING AREA. Unfortunately we were kinda late getting in there and by the time we found what we wanted to climb it was hitting evening and there were lots of others on the climbs. So added em to the 'to do' list for the next trip... Got serenaded by Tom Petty back at the CG -- reminiscent of a night at Vantage a few years back. Only this time TP got shut down by the park ranger ~10pm; at Vantage we'd had it pounded into our heads til 5am... Sunday hit Lost Horse Wall and had our first day of REAL WARMTH. It was sunny the whole trip but dang cold, at least compared to what we were expecting. Sunshine every day (except Friday afternoon when it actually looked like it might rain!) and a cold north wind. One of those in-the-sun-outta-the-wind and you could wear shorts, but getting outta the wind was tough so it was more like long pants and pile top and hat...Sunday was sunny, 80's, light breeze, perrrrfect. And not only was Sunday gorgeous, but scored 5 beaners where someone had recently bagged off a climb! Ended the trip w/ beers and a big Thai meal. Guess the bright side of the cold weather was that I wore heavy jeans climbing most of the time and minimized the damage to my legs from flailing around on the crystalline rock... :-) Decided one of the things I liked about JTree was the lack of belay/rappel anchors; made for good alpine practice and seemed to keep people climbing w/in their ability...