Rafael_H

Used Sarken w/sidelock last winter - absolutely love it!!!

Where is this? The pic says Outer Space but it looks harder...

I've been using The Windshirt since at least 2000, it's been great. The older material I had was stroner than new, BTW. But, I would like to see what other brands have to offer. Anybody used the Arcteryx stuff? Dru, knock-knock, thoughts? Just from looking I am assuming the Switchback would be slightly warmer and more breathable if it's not windy. How much worse is it though when it blows? Well, perhaps the $25 sale is the deciding factor

My Great Wild Thigs Windshirt was stolen, so I thought of looking at other ones before replacing. Who has comparative experience/info on Arcteryx Switchback shirt, Anabatic jacket/pullover and the WildThing Windshirt? Thank you!

Keylock is superior in general, especially on the gear (not rope) side of a draw and for racking. Wait for Heliums I'd say. Dropping can occur with any 'biner. But, the devil is the details. DMM Wirelock's don't fit through many chains, nor do Heliums, not a problem in alpine except for old bolt hangers, so mix with other kind. I prefer BD Hotwire, most comfortable wiregate, superb in versatility for ice climbing.

Was looking for partner, noticed INTEL, clicked and got this thread... Well, cannot resist. "..war is an inappropriate tool for winning hearts and minds" you say? Well, I think you're living in isolation. I am afraid enough hearts and minds are won already to re-elect the &^%(&(*)& dude. Millenia-old trick...

Thanks for reply. I sent you a PM. Rafael

Hi. I am looking for a partner for regular weekday workouts, after work. My goal is to get back in shape and bump one number grade up, solid, by spring (for me 11+, redmond gym 12-). Gym bouldering is too injury prone... We can consider outside climbing too but for specific (bigger) objectives as usually I crag with my wife... Let's start, partnership possibilities are endless! Email works better for me.

Bigger size, on the first pitch of Outer Space on Sunday, June 16 at about 14:30. Specify the size, codition, marking and the 'biner in order to claim. email to rafael@triaddsoftware.com [ 06-17-2002, 10:09 AM: Message edited by: Rafael H ]

Eric, what kind of restoration of the Lower Wall?! Retro, save the money, environment (less gas) and forces of goodness. Stay home, please. Dwayner, just sit back and re-read you own posts...

Global economy is good for an average consumer w/ avg needs. With climbing being so narrow in scope and highly specialized, Climbing's view and predictions are most likely true. I suport it knowing even knowing its futility

No, not a leopard skin, just some poor polymer's skin...

I guess no Lost&Found category is going to be added. So here it is: found last weekend, with a 'biner. Describe to claim.

Oh, and one more thing. Top roping is not in the same category as crack, alpine, bouldering, sport, etc. It is to learn to climb or to learn a route to lead it. Otherwise imagine someone saying: "no, you can't climb Everest! We've been looking at it for 100 years, afraid to approach. And you want to climb it?" As to Pope, I really wonder what his true motives are. Getting old and not having any recognition? Or smth like that. He should first remove the bolts he himself put up, if they are "so ugly"!

The face route to the right of the Dogleg is a very good, non-trivial 10a and a good lead climb. It’s been there for two years. Removing it is completely unreasonable! As would be any L-worth bolted slab route!!! Last year I asked to list all the bolted cracks and got a measly 15 routes, 90 percent are in Vantage. And “poop” didn’t even respond. Is he just looking for confrontation? Radical anti-bolt actions will not help the problem of (more and more commonplace) overbolting. Rather the problem is (and will be) dismissed along with annoying, and incapable, Poup and Co. A consensus needs to be built, not confrontation.

It seems that the recent park closures also include the 38. I wonder if that means we will be prosecuted for using or it is just lack of toilet and the parking lot?

payaso: They were just doing their job, they MUST contact you because of an established procedure. Doesn't mean anything in regards to their intentions or smarts. Retrosaurus: It is not like the bridges are washed out, it is about ACCESS! You can easily be restricted to even go that direction, on foot or not. That's what's important and I too suspect a hidden agenda. "Evil doers". They may also be concerned about the instability above the road because of the fires, so in a typical fashion just chop the head, get rid of the headache.

quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: From where are the Kayland Spiders sold? Their website, www.kayland.com, isn't helpful in finding dealers. Check out the Feathered Friends in Seattle or call them. They carried the shoe last year, I didn't pay attention to their current display.

Hmmm, REI can be a good idea, especially if they lobby too. I sent money and wrote a letter (while poupe was lurking around counting bolts ) as soon as the Climbing first mentioned it. But there is really no dialog when writing to "elected"-s, just "received" notes. Is there a way to have a meaningful feedback?

I fell just once on a friction slab, on Local Boys Do Good in Squamish. It was just like a regular fall. I overstretched, no-no on friction, and the next thing I knew I was dangling. I fell 10-12 feet though so possibly, if the fall is long and you feel the peeling, you could decide to run... But I seriously doubt it. Perhaps if it is 5.0, really low angle. Not in my bag of tricks.

quote: Originally posted by Gordonb: What do you guys mean by it is best never to fall? If you always climb with the idea that you can't fall how do you advance and try new skills? I am new to climbing and I expect to be falling a lot while I am working on technique, and I do. I do almost all my climbing on TR right now. If I started out with the idea that I couldn't fall then I would be stuck on 5.7s. I know that many of you would NEVER be seen on a bolted sport climb, so how do you push the limits of your skills? Or are you that are the deriding sport climbers the same ones that are hanging (and I mean hanging) around Vertical World complaining about the route grades? Right on Gordon! I haven't found a solution to the fear problem but getting used to falling on a good, bomber pro (bolt) is definitely helpful. Start leading though, even one route is good. As you start progressing through the grades on top-rope it will be harder and harder to do marginal moves on lead if your mind is not conditioned to that. How do "bolt complainers" progress? Easy, in their (wishful) dreams! As to the original issue, I think there are two ways to combat fear: directly commanding your body and mind or by fooling its defenses with chemistry, testosteron boosting, concentrating on something very limited in scope like the current or next move, repetition, etc.The first method is hard, I doubt many (posibly none) climbers use it. But I know some people that come somewhat close.My guess is that for an average case, me included, it would be the most effective to use repetition and "psyching". I just started to ski and am scared of the speed, but I see those kids, barely the height of my knee zip by... The more you do (climbing to the limit and falling) and the earlier you start, the better can you cope with the fear of falling.The extreme ends of total control and total "switch off" with drugs are more rare and harder to achive (or live with in case of drugs) in my opinion. In my case the funny thing is that I used to be able to "psyche" myself (w/music, "I'll show them" and what not) but cannot anymore because I find it to be rather pathetic means, but I haven't replaced that with anything. Not yet, anyway.

quote: Originally posted by Gordonb: I don't have any fear of falling (I get lots and lots of practice), but I have not done any trad climbs. Will my casual attitude to falling get me in trouble when I start doing trad climbs? (in two weeks at Smith) As a sport climber I have a lot of confidence in my protection. As long as your pro is good... If you have a casual attitude to falling and no knowledge of placing pro - trouble awaits, otherwise it is actually easier, as many have said, you can "saw up" cracks. My friend sometimes puts two cams in cases where they point straight up (think Zebra).

quote: Originally posted by chucK: Did your belayer take in rope while you were falling? That can cause the falling climber to whip into the wall harder, so usually you don't want to do that. In your case though he/she also had to worry about you decking. That's what I was ultimately interested in, because falling from the second bolt, unless they are very close, should have created some slack. Were you at the first bolt, above, below? Perhaps the terrain... Well, I wish you (Allison) well and happy climbing, don't be discouraged.

So, Allison, I am very interested, how many feet to the ground you were after being caught(hitting youl feet)? Thank you.