Rafael_H

Yeah, bad, bad place, stay away from it, right, Lucky?

Somewhat off subject, I saw the new Patagonia garments for 2005 during a demo at FF. Finally got the answer to what I've been looking for! Forgot the name of the fabric, but one of the new jackets is called Mixup. Look for it in January. And, it is just $200 - kiss it, Arcteryx!!! (I zeroed in to that thing at the first glance. One touch was enough to see a revolution. Another advancement was glued seams, not sewn. Interestingly, the one demo-ed was Steve House's on his climb of K7.) Another note, I was testing ice-tools today at Big Four, two hours straight under a non-stop heavy rain (what a day, geez). I wore an Arcteryx Anabatic (similar to Paragonia's Essenshell) and a shell out of that Sil-Nilon looking material over the top. The inside of the Anabatic never got wet anywhere. The outside had wet spots on arms and chest. I previously treated the outer shell with that Tectron or smth. So to me all that Gore stuff is history, along with eVent and what not. Oh, here, my Shoeller pants, also treated, were not soaked through at all, with the exception of upper thighs that felt just damp.

Stanley, I would like to send you a PM, but the feature is not enabled in your profile. Please email me - my email is in my profile. Thank you, Rafael

Or one can drill some nice incut pockets and climb with no tools at all. Then if it is considered bad, they can be filled with epoxy...

FYI: From Grivel: Trigger - Art. PJ34.73 Grivel’s invention mounted on the Top Machine in 2000 is now available for tubes of all diameters: in yellow for all tubes up to 20 x 30mm in diameter and in black for larger sizes. It can be regulated at any point and distributes the weight over the fingers. I don't have the thingy yet though. Mantling: that's why I hated Androids back in 2001, but it only takes practice to unclip in no time - way easier than with higher positioned Clipper. The point is to not be clipped most of the time though...

Well, I got t the cams by looking for Grivel Racing Wings, stumbled over some posts on the rockclimbing.com, and saw the new Trango cams were going to sell this summer. Then silence. All the reference pics are pagenotfounded... Same for LaSportiva new shoes, WC rocks anodized, Metolius new cam, you name it. Conspiracyyy (which it is, to empty last years stuff before shipping new, I would think).

I saw Cinch at a demo in the gym, Trango rep didn't let me use it for climbing though. So I could only play with rope feeding in and out. It catches just fine, better than Gri-Gri. But feeds crapily. And that's the catch I don't believe it being a hot deal. The actual retail version is going to be even SLOWER according to the rep. Not my money, sorry. They'll catch the beginner market, claiming safety, for sure. But I don't see advanced craggers abandoning Gri-Gri. I certainly don't want to be belayed with one: short-rope fest. If anything, I'd give TRE a good try, played with in a store, no money though... But, back to the cams. Anybody knows the story?

What happened to this cam? The info on the web implied the'd be out this summer. And the link all don't work... Thank you.

LYlek, I have the 2004 Quark and attached the Viper Android to it, no width or other problems. Gotta get a longer screw, drill a hole and enlarge the existing one. Note that 2003 model has the holes much higher and you'd need to drill your own - 3 extra holes per tool. Don_Serl, I tried Ergos just a month ago and am totally sold on those, just too expensive for me. Although I tried at Big Four on somewhat softer ice and with screwed-up picks (demo pair), the swing still was very indicative of the general issues - which is no issues. I stuck it into vertical, overhanging and dinner-plating ice without any discomfort. The only time it was harder to use is on flat surface topping out - trying to get a stick to a horizontal surface from below. The upper handrest hits the surface and you are unsure of the stick. Minor issue, just change tactics. It is an awesome tool, just swing it onto ice, don't play in the store, huge difference. You'll see! Hey, people, is there anybody by chance who'd want to exchange Ergos for my Cobras with 3 extra new picks and Android leashes? I'd even throw in a brand new Grivel Americano! Oh, well... Happy Thanksgiving!

Feathered Friends rents Vipers, try it. I hated the tool - the swing felt more awkward than anything else I tried (on real ice, climbing). Thanks, REI, for return policy.

Huh, expensive, you say... So what is an acceptable price? Those even on sale are over $200/each.

Dru, have you sent sherpas any gear or money? Just wondering... KubeK, it is true though that regular folk here will not be able to ship gear. I send things to my mom in Moscow, and it is very expensive. Gear is heavy. I am curious what others do around you. It can't be that only sponsored ones climb. Even then they'd have to learn somehow. So share the stories. My friend said that in Crimea they used to use tight fitting rubber overbooties (galosha) for rock shoes.

Bug, I don't get it, so it has to be a 3-dayer? Oh well, just take digital pics and post... Good weather to you!

Who can elaborate on the BD Eldorado vs. that new BD Firstlight for WA's winter overnights? And how far can it be pushed for use in other areas? Any testimonials? I have the Eldo but am curious if I can "exchange" for the Firstlight + extra cash...

The 2004 model is the one that comes with the handrest attachments. They are removable. If you get the older model - you'd have to pay for the attachments separately. I got my pair from http://www.ProMountainSports.com. Quark Ergo - anybody wants to exchange a pair for a pair of BD Cobras? Just to be clear though - Cobra is a great tool too.

I was there less than a month ago trying some ice tools. Not bad at all. Not like lots of ice, but one can get a good pump climbing overhanging ice. Try topping out on the overhanging part, it's qute challenging because your friend wouldn't want to spot you cramponed self and the ground is covered with sharp rocks. Use the cave to the right, it is bigger, 15-18 feet max.

I have both Cobra's and regular Quark's. Quark IS lighter of the two by my own weighing and the specs. It also comes with a handrest that makes leashless a bit easier and can protect the pinky from bashing and getting wet. I like the swing of Quark's a bit more and would even like to sell my Cobra tools (I even took pics, but have no extra money for Ergo's ). BTW, the leash hole on the newest Quark model is lower so the BD Viper Android leash can be accomodated A specualtion - it might be easier to attach some sort of second, higher hand restfor leashless to Quark.

Lots of things, nothing (!) is ever simple. The one word of caution with the new (not the old blue) Freney's is their sole. It is soft and will give the wearer hard time edging on slippery,snow covered slopes. They had this on their Alpha's and I noticed they changed the material last year. I personally had this problem but intuitively just couldn't accept the obvious "operator error" verdict (I just wasn't that bad, damn it ). After a while someone else confirmed my experience, and then later I saw the changed sole... I don't think this is deeming the shoe "second class", but perhaps puts it below the "top-most".

This is great! Is the trail ready or just being worked on? Also, I remember seeing somewhere a map for the Cougar Mtn running trails. The WTA site doesn't have it. Anybody know where to get one, or has a copy? I'd appreciate it

Sent you a PM.

BCD, give me some credit, man It is a no-brainer to repro with a bolt in one hand and a q-draw in another, why would I ask for an example of such an obvious case? If you look at a real-life scenarios, through the years of your climbing career, you would most likely come to the conclusion that having draws only one way or another does not make a difference. If circumstances are right, the unclipping could happen in both cases. I am sure this has happened, but what is the likelyhood? That's the scenario I was asking for, from your experience, not just speculatively. Slabs, overhangs, vertical, change of direction that should happen, climbing or clipping, etc. are the things that are going to affect the unclipping. I say this "concern" is negligible, that's my point.

Backcountrydog, what if you give a scenario for this, please? I can see it happen if several things all happen at once. And I think the real-life probability of the same circustances making the same-way oriented draw to fail is the same as in opposing-oriented draw case. I use same-way only because it is easier to know which way to clip more intuitively, without extra thinking. Any actual tests to reproduce the "failure" with some degree of consistency?

http://www.barrabes.com/barrabes/product.asp?dept_id=152&pf_id=4748&opt= I used this since 2000, still alive Wet the rope before applying. Either R&I or Climbing had a little "Ask PMI" insert about this and PMI said it was OK to use markers. I might be able to look it up for you, if there is time

How much? I'll give you $10 + postage.

1. Out of curiosity, could anyone please tell me what the grade is for the climb with the artificial hold? And the other chipped ones too, please. 2. The route creation ethics is not a simple issue, as much as we'd like it to be. And the viewpoints do largely depend on experience, exposure and attitude towards climbing. Consensus on a specific issue is tough to come up with and ultimately, it all comes down to a measurable, tangible action. Voting is one of them. So, to answer the question above, I join those who are against 1)convenience bolting 2)artificial (plastic) holds for any reason whatsoever 3)"dumbing down" of existing routes by any means or reasons whatsoever that alter the rock, or add to it (glueing). (scoff, putting a bolt 8 feet above flat ground is a sign of inexperience and just stju-pidity, one better know before considering themselves a route developer) And, as long as I am posting, Dane's posts in this thread have all been coherent, informative, logical and delivered a clear point. I personally sensed no egomaniacal notes. On the contrary, and to my greatest disapointment, the Access Fund posts were useless, not even right or wrong. I have been paying since 1999 and am sure AF does good things. But, yo, dude, don't get too arrogant out there, eh. Same for you, Matt P. Like "WE know what to do". Dane has done a good service by exposing and voicing, and on national level too. I have never seen anything like "Dishman treatment", way,way worse than Leland's "comfy" routes. "How you gonna find time to chop all those and start...?" If I personally see "Dishman" type treatment at the local gems - it's not that hard to conjure up compact chop-chop tools, no dummies here. Finally, it would help to drop jargon like "sporto" and the like, doesn't help. Bolts are easy to remove if trends change, but altered rock is lost forever. Years ago I suggested special rating, like the euro E, but the logical opposite, say CH (for chicken). So bolts every 3 feet get CH10, and so on. Even cute icons could be developed...