Rafael_H

At Home De-Pot i saw an assortment of wire cables and the strength posted on the cable the same size as on nuts is 125 pounds! What da hell?!!! It was not a typo either as a wire as thick as my pinky was 850 lbs. Then the same evening I came acrossa book that said "to safely lift a 16 ton object you need a cable 2 inches in diameter". Something's wrong. Can anybody explain, please? Thank you.

To add: I feel that leaving some gear far in the mountains for several days to be retrieve later and without a note is not the smartest thing to do.

quote: Originally posted by Stefan: Would I take rope if it was fixed to large rock wall? No. Why? Becuase it is traditionally found that someone is probably using it as fixed line completing a route. Would I take a fixed line in the Cascades and no one around on a moderate route? Once again, I will say yes, because in the Cascades it is traditional that no one leaves stuff behind--coming across a rope hanging there on a route in the Cascades is highly unusual. Mattski if you are a guide, then you definitely have pencil and paper to leave a note--it is part of your first aid kit. This discussion would never happen in the Alps. If you leave anything behind, you will never see it again--wether you are a guide or not. Well, Stefan, 2 years ago I rapped down Breakfast of Champions at dusk and the ropes got stuck. We were late for Greg's party so left the ropes, got up very early in the morning and with pounding hearts rushed to the ropes and got them. Now what if you were there just as we were approaching? Would you be fighting for the "just" ownership of the ropes? What if I met you coming down with my ropes? 5 mintes later? Is it any different from passing by and not helping: "you screwed up, not me"? Alps don't matter, it's a matter of personal ethics. As you can see everybody's assumptions were wrong in Matt's case and he was around. This is a tough question, a rusty cam, scratched nut stuck on the third pitch are different from a pair of shoes at the base of a crag and I am really just against that cowboy attitude towards "booty" exhibited by far too many people I know.

Just a bit more. -Where does one get 5/16 buttonheads, HW store? Will just a regular stainless steel bolt do? Should one trust such a buttonhead when encountered (I haven't so far)? -Has sanybody used those removable bolts that look like Lowe Balls? -Is it still bad if the 1/4" is stainless and has a hanger? How should one bolt those weird and insecure handcracks: every 2 or 3 feet? "Disclaimer": The likelihood of me installing any bolts is very-very low. Yet I consider it foolish to be unaware of this option and its proper use.

quote: Originally posted by EddieE: ... saran wrap ... Never heard off this but sounds logical. Have you used it? What for and how do you keep it?

Yes! In fact, even if epic, what if those 2 nuts save someone else's ass maybe years later. Stuck gear and biners on V-threads is different though. I personally don't mind returning to the owners nevertheless.

Almost lost my sun-glasses at the base of Cathedral this June, ran back and got them. It was then when I changed my mind on booty. My friend who is very good and sharp and loves booty almost left his $100 glasses, good thing I noticed. I don't criticize Stefan, myself went to get the cam from Tooth, almost cleaned a bunch of gear on Forbidden (didn't want to delay the party though), but think it is more honorable to return the booty, if possible of course. I lost a quick draw in L-worth myself for the first time and would really appreciate to get it back.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: ... Oh and where can I get a non Smoot guidebook? ... [This message has been edited by Cpt.Caveman (edited 08-31-2001).] I have a thin guidebook I got from Jim Nelson, you can borrow. Never made it there though.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I hear Peter Puget is good at installing them (DDD?) Installing what, bolts or...?

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: ...Let us know how it works after you test it out. Remeber, the item 4 started with that short word... Unless there is a special diet, so one can do before an expedition.

quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: For emergency bailing: ... 4) If you've got a pencil dick it should easily fit into a 1/4" hole. And if you need help keeping it up, just think of Christian Griffith in Danskins. That's more fit for belay anchors. Also gotta be able to concentrate really well!

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Lucky, if you ever see this fucker out there and I am around let me know so I can smash his face in Then I can hire Mattp to get me out of trouble! Or you can teach him how to climb (whether he wants it or not) and...

Well, I saw a cam on the Tooth and even went back to retrieve it. The cam was left on the South Face at least 1.5 months ago. It does need some work, cleaning and lubrication, possibly replacing the sling. If You still want it back, describe the piece and the exact place.

Is it faster to hand-drill with 1/4" bit? What is best put in such a hole for emergency bailing or new routes? Thanks.

quote: Originally posted by Mr. Blister: Tim: I hate you. You'll never get a job at Expedia!!! Think about that next time you flash a long alpine rock route while I'm at home with the kids!!! XOXOXO, Blisterin' Goodtime [This message has been edited by Mr. Blister (edited 08-28-2001).] Can I get one? I didn't flash any alpine routes, just climbed at Index, so boooring, and was thinking about the computers all the time...

quote: Originally posted by Colin: On some rap anchors I have seen rap rings which are oval shaped rather than the normal circular shape. I would really like to get my hands on some of these, but in stores I have never seen anything but the normal circular rap rings. Does anyone know where they can be found? Same aluminum or titanium kind? Never seen one... I suppose you liked it because of the knot not passing it? I feel it could be some Kong item.

Will, right on! Dwayner, there is still some dark colour there, get over it, people. We a l l have to bend over. Why is more Java code or counting somebody's money or whatever any more "dignifying" than writing a good actually book? Actors/artist are often bitches, I love their work! Or Bill Gates has too much money... Yeah, yeah, yawn.