Rafael_H

Try highrises. Good training for climbving Everest under a chemical attack.

I personally saw this at Index. A guy set a top-rope on Iron Horse with his rope running through a Gri-Gri, a rope bag with some weight on the break side and himself on the climber's side. While the weight (bag) was free-hanging everything went smoothly. Then the wall bulged out a bit and the bag wouldn't come down. The guy was pretty amaized, said he'd done this before and, this is the funny thing, climbed unbelayed quite a ways. He was going to hit the deck if fell. Then he hung on to the rock while i tied a Jumar to his rope. I forgot if he had another one hanging or what, I just had to climb a short way up, to the first good stance. Anyway, if the route is overhanging then it can work. No lowering though!

what da hell is autosig?

How does one get to Mazama from Seattle now? Through Wenatchee? How close is it possible to drive to the Washington Pass? Anybody? I saw a pic of Steve House climbing on South EW Spire.

quote: Originally posted by Alex: Rafael, for 24.95 I will send you an autographed print of myself climbing South EW Spire.... Weird business, Alex, why would you sell your poster for less than postage (34.000049 cents)? You don't mean 24 bucks, do you? For that you'd have to be published in "Climbing" first, eh? BTW, are you Alex Bertulis? I was interested in the FA of the North Face of Nooksack in 1973. Pretty cool. OK, Beck and others, where do you park you car in winter? The place you described is I think before the campground, which would be covered anyway. It is too long of a drive to just explore, min $60 both ways.

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: Who are you refering to dude? Who are you refering to dude?

Aha, thanks!

.To Dru:More than placing pro leading ice is a test for the head (e.g. why waste time and energy placing a crappy screw that won't hold) where runouts are big. This makes TR-ing even more dangerous for those who want to lead. I think (and do) that TR-ing ice is best to learn new (never climbed before) ice conditions. For example I onsighted a 5+ ice I could easily read and backed off and then TR-ed another WI5 in totally different shape I never climbed before. One needs to learn how different ice holds, how to get a stick, etc. That's once. After that it's pure head (or... ). It is fine to strive for 100% safe climbing, just pick an appropriate tag though (not arrogant, that's just the way it is). BTW, I found that those large cauliflowers with very long - 5-6+ feet - thin stem-icicles just need to be broken away to get to the more consolidated ice below. One can hook and stand on the top of a cauliflower only after getting to it. That's what I learned by tr-ing. To Cavey:Cheerios brains are OK, but nuts get too sticky...

Better to lead at Rambles than TR the Deeping Wall (dodge) (yea, yea I did too but don't make a big deal )

I saw pikas running up and down rocks with a great ease but suppose gym rats would have a hard time, wouldn't they

quote: Originally posted by Dru: "shreddie" and "closet Secrets" are at the Rambles and the former at least is WI6 the latter is multipitch WI4 or 4+ I think?. some easy route. What is "shreddie" and "closet secrets" ?????Where the hell is that stuff?! Thank you.

quote: Originally posted by Heinouscling: Sprague (a CC.com lurker... Lurker with such a name...

BTW, Lillo'wet is a small town around Pemberton, south on 99

DB, thank you! Perhaps I'll go check it out on Monday.

so what do you think?

going for snow slogging this w-end. no $ for Ca every w-end

quote: Originally posted by dberdinka: I'm a 'Hamster who's spent a fair amount of time skiing the BC around the end of Highway 542. In several years a massive flow has formed on the backside of "Hemispheres" in Swift Creek Drainage. I'm not much of an ice climber but I'd guess 500+' of WI4-5-?. Unfortunately I've never seen it touch down. Kinda like Terminator in leaner times. While touring around Table Mtn, only once has the infamous Death Picnic appeared fat in the last couple of years. Have at it boys. Thanks, dberdinka. Have you seen the flow recently? Where is that location more precisely? Could you please describe or point out a map location? Thank you.

Pro-popper, check your PM & email.

Pro_popper, where do you want to mixed climb? Around here w/camping or far away "moteling"? I'd go locally.

Leashless is a totally different ball game, try it, on lead, before dismissing! I guarantee all the nonsense about "aid" will quickly evaporate. Haven't tried the specialized handles but doubt they equal a leash.

quote: Originally posted by dan e: I bought the BD SpaceShot for my Rockies trip and I used it to approach murchison falls. After hiking for a while I realized I could get by with just the LED, which provides just enough light to see where you are going. So far I think this is the best headlamp I've ever owned, I previously used the Petzl Zoom and Micro. The fact that it has two bulbs (one halogen and one LED, plus an optional Xenon bulb and NiCad rechargable battery and also spare power made it the only choice for me). The only annoying thing is the external battery supply, but you get used to it and it helps save precious battery life. Dan E. Great idea, but FYI, the SpaceShot with batteries is heavier than a Zoom and a Tikka combined (both w/batteries). I have the latter setup and they both fit on my head w/o helmet. Another FYI, off the topic: Zipka works w/helmet (Petzl Ecrin) very well.

Thank you, Andy and The Access Fund! It is difficult to do justice with words in appreciation of your efforts.

quote: Originally posted by TimL: A couple of days before Christmas I took a friend to the GNS. While rapping off I noticed someone sunk a pin into the lower part of the 5.10c corner/thin crack boulder problem Was the pin still there?

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: ... I dont get that thaw freeze needles in hands feeling any more. ... FYI, those are called "screaming barfies", captain

I was at Private Idaho and most of the hard face/friction climbs were very mossy, perhaps nobody climbed those this last summer, perhaps for several years. I am going to this coming dry season and will even clean them if necessary. I wouldn't want somebody to bolt-ladder them or chip holds. "Yos", I don't imply you are ignorant of the issues, I just think that if there is any doubt, it is better to not pound in pins and Index is definitely high on the "doubt" scale. I think that there are places all over where one can play with A4-5. And I suspect that if it's A1-3 one doesn't need to train while ascending, just pound the pins in big stones and get the feel of it. Other logistics can be worked out doing "clean" aid. Aid experts, correct me here, please. Haven't been to the Garden Wall but Cramer's book lists 4 10d-11b climbs there.