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fern

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Everything posted by fern

  1. I am considering getting a 8.3x60 dry edelrid livewire and cutting it in half. Anybody want to split it with me? brand new from the store and everything. the cost to you is ~$45US includes shipping. PM if interested
  2. i tink you have hosed your rap there erik. cause to rap the fatty the knot's gotta be on the far side and if then you hitch a biner on the fatty on the near side and clip the skinny you just end up with two fixed ropes you have to put the biner on the side you are gonna pull no?
  3. weren't there some other posts on this thread before? I saw some I thought were funny and harmless. I guess someone must have been deeply offended though. I wonder why this particular researcher seems to focus in on rock-climbing related studies, first Niagara Escarpment, now Wisconsin. I think he even posted here a few times asking for other info. Is he a climber himself and trying to assuage some catholic guilt? it is curious. The quote in the article that raised my eyebrows was the rather dissmissive one by the Access Fund person ... just one study ... who cares about the snails anyways ... too small to eat.
  4. I vote Tacoma
  5. rock climbing cuts mollusk diversity a new study from Wisconsin by the same team which studied climber impact on Niagara Escarpment flora.
  6. fern

    Tattoos

    who is Generation X 1965-1975 alpineK you don't make the cut - baby boomer
  7. notably why? because it turns the whole issue into a cowardly troll? uh huh.
  8. fern

    Devils Thumb

    I have added a photo of John to the photo gallery.
  9. people do it. We can hook you up with partners though
  10. looking at the issue purely from the perspective of krushing the rock and enlarging pin scars, hammering them in does some damage, but hammering them out again does a lot more. Who is the first person in this thread to suggest going up and removing the offending pins?
  11. http://www.prudentialmikewest.com/mwimages/L2676.htm what's a 1031 tax exchange? I will build many buildings and I will not let you gapers climb on MY crags
  12. Is there a real estate listing for this property somewhere? Maybe a map?
  13. full reach is nice for bolt ladders and fixed gear too. Hook the piece and jack yourself up. Also overhangs and roofs. If you make it too short you can't use it long. If you decide it's too long then chop it off. It can get tangly for sure, I tie a bighted overhand for the stopper knot and clip that off to the side sometimes. They are pretty versatile but not a book-learning widget. Go out and use it and figure it out.
  14. the Braesyde parking was temporarily closed last month while the insurance was renewed. It is open again now.
  15. YMMV but I use (amount to tie into belay loop) + (fully extended arm) + (enough to wrap around hand to yank) + (amount to tie a stopper knot) cluster shmuzter
  16. fern

    Self Rescue

    I think if you dig into those Fish techweenie pages you get some good explanation of why high ratio mechanical advantage systems are not the greatest idea for live hauling. In typical Fish style it uses phrases like "pop yer buddy's head clean off!" or something like that.
  17. fern

    Devils Thumb

    I have a few more details but I don't wish to share publically right now. I have spent some time with friends this afternoon and we are all very sad and lost for words. This is an enormous blow. Details are spare and the news has not yet travelled to all close friends and family, many are away on climbing trips themselves.
  18. fern

    Devils Thumb

    I just got an email from Lena forwarded from Kai. they are presumed buried. perhaps there will be a miracle but it seems unlikely.
  19. to Bill's list I would add: - over the neck can go horribly wrong if you are not careful - over your foot - tie loose bighted overhand knots every 20' or so and clip them off to the side. (overhand == easily recognized as NOT being somebody's clip-in which would be a fig8 or clove hitch) you can practice a lot of this stuff cragging before you get on a multi-pitch obviously.
  20. fern

    Devils Thumb

    shit. Jolly John is a good friend and one of the best people I know. This is pretty upsetting.
  21. pin scars get bigger from taking pins OUT and ehmmic didn't ... so there
  22. fern

    Annoyances

    when I'm a passenger and the driver has to circulate around the whole parking lot to find the best spot rather than just parking in the first one available
  23. fern

    Freaking Mounties

    I'd rather see all 20 or 60 or 200 people contained at one crag than have them split into groups and spread out. Once your group size is greater than about 6-8 people it doesn't matter how many more people you add, you have already achieved the distinction of being a BIG GROUP. I'd rather there was just one BIG GROUP at one crag rather than 5 of them spread around the whole area.
  24. fern

    Freaking Mounties

    "studies have shown" that 3 pieces of 1" webbing collected together for a rappel station are strong enough no matter how old and crusty they are. This was published in a book called "Playing It Safe". regular bolt stations threaded with webbing for rappel are suck. If you are planning to install one gimme a call and I will mail you the extra $5 to do the absolute minimum upgrade and attach two quicklinks.
  25. since Dru is away I am compelled to fill in: [dru] ALL tricam placements are BOMBER man. [/dru]
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