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G-spotter

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Everything posted by G-spotter

  1. G-spotter

    Animal Fat

    Fat
  2. It's a disaster you can avoid by living in Ireland, which has never had an earthquake in recorded history. Move.
  3. Just wait till the great PNW earthquake, those same people will be begging for help.
  4. It's only 7km of logging road to walk if you can't drive it - an extra hour or so each way.
  5. Trip: Mount Sloan - First Ascent South Central (III, 5.9) Date: 9/13/2008 Trip Report: Doug and I climbed the central rib on the south face of Mt Sloan on Sunday Sept. 14. We drove up the Hurley on Friday night and camped near the hydro gauge. Woke up to a flat tire on my borrowed Forester and the spare was almost flat too, got it sorted in Gold Bridge and were at the trailhead around noon and at the lake and campsite around 2. Little bit late for starting a route (we had originally hoped to do two climbs in the area) so instead we went bouldering. Awesome full moon rise over the lake that evening. Up on Sunday morning and up the talus to the base o the face. We chose the rib directly east of the standard scrambling route gully as it has some white headwalls with splitter cracks I have wanted to check out for years. In the event our route avoided these splitters - bring three or four cams in the thin-hands range if you want to sample them. We climbed seven roped pitches (but two were really more like roped scrambling, 3rd class and 5.1ish) and then did about 250m of scrambling above on the lower-angled portion of the rib to summit. Route description: Pitch 1: Beginning right on the arete bounding the gully right of the standard gully, climb cracks and arete to a large ledge (30m, 5.7). Move belay 15m across ledge to next wall. P2: Climb large corner, avoiding greenery via face climbing up featured right wall. Good horizontal cracks for gear. Belay on ledge above (55m, 5.7) P3: Cut back left and pull short bulge to gain hanging slab left of corner. Climb slab to arete, then go right and up short overhanging stemming corner to belay above on arete with many blocks (35m, 5.8) P4: Move belay 30m along low angle arete to base of vertical white wall (30m, Class 3) P5: Move left and climb arete on good holds but poor pro (small wires behind flakes) for 10m or so until able to stem left to corner system. Continue up to ledge below second white wall. Climb right-hand vertical corner (awkward at first, then good stemming) to belay above (40m, 5.9) P6: Move right into large corner/ramp, climb to its end (60m, 5.1) P7: Climb wall left of arete up flakes and blocks, finishing right of fresh rockfall scar. Inobvious route finding but good pro. (45m, 5.7) From here, 250m of scrambling reaches the summit - either the lower-angle ridge crest or the gully immediately to the right can be used. Pics: On the approach Bouldering Moon and fire Approach Da route, and the headwall with splitter cracks we aimed for and then avoided on the left. P1 P2 P5 Routefinding on p7. Actual route went up to the right of this. Scrambling Doug posing down on the summit View south to Sampson area Bridge Gl./Tchaizakan area far to the NW Google Earth topo showing routes: Blue is the Southwest Buttress route from 2005 Green is the standard gully route. Although not shown in the interests of clarity, all of the other gullies on the face have been climbed - see BCM a couple years ago (2004?) for details. Red is the line of our new route. Orange is the SE Buttress Purple is the classic NE Ridge. Gear Notes: Light rack from small wired nuts to #3 Camalot. Bring triples of red TCU and/or red Camalot size for splitter cracks on white headwall. Approach Notes: Ault Creek road is 4wd, need about the clearance of a Forester to make it through - Legacy wouldn't cut it in the waterbars. Trail to upper lake is well-flagged and well-maintained but meanders annoyingly through bush. Direct approach from clearcut next to creek and waterfall as far as lower lake works better.
  6. G-spotter

    IB

    Ike Blowouts
  7. Sun Tzu said war is art.
  8. G-spotter

    IB

    Quality can be measured objectively through averaging individual opinions and IB scores low. You poersonally might think that eating feces is delicious but I don't have to do it to know it isn't.
  9. G-spotter

    IB

    How can you diss on something you know nothing about? Just asking...... I've never been to Rio de Janiero but I know it's hot there. This works the same way.
  10. G-spotter

    Economic News

    There's really good rime ice climbing on the central crater of Ruapehu! You should hit it just right in early spring?
  11. G-spotter

    IB

    Maybe no one climbed it this year because everyone realized it sucks.
  12. Grivel itself is not going out of business so if you want it you can buy from one of many online European retailers until/if they find a new NA distributor.
  13. Everything but that. Mycophile, Moss Killer etc.
  14. You're 10 years too late - it's an 11b slab route in Squamish.
  15. Yes he did. He went from soulclimber to media whore in a few short years, and lost his dignity in the process.
  16. Phyllis Beltz thought the then-unclimbed spires looked like a choo-choo train and the name has stuck. Congrats on your canoeless ascent Darin. Canoes are aid! It's kinda awe inspiring to think that Peter Croft linked Castle Towers and the North ridge of Sphinx with a complete circumnavigation of Garibaldi Lake in less than 24 hrs from Rubble Creek parking lot.
  17. Sounds like your hand might need to take some antibiotics.
  18. It'd be better if you said "Sit on my fanny" in a British accent
  19. For you, a bouquet of stinging nettles, deadly nightshade and something you're allergic to.
  20. I made a 30 foot tall robot out of milk crates and dismantled turntables. I'm sending it over to your house to smash your table.
  21. Trip: Norrish Creek - Canyoneering Descent Date: 9/10/2008 Trip Report: I had found out from a canyoneering friend that you can do the Norrish Creek Canyon (6 or 7km of the lower watershed) near Mission as a relatively easy descent - a couple of pool jumps and swims but no mandatory rappelling or downclimbing. We do a lot of work in the watershed and I have done research for both my degrees there so doing this one was a no-brainer for us. My boss and I took the day off work yesterday and took the trip through the canyon in about 4.5 hours. Beautiful scenery - tight slot canyons in granite, waterfalls, water-worn boulders, landslides, dark pools, bright pools, frogs, fish, minks (not minx ) and long stretches of boulder, cobble and sandbar walking. Some old growth cedars too! There is a lot of deep-water soloing type climbing potential in the canyon but a lot of it is mossy. Wearing approach shoes with the wetsuit means you can do some bouldering, though. I'm definitely doing this one again next year. Gear Notes: Full wetsuit, approach shoes, helmet. Waterproof camera (mine was "weatherproof" and after taking 47 pictures, turned into an expensive brick about 1/3 of the way through ) Approach Notes: Two car shuttle. Leave one car at 3km and park other car at water treatment plan. Enter canyon at Rose Creek and follow downstream to Sally Creek. Exit along north bank of Sally Creek to pick up trail leading back up to road.
  22. Fuzzy Wuzzy was a bear Fuzzy Wuzzy had no hair Fuzzy Wuzzy didn't care Cause Fuzzy was a Doukhobear!
  23. During the Paul Bernardo trial in the 90's it was alleged in testimony that Bernardo prowled the streets carrying a "rape kit" consisting of a pair of panties, duct tape and a large knife. A few months later a friend and I were hitchhiking to Squamish and got a lift with a 40-ish social worker and her client, a wizened old native guy who must have been near 70. After we got in the car he turned to us and said with glee "You've got to watch out who you're hitching with, boys! I've got a knife" (and he held up a $9.99 Swiss Army special) "and I think she's wearing panties!"
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