fern

didn't he have a twin brother though? to a life lived well.

why don't you google it? Hint: it is an Acronym, and the last word is naughty.

peaks to bag: Mt. Harvey The West Lion The Black Tusk Blackcomb Echo Lake is coooool. You should scam a canoe and go there! It's super.

brew pub sat pm B there or B a 4sided geometric figure

and if you do like one especially you can take it along to use again later!

did you see that sattelite photo that was posted yesterday? Did you see how many mountains there are North of the lil purple line marking the 49th Parallel? Check out some canadian guiding companies ... Canada West Mountain School, Whistler Alpine Guide Bureau, Slipstream Adventure, even Squamish Rock Guides... they all have webpages. They are all accredited. They are usually very amenable to catering their courses to what the clients want because they aren't running high volume concession outfits.

I don't have the magazine here right now to check the gist of the interview was that he does a lot of free soloing (this issue's 'theme') in the high grades and has also (rap?)bolted routes to a R/X standard.

the latest R&I has a profile on some east coast crankster who has done this ... Tim Kemple I think?

haven't seen him ... not sure who is living there now ... maybe it got rented to a family? ... I almost ran over a few kids on bikes there last week

I don't really understand what you are saying mattp ... was that meant as a slam? Anyways, perhaps I should have qualified that it is the internet debating between strangers that I am disinterested in joining, and this is generally true for any 'controversial' topic. I am happy to discourse on the issues in person, especially if the venue is a pleasant approach to a climb or as second choice a nice pint in the sun. Perhaps some day you and I will have such an opportunity to learn more about each other and our differences and commonalities matt. Most of the routes mentioned it seems are one people have already tried and by some measured failed on. I posed the question more in mind of routes that scare you too much to get on ... yet. Although you can envision the day when you WILL be ready for the challenge. Are there any routes that fall into this category? Reasons? Travis, Mike Hengeveld is a good friend of mine, if you want to borrow some of those tights I can ask him for you, he has lots and is always happy to spread the colour . Also there is a picture of Neil Bennett in the photo gallery here on another route on my not-yet list "Clean Corner". I'll have to do a little research on Index to find out why these routes are such stoppers for you all.

mostly I find retro-bolting debates to be ... but it seems to be the flavour of the week. lets side step does anyone have a not-yet route? Something that taken strictly by a YDS number is within your reach yet the quality of pro, or quality of rock or other commiting factors causes you to pause and say "not yet"? Perhaps for you a future adventure would be lost if someone decided to do some Hilti-renovation. I have a few such routes in mind, for example Grim Reaper on the Squamish Apron which involves long traverses and runouts of slab climbing and was first put up onsight, lead bolted with stiffy 70s era boots and no doubt some kine courage. It went a couple of years before being reapeated and even now has probably only seen a few dozen ascents.

oh COME ON carolyn! borrow some wire cutters, borrow a drill, borrow a round file, borrow a vise and get CUTTING! If you are squicked by the results in the end I will buy you a replacement. You can do it! ... or at the very least you will never know that you can't do it until you f@#$ it up trying. It's a $10 investment in self affirmation

can you get a wired one and cut the wire out and rethread? maybe need to enlarge the hole a little.

I'm wondering the feeling will come back at some point. not if you keep getting them cold or cramming them into tight shoes. There have been previous threads on this topic.

days are long in July. a good strategy is to get up early, climb, siesta in the mid aft, early dinner then climb again until it gets dark. With only a few days I think it would be a waste of your time to fight the midday crowds in the Bluffs.

"It seems like marginal gear could be more dangerous than no gear at all if you're playing this game." sometimes otherwise marginal gear can be useful by taking off the weight of the rope while you pull a dicey move.

*crickets*

I have had 1 friend lose a finger because of weighting a cam placed behind a loose block, and another friend have as close a call as you can imagine when he fell on a cam and pulled off a block about 3 times his size and fell with it. Don't put gear behind loose flakes.

I have an english-language guidebook "The Alpine 4000ers by their Classic Routes" you are welcome to borrow. I've never been to the Alps so I don't know how good a guide it is.

I admire your good citizenship by asking for opinions before hauling the axe out ... but probably you shoulda just gone out on a rainy day and done the work anonymously relying on your own common sense and judgement. ... now no matter who chops a tree and how hacked up a job they do you will get the blame .

I'll try to be there

tiblocs shred ropes, even if you use a tibloc you should use a prussik or similar to back it up, so why not just use the prussik in the first place? and so what if pulleys reduce drag, it's a static system once you get it set up, it's not like a crevasse rescue or hauling or anything where the moving parts are the whole point of the exercise. people who have set these up give you advice on a simple low tech system and you discount it for one that requires more expensive fancy equipment. funny

put the nut tool at one end of the axle and hammer the thing parallel to the axle into a less restrictive spot. A rock makes a handy hammer, though more often I use a carabiner brass-knuckles style and punch the thing with aggression. Better to not let them get stuck.

nothing is shut down for falcons yet AFAIK. U Wall has never been part of those closures in the past and is unlikely to be affected this year. HOWEVER, last year the falcon closure included the Bellygood escape which means to exit U-Wall you had to either climb the Roman Chimneys to the summit or rap down from Dance Platform. you do know that U-Wall is not on the Lower Malemute though right