Rafael_H

Please, please, please don't hack the hell out of the ice, friends! Thank you for the update, Lyle. Caveman, see you around on Friday-Mon

"Outdoor and More" on Westlake has them for $69.95. They are not any better in my opinion than BD's latest ones, but not worse and actually affordable.

I have seen a pick sharpened like a knife myself just recently. It rolls pretty nicely when hit on rock The perfect angle is a trade off between penetration and durability. I think that the penetration occurs/starts at the point and not the edge of the pick so a correct shape is more important. Mags posted the correct shape several times last couple of years. BD Cobra comes almost perfect out of the factory. I also think that once the first tooth is filed off it is impossible to repair it adequately, even disregarding the length. Anybody?

Ha, I get it now, the names, I mean , pretty cool. Don't mess with Cascades looks like Sorry to hear somebody died. Pencil is thick but didn't touch the bottom. [ 12-20-2001: Message edited by: Rafael H ]

quote: Originally posted by JayB: 1. Less prep before placing the screw. When placing a BD screw one has to clean a circle 4" in diameter in order to crank the screw in all the way to the hanger... I have to pass on the beta I got: when placing a BD or similar screw it is possible to hit the lever with a hammer to pass through minor bulges instead of cleaning them. I tried and it works well.

Thanks, Jay, that's a pity. I have too many 22's and need more shortys. Alas... Happy climbing! [ 12-20-2001: Message edited by: Rafael H ]

One of the climbs that definitely stood out for me was Grotto Canyon, very cool approach and beaiutiful surroundings. Climbing is not bad if you count in the mixed routes, but very well worth visiting.

Last year this time I was climbing ice at Alpental and Lillooet. And now... there is nothing there yet!

quote: Originally posted by JayB: ... Also - I'll be flying out to Seattle this Sunday, and will happily trade my BD express screws (22cm) for 22cm 360s if they are in comparable condition (the BD's are more or less in mint condition).... I have a 17cm 360 with that racking sleeve in a mint(!!!) condition. Want to trade for a BD Express 17 or shorter in the same condition? [ 12-20-2001: Message edited by: Rafael H ]

epb, the Sabertooth frontpoints look flat headed, like a screwdriver but shoud be sharp out of the box. If not you can probably exchange them or do warranty stuff with BD. If impossible I for one would be happy to buy them from you. On the other hand, keep them and you won't regret when climbing steep ice.

I have both and used them side by side the whole last week. Cobras are way better for a beginner. One can get a better stick right away and your hand is more protected from getting wet before you master the technique. Same, or even more so, for bashing the knuckles. I think Rages have a small advantage on lower angle terrain when I wanted to go fast and was gripping the tool anywhere along the shaft. Obviously the aluminum makes them more fit for high abuse cituations. In all cases make sure the leashes are long enough with the gloves on - pinky touches the spike.

Was cleaning my gear from the recent (first) trip to Banff and decided to share my findings. Crampons. I used BD Bionic, Sabertooth and previously Grivel Rambo. I was amazed when, at my friend's advice, I tried Sabertooths on ice up to WI4, they worked better than monopoint Bionics! Later after switching to monos I really missed the Sabertooths. I feel that in most conditions where ice is not smooth up to WI5+ I prefer the Sabertooth (I think it's not just the dual points that do the magic butu the overall design of the front part). Although I think that for climbing rock a monopoint is better for me I saw a guy climb M6+ in his Sabertooths and do all the drop-knees and back steps and what not very smoothly. I found that matching feet is easier with monos. Ice tools.I used BD Cobras and Rages. While very close Cobras do perform better, just easier to get a good stick. I'd use Rages in high abuse situations. Leashes.BD Android sucks for me, no justification for any moderate use: ice (WI5), rock(M6+), snow. For mixed routes it is easier to just drop the tool to protect and then re-grab it. One can also strap the leashes to the tool close to the hand with velcro - easier to grab but would be harder to place screws. Advanced climbers have a better chance with Adroids for mixed climbing because it takes more skill, experience and strength to hang the tool on yourself or the other one, unclip the Android and clip back to it without dropping it. Screws.BD Express rules! I find that CM Laser bites and screws in better but the absence of a crank handle is a significant disadvantage. Ice clippers.4 racking carabiners is the better or screws fall out. BD Ice Clipper is great. Mountain Magic in Banff is out of rubber ID's, bring from home. Gloves.BD Ice Glove once again proved crappy: not dexterous enough to lead or rappel (setting and breaking the stations). They also froze up and became very stiff. Still very cold. I use Seirus slalom gloves ($70 at REI) and so far it is the most dexterous warm glove I've seen. Check out the newest Lowe Alpine ice climbing glove. My very exeperienced friend uses only thin gloves, but then he got screamin' barfies all the time, i had none. Of course gear matters less for more experienced but cold and very early starts are a challenge enough for my bones... And, finally, there I was, climbing M14 with a sandwich between my teeth when... Oh, oops, wrong place

Cutting switchbacks sucks! quote: Originally posted by slaphappy: ... How about the trail to Givler's Dome? ... How about the network of trails on the top of the mesa at Frenchman's Coulee? or the climber's "trail" from Blue Lake TH to the ridge below the South Arete?My point is, if there is an established trail, use it. What a lousy reason to further the restrictions at our playgrounds. Totally agree! Run the whole trail carc to car in 2 hours then brag about it. Top of the mesa at FC - screwed up, How hard is it to use the trgular trail?

quote: Originally posted by David Parker: We all suck at ice climbing. If we were any good, we wouldn't live in western Washington! Yeah, but it is closer to Banff than western Oregon...

In my experience, while what works depends on many variables, expensive gloves like BD Ice Glove are not worth the price. Moreover, I found them just not worthy in general. After some thought I decided to keep mine for... rappels. I may still sell them. I'd recommend trying all the inexpensive alternatives first having the emphasis on dexterity: it is best if one can climb without taking the gloves off to protect.

A quick question. So how can I create a link that when clicked on opens a new browser instance?

Nowadays the BD Blizzard harness comes with one Ice Clip.

quote: Originally posted by Rodchester: Does anyone know where you/I can buy some of those Arcterex Ice Devices? My buddy has these and they rock for racking screws. I have tried the Trango clips and they only suck a lot. I have tried the old bicycle tube on a bnet gate biner and it is OK...but those ice devices rock. Feathered Friends has them.

Osama Bill... What a guy. I wonder how far one like that can go? What if he was lobotomized and then directed to fight the Wilderness Fees But seriously: 1. Definitely shouldn't have used private property silently. Should not do it in the future either. From non-climbing owner's or any official manager's prospective restricting is the best: simple, no headaches and potential misinterpretation. 2. Could Access Fund purchase the cliffs only and establish a small trail easment, we'd all help build a single trail? What and how something like this was done in Squamish, at Smoke Bluffs? I wish all the bolt/no-boilt energy was directed towards access or improved, "advanced" access/ownership issues.

Heck, nobody wanted mine. How's $30: no defects, no tax, used just a couple of times, comes with the plastic holster?

If you have a week or more off anytime from now and on, let's go climbing. I like Smith but other not too distant areas can be considered. J-Tree (exception) - yes, yes, yes! Neither looking for nor willing to be a belay slave, just some cragging, gear or bolts, any difficulty. I have been climbing for 4 years and am a safe belayer. Rafael Haroutunian rafael@eastwestclinic.com

quote: Originally posted by Terminal Gravity: ... The CRUX of the bolt subject , as far as I see it this: Part of mountaineering and climbing for some people is adventure and figuring out on their own how to work with the rock to fight against gravity. A climber can choose how much beta they want; and therefore how much adventure they want to give up. But once a bolt is placed that part of adventure is gone forever and all those who follow will never be able to experience it. Even if most climbers will use and even appreciate a bolt next to a difficult to protect crack or one placed in between bolts that were placed by the first party; I think that it is terribly wrong to take away the possibility of exploration and adventure from all of thos who might follow. No one has the right to climb a route, they have to earn the ability. No one has the right to take the adventure out of climbing for all those who may want to follow. "I don't care if the rotary club climbs Everest all sucking O's through houka pipes connected to a giant tank at base camp; as long as they leave the mountain the way they found it"...Chounard Congrats, Gravity, good first cut (there I go again, sounding condescending. I AM not!) Just compare carefully your paragraph to Chounard's quote. If you consiously climb for the achievement of it (poor english?), for your own accomplishment, to challenge y o u r s e l f and win (which is why I believe we all climb, knowingly or not), then why do bolts matter? You can forget about them, skip some, solo. What if some Bob Jones soloed all the 5.15's in the world, face and crack, then tried to make a cause that cracks are cheating because you can put pro? Intact, you say? Well, if you stand behind everything you said before [the paragraph above] then the impact is not in bolting, is it? Oxygen bottles and shit left all over are different from bolts. I almost broke up with my good friend (basically gave him my last "warning") when he admitted to tossing a shit-bag from a wall. Chipping and drilling is a very different story and the issue should only be approached with a super-cool head. We certainly should if not to avoid then keep "Vantage-like" bolting to the bare minimum. I don't think it is grid-bolted but is closer to than anything I've ever seen before. So by excercising restraint we will avoid somebody putting 10 closely bolted routes 6 feet apart from each other. I don't see Leavenworth being anywhere(!) near that situation. I haven't yet seen the climb Retrosaurus mentioned and believe that Leavenworth is definitely not the place to bolt any route protectable by "natural pro". Yet there are some sensible standards, measures by which we choose to protect a route. Is a rap anchor 30' above the ground sensible pro? Has anyone climbed it like that?(!) If no then let's not arm up against putting the old/stolen/back-cleaned pro back and bolt is not a bad candidate. What do you think? Chocolate, you shine again [This message has been edited by Rafael H (edited 10-11-2001).]

quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: ... Right on, "Peter". Amen. That's what I was leading to. I was thinking of providing a basis for discussing "unjustly" bolted routes and quietly suspecting that there won't be many. Even with Vantage it turned out to be virtually non-issue! So I'd like to ask everybody if it is OK to drop the bolting issue, even for fun, for a while but keep a vigilant eye, of course. I suggest it is still appropriate to discuss how the routes are bolted because it may help to keep the bolting standard uniform throughout the state. Like at Smith, in my opinion, they've got it quite right and consistent. Hey, Nuts-y, is there a jar at Redpoint for donations? (Haven't been there this autumn yet). And thank you.

Great question, I am interested too. What does your current pack weigh and on which trips?

quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: Why? OK, don't. Which ones? How many?