Rafael_H

This is great! Is the trail ready or just being worked on? Also, I remember seeing somewhere a map for the Cougar Mtn running trails. The WTA site doesn't have it. Anybody know where to get one, or has a copy? I'd appreciate it

Sent you a PM.

BCD, give me some credit, man It is a no-brainer to repro with a bolt in one hand and a q-draw in another, why would I ask for an example of such an obvious case? If you look at a real-life scenarios, through the years of your climbing career, you would most likely come to the conclusion that having draws only one way or another does not make a difference. If circumstances are right, the unclipping could happen in both cases. I am sure this has happened, but what is the likelyhood? That's the scenario I was asking for, from your experience, not just speculatively. Slabs, overhangs, vertical, change of direction that should happen, climbing or clipping, etc. are the things that are going to affect the unclipping. I say this "concern" is negligible, that's my point.

Backcountrydog, what if you give a scenario for this, please? I can see it happen if several things all happen at once. And I think the real-life probability of the same circustances making the same-way oriented draw to fail is the same as in opposing-oriented draw case. I use same-way only because it is easier to know which way to clip more intuitively, without extra thinking. Any actual tests to reproduce the "failure" with some degree of consistency?

http://www.barrabes.com/barrabes/product.asp?dept_id=152&pf_id=4748&opt= I used this since 2000, still alive Wet the rope before applying. Either R&I or Climbing had a little "Ask PMI" insert about this and PMI said it was OK to use markers. I might be able to look it up for you, if there is time

Bought to try. Placed just 3 times at Big Four. Impeccable condition. You save the tax + $18. Now want to try the DMM Revolution.

How much? I'll give you $10 + postage.

1. Out of curiosity, could anyone please tell me what the grade is for the climb with the artificial hold? And the other chipped ones too, please. 2. The route creation ethics is not a simple issue, as much as we'd like it to be. And the viewpoints do largely depend on experience, exposure and attitude towards climbing. Consensus on a specific issue is tough to come up with and ultimately, it all comes down to a measurable, tangible action. Voting is one of them. So, to answer the question above, I join those who are against 1)convenience bolting 2)artificial (plastic) holds for any reason whatsoever 3)"dumbing down" of existing routes by any means or reasons whatsoever that alter the rock, or add to it (glueing). (scoff, putting a bolt 8 feet above flat ground is a sign of inexperience and just stju-pidity, one better know before considering themselves a route developer) And, as long as I am posting, Dane's posts in this thread have all been coherent, informative, logical and delivered a clear point. I personally sensed no egomaniacal notes. On the contrary, and to my greatest disapointment, the Access Fund posts were useless, not even right or wrong. I have been paying since 1999 and am sure AF does good things. But, yo, dude, don't get too arrogant out there, eh. Same for you, Matt P. Like "WE know what to do". Dane has done a good service by exposing and voicing, and on national level too. I have never seen anything like "Dishman treatment", way,way worse than Leland's "comfy" routes. "How you gonna find time to chop all those and start...?" If I personally see "Dishman" type treatment at the local gems - it's not that hard to conjure up compact chop-chop tools, no dummies here. Finally, it would help to drop jargon like "sporto" and the like, doesn't help. Bolts are easy to remove if trends change, but altered rock is lost forever. Years ago I suggested special rating, like the euro E, but the logical opposite, say CH (for chicken). So bolts every 3 feet get CH10, and so on. Even cute icons could be developed...

Used Sarken w/sidelock last winter - absolutely love it!!!

OK, left: 5.10 Mountain Master women's shoes, size 7. Very little used, my wife doesn't like them. $45. --------- "OR Pro" gloves. Size Medium. ---------

Check you PM's.

Someone wants to see them (OR Mitts) this Sunday. I'll let you know.

Where is this? The pic says Outer Space but it looks harder...

The Grivel screw and one of the Smiley's are sold.

I replied )

Need to sell unused gear, priced to sell, all in good condition. Screws never had any falls or other damage. OR Mitts, Size Large, GoreTex Seam-Sealed with also Gore-Tex warm liners. Hardly used. Has that very durable palm material. $25 OR Pro gloves. Size Medium. Same very durable palm, great for rappelling on ice, decided to use the leather gloves for raps... No liners. $15 OR Gore-Tex glove liners, size XL, $5. These are warm and have been useful, I got warmer ones 2 Smiley Ice screws, 22cm, used, teeth are sharp as new, with "coffee grinder" knobs. $10/ea 1 Grivel 360 Ice Screw, 17cm with individual holster. Very little used, sharp, looks like brand new (all my other screws are BD so is not racking compatible). $15. 5.10 Mountain Master women's shoes, size 7. Very little used, my wife doesn't like them. $45. Regards, Rafael

I've been using The Windshirt since at least 2000, it's been great. The older material I had was stroner than new, BTW. But, I would like to see what other brands have to offer. Anybody used the Arcteryx stuff? Dru, knock-knock, thoughts? Just from looking I am assuming the Switchback would be slightly warmer and more breathable if it's not windy. How much worse is it though when it blows? Well, perhaps the $25 sale is the deciding factor

My Great Wild Thigs Windshirt was stolen, so I thought of looking at other ones before replacing. Who has comparative experience/info on Arcteryx Switchback shirt, Anabatic jacket/pullover and the WildThing Windshirt? Thank you!

Keylock is superior in general, especially on the gear (not rope) side of a draw and for racking. Wait for Heliums I'd say. Dropping can occur with any 'biner. But, the devil is the details. DMM Wirelock's don't fit through many chains, nor do Heliums, not a problem in alpine except for old bolt hangers, so mix with other kind. I prefer BD Hotwire, most comfortable wiregate, superb in versatility for ice climbing.

Was looking for partner, noticed INTEL, clicked and got this thread... Well, cannot resist. "..war is an inappropriate tool for winning hearts and minds" you say? Well, I think you're living in isolation. I am afraid enough hearts and minds are won already to re-elect the &^%(&(*)& dude. Millenia-old trick...

Thanks for reply. I sent you a PM. Rafael

Hi. I am looking for a partner for regular weekday workouts, after work. My goal is to get back in shape and bump one number grade up, solid, by spring (for me 11+, redmond gym 12-). Gym bouldering is too injury prone... We can consider outside climbing too but for specific (bigger) objectives as usually I crag with my wife... Let's start, partnership possibilities are endless! Email works better for me.

All cams sold. Thanks to everybody who expressed an interest. Happy climbing! Rafael

I apologize to all that sent me PM, I just checked my email last night and replied to the first person that offered to buy all. SUper-busy at work!!! I will post the results and do a better job replying. Best Regards, R