Climbed Slesse NE Butt on 8/15-16 from the buttress toe with buddy from SLC.
We scrambled up the broken terrain to the slabs below the E pocket glacer, and safely to the buttress. Twenty minutes later, as we racked up, some ice calved off and littered the area with ice chunks. Both north and east side pocket glaciers are still there and dislodging lots of ice.
The first three pitches of "da toe" provided the most difficult climbing of the entire route. A section of nice simul-climbing led to a section of bush-pulling. We missed the 5.7 bypass, and proceeded to the mid-height area, where the rock became steeper and juggy. A few strenuous pitches led to our bivy. Here, a critter chewed on my chums so that the shades fell out the next day, and chewed on Aaron's pack too. Bitch. We finished the route the next morning direct to the summit. Better climbing up there.
The descent involves staying alert for another hour or two while finding the rappels and gully connections. Then we trudged down and down and down. Those hosers up there set up their trails kinda funny... We limped into the parking area at dark. I slept on that little wooden frame thingy, which was sweet. Use the Crossover descent, wherever that is, if you have the interest and patience and stamina.
We hadn't set up any kind of shuttle. But some other climbers loaned us their bikes after deciding to jump into a helicopter that landed there. Thanks fellas and good luck!