sayjay

IT NEVER RAINS ON JAH ERIK! no wonder he wants to go...

We also were on Adams this weekend -- what a great couple of days! Took a bit of a different approach, tho. Followed South Spur route for maybe 1/4-1/2 mile then trended east and camped about 2-3 ridges over from S. Spur route. Set up camp at ~7,000'. Got up Sunday a.m. and headed east over to the Mazama Glacier. Nice being over on the unpopulated side of the mtn. -- only two other climbers over there. Found the route in great shape for skinning. No need for the rope, harnesses, crampons, or axes that we brought... Cravasses are large, obvious, and easily avoided. Joined up with the S Spur route about 600' below Piker's Peak (false summit). We didn't get as early a start as JGowans and co. so for us there was no need there for cramps/axe there either. Ski down was fabulous. A bit mushy mid-mtn, but the rest of the ski was Surprisingly good! Mazama route makes for a nice alternative to the popular S Spur, and by camping down low we didn't have to haul our overnight gear up or down much of the mtn. Definitely recommended -- and after July 1 it can be accessed more easily via the reservation (so you don't have to traverse east around the mtn) Bummer about the towing problems at Morrison. Saw that same high-centered Jeep. So much for 4WD getting ya places I think that by next weekend a lot more of the snow on the road should be gone, and if someone went in there with a chain saw they'd easily be able to clear a few fallen small-to-medium trees and drive quite a bit further up the road. Right now there's only one signficant snow patch and a few trees blocking ~1+mile of road... and the gate just above Morrison CG *is* open. Oh, and trail is fully skiable from Cold Creek up. There'll be a few bare patches by next weekend, but most of it should hang in there another 2-3 weeks-

hmmm, wouldn't really call it a lie-back....

...and do the 5.9 alternate start! It's awesome! and only 5.9 for a short section -- mostly easier. Nice TR! Made me smile, which is a good thing since I'm getting kinda grumpy sitting at my desk with all this sunshine outside Here's to Yos

i'd have to chalk this one up as perfect too -- especially since rob and i took an extra day. 4 day weekends ! hit smiffy on saturday and sunday. one of the least populated weekends i've seen down there -- where were the people??? happily got on any climb we wanted. got treated to a fabulous t-storm on saturday that lasted maybe half an hour. followed by sun and a breeze that dried everything out in about 15 min.... friendly folks, and no pink lycra in sight. where were ya DFA? monday floated the deschutes. hillsides were just amazing with bright green spring growth making them look like velvet. got to see a slew of birds, river otter, and a good friend catch his first rainbow on a fly. temp was PERFECT all weekend.

hey, thanks everyone! sounds like it's unanimous -- stick to the east side. maybe see some of y'all down there. i'll keep my eyes peeled for the DFA. dude in pink spandex, ya?

me, the hubba and some friends are going to make the migration down to smiffy for the long weekend. wondering if anyone knows the drive time via I-90/Yakima vs. just heading S on I-5 (assuming no traffic for either one). hoping to avoid the Seattle/Tacoma/Olympia traffic mess...

Heart of Darkness...

"I don't like it, and I'm sorry I ever had anything to do with it." - Erwin Schrodinger, on Quantum Mechanics.

speaking from direct experience are we DFA? driad, i'm with the multiple other folks who say they don't climb well when pissed. go for a run. stomp up a slog-of-a-mtn. leave the technical stuff to better days. my head needs to be all ommanipadmeom for me to really climb well, and when it's full of anger and spitfire i just get up there and flail and get more pissed off. and yeah, maybe end up throwing my shoes in the river... or perhaps just taking a good whipper feel better !

Braille Book 5.8

well, sheeite sobo, if we all followed that advice we'd never have ANY fun!

sobo's autosig: "In this life, you will come upon a canyon. Jump - for it is not as wide as you think." personally, i think that's the best advice i've heard in awhile. other than that given to me by erik this weekend... REMEMBER TO BREATHE!

yo, allison and i get along great! not competitive with me at all... to allison

i'll bring plates/forks/cups/napkins/garbage bags

~30+ feet onto on ice screw while climbing in a stunning cravasse, mid-winter in Antarctica. surface ice plated off, and the ice screw bent ~30-40degrees. doh. damn glad it held, considering the next flight off the continent wasn't for another couple of months.

dang, this almost is enough to inspire me to volunteer as a team cheerleader!

greg, don't know if my man is coming. he's been outta town, so haven't asked yet. but anyhow, he's a veggie so you don't have to include him in your carnivore count...

I'm in, and ready to eat flesh!

Two favorites: Cathedral Ledge, NH, 3 pitches up off the ground, watched a rather petite woman sitting on the edge of the cliff completely unanchored, belaying her partner who was well in excess of 200 lbs and was flailing his way up some really hard climb. Repeatedly scoffed at other climbers who told her she oughtta anchor herself... March, 1994, Camp Muir, going up to climb Gibs Ledges. Run into this guy from east Berlin who'd been sitting out weather at Muir for 3 days, waiting to go up the Ledges. No climbing experience whatsoever, but had learned about Rainier in a geography class back in high school and so showed up with a pair of homemade snowshoes, determined to climb it. We all got up at 2am to start climbing and he just turns to me (being the only girl of the 6 of us attempting the Ledges) and offers to take some of the stuff in my pack "because I have everything I need in my pockets" (!) Dude had on like an early 1970's ski parka, wind pants and some crappy gloves in his pockets and that's it....Yikes. Then on the way down from Muir later that day there was a thick cloud deck at ~9000' and he ended up descending onto the Nisqually Glacier and got lost. Walked the glacier all the way out to the road and had to hitch back to the parking lot at Paradise. Of course he thought the whole thing was just grand. Classic case of ignorance is bliss...

Hey Ibex, Who were your friends who were on the Ice? I might have known them... was there for a year back in '92-'93, then again for Winfly '94. Any overlap? Re: recreation on the Ice. True, recreational climbing is not allowed, but that don't mean it doesn't happen Got my first and only ice lead in down there... and as asst lab supervisor you'd get in a boondoggle or two for sure. helo trip to the dry valleys or whatever. but yeah, check out they web link above to get an idea of what you'd be getting yourself into. it's not a normal place...

oops! just realized there's some important info missing from the above: The job is for the position of Senior Assistant Supervisor, Lab Operations (Crary Lab), and it would be starting as soon as possible. The Senior Assistant Supervisor is a full time position based in Denver, with a deployment to McMurdo for approximately 5 to 6 months per year. This position deals with the day to day running of the Crary Science and Engineering Lab (CSEC) and requirements of research scientists working in the lab as part of NSF-funded research. This person is responsible for a widevariety of tasks including, but not limited to, radioisotope use, lab safety, equipment and reagent requests, space allocations, environmental rooms and refrigeration, permits, sample shipment processing, and the tasking of assistant supervisors. Experience working in the Crary at a research or technical level is a definite plus, although not necessary. Similarly, recent lab experience at the technical level or above is a major plus, as is any lab management or supervisory experience. Raytheon Polar Services is an Equal Opportunity Employer. For more information, contact: Steve P. Alexander Ph.D. Supervisor, Laboratory Operations Raytheon Polar Services Company 7400 South Tucson Way Centennial, CO 80112 (303) 790-8606 ext. 32352 steve.alexander@usap.gov or call Lisa Ferber at 1-800-688-2247. Cover letters and Resumes should be sent electronically to Steve's email address (or via pony mail)

Hey y'all, Here's a job that came across my desk. I've met enuf job-seeking cc.com'ers and enuf science geek cc.com'ers that I thought someone here might be a good match... You'd spend your summers in Colorado and your "winters" (Antarctic summers) at McMurdo Station, Antarctic, which is accessed via New Zealand. Must be able to deal w/ absurd corporate rules and realize you won't have free reign to run all over the continent, but you WOULD get to got to the Ice.... (moderators, move this if you can think of a better thread to put it in!) TITLE: Supervisor, Laboratory Operations, Assistant, Senior (M9) REPORTS TO: Off-ice: Supervisor, Laboratory Operations On-ice: Supervisor, Laboratory Operations, or Senior RPSC Manager SUMMARY STATEMENT: This position is responsible for assisting in the safe operation and maintenance of laboratories in support of USAP scientists; assisting the identification of researcher requirements; the supervision of associated staff hired in support of these research efforts; and making recommendations for improvement of the use of the laboratories. Laboratories include analytical chemistry, computer, microbiology, microscopy, molecular biology, radioisotope, seawater aquaria and general use laboratories configured to support atmospheric physics, geology, and glaciology projects. ESSENTIAL DUTIES AND RESPONSIBILITIES: Serves as Point-of-Contact for assigned science projects. Reviews or supervises the review of the venue-specific research requirements based on the Support Information Packages (SIPs) and other sources. Communicates with research groups regarding support requirements, and organizes science planning conferences as needed. Prepares and distributes Research Support Plans. Assists in review of research requirements, planning and scheduling of laboratory support for science projects. Provides input to the Supervisor Laboratory Operations and completes support and planning task as designated. Assists in recruiting, hiring, training and supervising laboratory and science technical staff as directed. Assists in researching, evaluating, justifying, and procuring laboratory and field instruments and equipment. At stations where RPS has meteorology responsibilities, assists in monitoring the on-site observation program. Provide input to the Supervisor, Laboratory Operations on suggested improvements to the laboratories and the associated systems that would enhance their use as research facilities. On the ice and in the absence of the Supervisor, Laboratory Operations, the Supervisor, Laboratory Operations, Assistant, Senior will assume the tasking of the Supervisor Laboratory Operations. Briefs scientists on safe laboratory practices and procedures and coordinates compliance with OSHA Laboratory Standard. Assists in supervising the use of radioisotopes and radiation producing equipment by NSF/OPP approved groups. Assists in monitoring the receipt, inventory, and proper use and disposal of hazardous laboratory chemicals including radioisotopes and photographic chemicals. Assists in segregating and packaging laboratory solid wastes for proper disposal, reuse, and/or recycling. At Palmer Station this position will coordinate with the Coordinator, EH&S for waste chemical packing and documentation, and/or provide oversight to the Supervisor, Laboratory Operations, Assistant. Installs, calibrates, and maintains instruments and equipment as directed. Receives and inventories capital equipment, instruments, materials, and supplies. Assists in maintaining appropriate and accurate inventories of spare parts. Assists in packaging of capital equipment, instruments, materials, and supplies for recalibration, repair, or replacement. Assists in organizing and scheduling instrument and equipment specific training for lab staff while off ice as directed. Ensures that the fabrication of equipment and other support requests made by science projects is properly scheduled and coordinated. Assists in managing the safe use of the science hand tool shop, if present, monitoring compliance with the science shop use policy. In the absence of a Cryogenics Technician, assists in providing cryogens, monitoring the safe use of cryogens, and monitoring a cryogenic supplies inventory. Conducts briefings on research and tours of the laboratory facilities for distinguished visitors. Prepares weekly, monthly and end of season status reports as necessary. Handles confidential matters (personnel actions, management reports, etc.) in accordance with management policy. Interacts with the National Science Foundation, military, and other agency officials, both over the telephone and in person, in a professional and tactful manner. As necessary, communicates professional, both orally and in writing, with their subordinates as needed to relay information they need in order to be successful in their jobs. This includes, but is not limited to, staff meetings, performance appraisals, job requirements, division metrics, projects, Quality Standard Procedures, and safety practices. Performs other duties as required. EDUCATION: A Bachelor’s degree in a natural or physical science or four years career experience working with researchers in an academic laboratory. CERTIFICATIONS, AND/OR LICENSING REQUIREMENTS: None required TRAINING: None required EXPERIENCE: Two years of laboratory or observatory technical work experience and one year supervisory experience required. Laboratory or observatory technical work should include operational experience utilizing analytical equipment. A background in an academic research environment providing direct support to science projects is highly desirable. Operational knowledge of Windows 95 and MS Office Products. Strong background and training in Laboratory Occupational Safety and Health Administration and Nuclear Regulatory Commission safety regulations is recommended. PHYSICAL AND/OR OTHER SPECIFIC REQUIREMENTS: Deployment may be required in this position at discretion of management. If required, the individual in the position must successfully complete the physical and dental examinations, and psychological examination for winter-over positions, as required by the NSF for deploying to Antarctica. Failure to meet these requirements may result in withdrawal of employment offer or other employment action. Complies with applicable safety, environment, health, and waste management policies and procedure. US citizenship or permanent residence required.

As advised many times to others: come to pubclub! you'll pretty quickly meet cool cascadeclimber folks (the guys are all much more tame in real life than on the board, and other women DO show up!....). if you're at all for real you'll also find lots of climbing partners Worked for me! Sarah (oh, and welcome to the pacnw!)

by the way, there's all kinds of first ascents to be had there. ...IF you can get yourself more than 3 hrs of blue sky at a time