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fern

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Everything posted by fern

  1. ya that was the joke. I wouldn't rely on the numbers on 8a.nu either.
  2. a reminder to everyone to keep the discussion civil and reasonably on track. thank you
  3. if you think you have a medical condition wouldn't a doctor be a better person to talk to than a paramedic? feeling like shit after rowing is normal. I attribute it to a hunched posture which alters how you would normally inflate your chest, and also changes how you process lactic acid. I usually try to go for an easy short jog as soon as I can after getting off the rower and generally feel better after that. I thought that exercise induced asthma was one of those things aggravated by breathing cold air ... so if in all your alpine and winter adventures you have never had problems maybe it is just a rowing thing. 7:28 puts you at around 1360th in the world on concept2.com ... how does that compare to your 8a.nu score?
  4. Read Accidents in North American Mountaineering to get an idea of carabiner breakage rates. It is actually fairly common - probably the most common reported mode of actual gear failure rather than operator failure - though often operator error sets up the circumstance for gear failure (eg clove hitching to intermediate pieces when rope soloing).
  5. the rap rings at the top of bunny face are down to about 25% from people TRing through them. no shit I coulda DIED!
  6. show me picture
  7. AFAIK the fluorescents don't work with dimmer switches though ... no more mood lighting
  8. this is complete nonsense.
  9. who is sponsoring saturday?
  10. 2 opposed quickdraw anchor properly rigged probably isn't going to kill you but it is sub-optimal from a clusterfuck perspective. A multipitch anchor with a solid "power point" is going to give you much more flexibility for managing your belay. Cordallettes or double length slings or similar are all good. Clip yourself to the powerpoint directly using the rope and a locker (or opposed non lockers) use your daisy as a backup if you like.
  11. go to skull hollow. skulk around the loop peering at random groups huddled around burning pallets. periodically work up the nerve to approach strangers and ask: "Is this the Plab?"
  12. maybe you know this already ericb, and it doesn't apply here, but I feel it is worth mentioning. Sometimes a following party that isn't aiming to pass will wait until the party above has cleared the belays before continuing themselves, for example to not have to share gear belay stances. Just because they were a ways behind you all day doesn't mean that you were climbing faster than them and absolved of responsibility for any traffic jams lower on the route. If you had climbed faster they also may have climbed faster but still deliberately kept a separation so as not to crowd you.
  13. as a TR forum moderator I aim for something like #3. But I try to take into account things like the humour level of the original TR and whether the solid beta there is still going to be useful in 5 yrs, or it's only of short term use. One one level this is a circus and on another we are collectively building a huge database of climbing info that would ideally be searchable and usable by anyone without having to shovel through a deep layer of junk posts. other mods may have slightly different ideas about where the fuzzy lines are. we are all pretty much on the same page about spray that degenerates into insults, or TR responses that are discouraging to the continued posting of TRs of any route - hardcore or beginner - by any user, 40 000 posts or 1.
  14. OK PM me address to ship to.
  15. yes it is no joke. 1 Patagonia windshirt - hoody style. Yellow and orange color. Size large. dunno ... lets say $15 + shipping other items Scarpa Magic ski boots, Dynafit compatible, not thermofit. Used less than 12 times. Too big. Size Mondo 25 (Euro 39, US Women's 7). $275 I also have an old pair of Messner signature (oooo!!) bright euro colored Nordica TR9s, larger size than the above. The liners are not great. But I will sell them cheap. I will have to double check the size. I think they are Mondo 26.5 . North Face synthetic insulated pants. Black. Size L or XL (I will check). Full side zips etc. I dunno if they make these any more but I think they were called the Cerro Torre or something. V. good shape, not worn often. $40 MEC 3 Layer Goretex Pants, women's XL, v. good condition. full side zips. Black. $35 I might add more later ... I will try to get pictures if there is any interest.
  16. hey Cobra_Commander ... what's that bolted thing on the Shakespeare cliff that I was TRing last year?
  17. if you get turbulent flow perhaps you don't even need silt in the water. see: cavitation it's all beside the original point if Snow Creek canyon or Icicle Ck canyon were never glaciated. were they?
  18. thanks for adding prices. good luck with your sale.
  19. Plinko if you are not going to put public prices on your items here, or if you are going to direct people by PM to your originally posted ebay auction then you are not following the rules. I will remove your post, and I will continue to remove it every time you repost it.
  20. I liked Blood Clot. My most hated crux is on Quasar Bring on the Lower Gorge recommendations, I am making a fall tick list I haven't been on many .11s there but it seems like at those grades they start to become more face-climb less pure crack climb ... or at least the cruxs are face climbing sections to access easier cracks.
  21. yeah exactly. cochise has big knobs because there were no glaciers to destroy them. y'all are VERY smart
  22. and cochise stronghold is too far south to have ever been glaciated. we have our answer. the cc.com braintrust prevails again!!
  23. have you ever taken an ice cube and tried to grind a hole in a piece of granite with it?
  24. the double axle design defends the BD individual cam lobes from getting into weird tipped or twisted configurations. The big C4s are more stable than the old design (longer cam axle), check online stores and you can often find them 10-20% discount which will make them cheaper than the inferior WCs
  25. Every weekend just about I ban one or two newly registered users who are using the Yard Sale to shill something. I don't always notice the subtle ones though, and I am inclined to give benefit of doubt when I am unsure. It's not like product-reps or gear store owners or gear manfacturers are unwelcome here. They usually are welcome as long as they are forthcoming about their identity. The sneaky ones who are faking Gear Critic threads to 'discuss' whatever stuff they've been pro-dealed to talk up .... those guys aren't welcome.
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