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Everything posted by G-spotter
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Who is this Trish Fox? A news anchor?
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hello so far i have been climbing and training at this index town wall many times during the winter the thin cracks there are good for practicing for the leashlees ascents at alpine and in the competitions however the protection is not so good sometimes where there is only crack for tools and points i have improved several of these sections with bolts to allow mixed-climbing of these passages with protection opportunities i do not think that nailing should be done to damage the crack as it might make the climb easier. better to put a strong bolt in smooth rock glacis type, than damage crack and make it more easy by using piton. so far the hardest route i am sending leashress this winter has been ironhorse
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hello, you cannot fool me. that photo is not of si mountain. it is of the smith rock, asterix pass. i have been to that new ice farming area there, and found it to be mediocre. they need to have more ice and less drilled pockets there, to make for good climbing. thank you to whom ever deleted my trip report about Dragentail by the way. In Europe we are more polite than this!
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thank you all for comments you have given. cascade climber i will climb that route this year if you say so but surely we can speculate about grading before then? compared with say the Navigation Wall on Sleese, 22 pitches at 5-10d, to say a 12 pitch 10-a is also V sounds surprising to me which is why i mentioned it. liberty crack at V also sounds suspicious, but perhaps the aid slows down many? if you only aid the roof pitch, this surely must be a IV. perhaps harder if placements is not in situ. i have seen these mclane guides and do not agree with all grades he has given too. these routes on tantalus look harder and more remote than on joffre but joffre is given more high a grade in many cases. also this ice face in garibaldi park is given hardest ice route at td, is it really comparable to a td such as shroud on grands jorasses? looks like easier and mostly snow climbing to me.
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Why is this grade used for alpine routes. You should switch to European alpine grades like the Canadians are now doing. I think the NCCS grade in America is being abused to. Every person seems to inflate this grade a bit at a time. I look at example like route done by Jens and Ben on Nooksak Tower. They gave it Grade V for a 12 pitch route at 10a. Since it is remote and loose it might be TD- but is it really V when compared to V like on Slesse or in Yosemite? I do not think so.
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hello climbers, i am thinking this game is fun to play too. this attached photo, is of an area i found in southern washington, well, south of tacoma i think. i dont know, but perhaps there are no climbs yet on this sharp arete or the dalle beneath it? the rock, seemed to be of granite nature to my eye.
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Hello, Are not many of those country getting american military aid?? As if anyone thinks Portugal is serious world power anyways. please. would they invade spain or what? like canada invading usa, haha. i notice that american capital is fleeing in advance of war, to europe, mainly ireland, france, germany, former yugo. this is why euro goes up, and american dollar goes down - mismanagement of mister bush. its ok though, in my contract i am getting paid in euro by my company, so it means i am getting raises every day for weeks now.
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Only leashless spray should be allowed on site like this. To spray with leash is the aid and style of bad.
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I went to this Rock Trip to see the best of America confront the Europeans on the home-ground. It was very sweet for several days as lots of the sending went down. There was not the fighting I had thought was to happen, but instead, friendship and peace feelings. I saw some of these hard-guys work on and do a new V13 etc etc. Myself I completed one V9, two V7, lots of easier ones before my finger was hurt with a flapping skin injury - and had a good party time in the natural hot tubs etcetera also. And Chris Sharma, he asked me to give his greatest affection to a girl named Kia (?spelling I dont know that good) for some time of love they spent together in the past. He said she lives in Washington so I post it here if you know her, please pass it on.
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after this post you know what animal will appear.
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In Europe there would be a funicular.
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who is this trask?
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Trip Report: European Styled Ascent of The Toothie
G-spotter replied to G-spotter's topic in Alpine Lakes
This person scotteryx sent me PM complaining my TR was much too like his so I look again on his site www.nwog.org. I think they have important points of difference but are maybe somewhat alike maybe since we are describing same features on same mountain, I dont know. What do you think? Perhaps just you should call me g-spot'teryx now from on. I dont try to make fun of him but I see on Muir is Saturday thread he upsets easily? -
“BigWall Rocky” and my own self, headed up to Alpental on Saturday morning quite early, just when Sun arose if we could have seen her. We headed up the Snow Lake trail to the Source Lake junction and then followed that as it made its way to the end of the basin and above Source Lake. In about 90 centimeters of newest snow, quite wet and unassuming, we crossed and then headed up the talus fields, keeping a lookout for rock piles poking out from the snow, and a few wands were placed; sometimes there is a trail that follows the left portion of the talus field on steep dirt and roots, but hardest to find under all the new flakes. After you gain that dirt headwall and have ascended talus, you get a good view of the Tooth, if not the clouds have come in like had done to us. Rocky called this then sucker hole. So it was time, we follow the talus fields all the way until below the Tooth and then head up the second gully left of the tooth, as the first one is a rap gulley from Pineapple Pass. We gained the gulley system and then went around the back of it following the trail, although in Europe there would be more chains and ropes for a real trail good for people to follow. Here you must step over a meter high rock ridge and head up a small seven meter chimney with tree roots, and then down a trail and up the 3rd class system that gets you to Pineapple Pass. There is room for half a dozen climbers up here, perhaps one day we should have a party, with portaledges and DJ music. There is another rap station below the pass, but it was not the best that I have seen. So we climbed up, there was no ice and we brushed snow off the holds then placed our tools and crampons with care so as not to break anything, for rock is bad, like Julian Alps. The first pitch heads up the ramp, up a large crack or diedre, and then up to a tree belay that is wrapped with old garbage slings. I forced myself to kneel and clip-in for belay of Rocky. Only one piece of gear went on the 1st pitch (II UIAA) it should have more as it is dangerous, but perhaps Americans do not care of such things. From the 2nd belay we headed right and then up some dangerous loose blocks, and past a snag to a large belay tree. I implored Rocky to think about placing as bolt, as trees and blocks and such are not approved CEN anchors, but he unkindly told me to shut-up. From there we climbed together, it was too easy to rope and not exposed but slippery with snow and rain, we were quite humidity. The last pitch heads up some scary loose flakes (UIAA III or M2 if dry tooled) to the last belay tree, that is on the summit. It was the most enjoyable pitch, and I wish it would have lasted longer, but by that time we were standing on the summit. It was now past noon and we were all alone up there, it was cold but too wet for good ice, and although I had been maybe the first to winter-climb it leashless, it was not something I should bark about, because in Europe nothing of the sort is bothered to report, like lake beds in Canada. We were alone as the other persons we had seen were lost in rubber boots back down by the lake, with large dogs and shotguns we had not talked to them. It was cold and wet, so we decided to start the decent. The rappel is not safe, being on old slings and not chains, so we climbed down solo, it was fairly tedious but not hard as we had come up and could see our own marks to follow.. From Pineapple Pass we jumped and slid and then down the Talus slopes. Before we got down out of the basin it had turned to heavy rain mixed with fog and we were navigating the steeper boulder fields like blinded men. We got back on the Source Lake Trail and out of there quite quickly, and came back here for beers. Rocky said it was a good climb but I was disappointed there should have been more fixed gear and steeper climbing. Perhaps a modern route with fixed anchors on the steep East face would bring more serious winter climbing to this summit. [ 11-16-2002, 05:11 PM: Message edited by: G-spotter ]
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Who would like to get on top of this route this weekend? I have some new leashless tools it might be good to test-out for a half day. send me PM if interested.
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I was a teenage dinosaur Stoned and obsolete I didnt get fucked and i didnt get kissed I got so fucking pissed Repo Man Iggy Pop.
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Are there any via ferrata in the Enchantments? I think it would be good place to maybe build a few so that more hikers can experience these beautiful summits.
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I hear you are a hotty, please add me to your waiting list.
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"Finn Family Moomintroll" by Tove Jansson. Anarchist childrens books from Finland. [ 09-19-2002, 04:06 PM: Message edited by: G-spotter ]
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For stone of river, to go up is, not to use the hatchet of ice so well on problems already established, because small influences and flakes can be eliminated. However, if you are with sector which no visit is then free you to decide, to make, who it is also always your preference, to choose and "nut with you!" with each one besides.
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Bouldering is for losers of the Nazis who would like to do everything all at time only certain manner. While for alpine going up does not constitute it, as you make it, only if you do not arrive at the upper surface or else.
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I understand that this crag area is very featured with lots of pockets and edges. Which routes would be most appropriate for practicing dry tooling on? Rest assured I will not be using leashes only crampons and the newest ice tools. Thanks!
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Cheap, i think you mean Pencil Pusher not my own self.
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maby someone on this silly thread knows the answer to why American woman all shave their armpits but European woman mostly do not?