jaee

It's statistically unlikely your head is so big. Therefore you can't have a head that big.

Anyone been into the sisters lately? It sounds as if the road is open to the trail head, but I never trust the forest service info. I assume the access from the S. still involves that extra slog from Bachelor. If I'm wrong, I'm sure you guys will let me know.

Just open the file using file->Open->Outlook Data File... and browse to the file. Must be in writeable location (not on cdr).

An accomplished endurance athelete™ would do it, just to show he could.

Aha! Wayne, is this something you've hinted at before (don't remember the venue) as the great unknown on hood? Glad you spilled it. I was fishing for a comment from you by listing NCHW. This way we'll get more SAR on the E. side.

Canadian Alpine Club info of course, if you read this: UIAA Notes it talks about one testing issue. However, below that it states that using a wet or iced rope decreases the number of falls by 67%. So, make sure your alpine rope never gets wet or icy, or if it does, discontinue use immediately

Steel Cliffs, now thru end o' april if you haven't already. What fun. 3 Sisters on skis M. Sister Ice Hose (NE face?) N. Sister Early Morning Couloir The ever classic Newton Clark Headwall Illumination rock Triple crown of the gorge: Dog, Ruckel, Defiance in a day. Make it special and swim the columbia

For the climb: Music device is good for sloggin' up the W. Butt. K-whale comes in good. Nothing like the beasties when skinning up ski hill Group of 3 or more, a Megamid is awesome for a kitchen where you can get out of the tent and socialize. You'll also reel in folks from other groups. Variety in food, don't just repeat the same 3-4 menus over and over (like I did). Don't forget the ramen. Foam cover taped around ice axe. Keeps your fingers from freezing Sweet bag (sleeping, that is ) Chair for thermarest 100% mandatory for 2 hour melt sessions Trash/Compactor bags for caches and hauling clean snow Foot powder for the end of the day sock changeover. Aaahh. XGK & some kind of stove board so you can cook IN the tent at 17k if necessary. If the wind is high you may not be able to in the vestibule. For the Butt, forget all the technical gear. Take an axe and picket each, with adequate rescue gear for a Z. Take one ascender and just use a daisy or runner for security when swapping at the anchors on the fixed lines. Batman down for fun For Basecamp Booze (Tequila, snow, lemon-lime gatorade = instant margaritas & many friends) Food - bring something great for when you get down. Some guy flew in with a hamburger, coke, and fries and sat down in front of 100+ climbers and started eating. He was living dangerously

Leaving at 6am tomorrow for Ouray. I'm sure it'll be melted by the time I get there. Just my luck.

Snoboy, Thanks for the info, just wanted to call your hand. I've used ortovox since the F2 (yuk) and had nothing but good luck with them. You do have good info. So far I've also used old trackers and the Arva 9000. The trackers seem to work well for folks with less practice. The arvas work well but there is a pause whenever you move away from the victim that takes some getting used to and wastes a few seconds. Another problem with the Arva is the switch to change modes is very easy to bump back to transmit while running during a search, leading to some confusion and more wasted time.

Yo Snoboy, Please justify your outright dismissal of Ortovox. I believe that the M2 still has one of the longest ranges of any beacon out there. I can understand if you don't want to train with a beacon why you'd want a tracker, but I believe that the M2 is a great beacon in the hands of a skilled user. I don't know much about the X1, but I did notice that it's priced below the M2, leading me to believe that the X1 is all digital but still underperforms the M2 in range and sensitivity.

According to the folks at Patagucci here in Portland, an entire shipping container of DAS parkas was stolen from the docks when they arrived in the US. Evidently, someone just drove up to the container and hooked it up to a semi, then drove away. So, look for some good deals on ebay, but expect the normal stores to have a hard time getting them.

Just to clarify: 2 gullies near the toe: 1st Gully is normal rap gully or 4th class ascent in summer? 2nd Gully is South Chamber? Does this fill in or is the second pitch hella steep if you exit right? The summit ridge of this thing blew me away in the summer. It's just piles of huge blocks that you can see thru. Gotta' go check it out. The Quarks are in Kentucky! Thanks Wayne. Are the topos in Oregon anywhere? How about a copy for ClimbMax?

Exactly, Tex. I believe you've put your finger on the crux of the matter. My value as a human being is minimal since I don't have as many posts on CascadeClimbers.com as you. Oh, to only be as cool as you. May I lick your boots? Getting a little hot aren't you, cowfuck? Since skiing sucks so much and you're such a hotshot "accomplished endurance athelete", my single point was that I bet you can't do the North Face of Buckner (which is, of course, not an especially impressive mountain), car to car, without skis, thru Boston Basin, over Sharkfin col, in 12 hours and 30 minutes. I don't care to compete against you. You were the knob spouting about skiing. I merely emphasized that skiing can be more efficient by using a classic example of the terrain that can be covered using skis. I offered to demonstrate this by a friendly wager of you jogging over Buckner and back to the car in 12.5 hours without skis. If you can beat or match a skier, you win. If you can't, you're a loser anyway. Evidently your reading comprehension is as poor as your social skills appear to be. I didn't attack you. I was simply debating your point. Since you lack those skills apparent in higher forms of life, you chose to attack me, rather than defend your point. Nuthin' like trollin' for trolls. Ignore this one, if you can...

So, Tex, what you're saying is ski mountaineering isn't worth discussing here because of the ski part. I suppose you're right Have you read Lowell Skoog's trip report on the North Face of Buckner in a day? It's in the rec.climbing archives. I'd say that was a good days work. If skis suck, and walking rules, howabout putting up some cash that says you can do the North Face of Buckner from the trailhead (via Bostin Basin & Sharkfin Col) in 12.5 hrs. Sound fair? Put up or shut-up

* stopped friend from cutting down tree by putting foot in the way. Small compound fracture. * played cowboys & indians with bb gun & real bow & arrows. The plan was to just shoot "close". That went ok until my buddy shot the bow right in front of my face. I then let an arrow fly at his head, which luckily missed. He then shot me in the head. Had to have a bb removed from my skull. I remember my head rang like a gong when he hit me. * blowed up lotsa stuff real good. Started with black powder, stuffed into empty CO2 cartridges. Waterproof fuses. Good times. Escalated to black powder pipe bombs, fired from electrical squib, triggered from friend's dad's shop breaker & extension cord. Friend got sequence wrong and plugged bomb in before turning breaker off. Miraculously escaped unharmed, although it basically blew up in his face. * dug "party cave" in clay cliffs on river bank. Basically a dirt cave large enough for 6-8 people to squeeze into. Worked on all summer, but fell down at some point when we weren't in it. * walked top of same cliffs (150 ft. high) between campground and home, in the dark, thru the woods, with just a lighter's flint for visibility, many times. * showed up at friends house to see new "toy". Turns out to be a sawed off .20 gauge. Of course, they have a box of shells. I grab my share and head out the back door to do some damage. I blow a few trees in two, then run out of shells. I hand over the gun to the next lucky guy, who proceeds to blow a few trees in two. I get the bb pistol. Guy 3 is about to take his turn (blowing trees in two) when we hear the following: "Stop. Drop your weapons. Lay down on the ground with your hands behind you head". Enter the game warden, with his .38 drawn and pointed at us. Luckily, he was more fixated on the sawed-off. I said "Look, man, it's a bb gun", dropped the bb pistol on the ground, and walked into the house. I had a shaky smoke and a Pepsi. When I gained the courage to look outside again, he had cuffed 'em and was walking them to his cruiser, .38 still pointed at their backs. They departed for the local constabulary and faced several legal hassles, not the least of which is that the shotgun had been reported stolen. That was a close call with the law.

Aaah! That's more like it. The Chedolat(h?)na info was specifically one point I was hoping to hear about. I'd heard that a fairly recent party was unable to convince the air service to land there. Now I know why. Looks like topo maps & aerial photos are going to have to do it. I suppose with the new guide there will be a relative increase in the traffic on the mountain. That probably means 1-2 parties a year, though. Any tips on maps or are std usgs quads the best? Thanks for the info.

I don't want to do the std. route. I have also seen the minimal description with the tiny pictures in the Alaska range guide. Still lookin'...

Actually, just another strike against Nick Nolte. Prosecutors Charge Nolte With Use Of 'Date Rape' Drug It looks like he'd just stay home and party. I just don't get it.

I think there's a bit of confusion here. I know you can stick a radically bent tool when the angle of the slope is low. Duh. I disagree that on steeper snow/ic slopes you can "just bring a picket". I suppose if you only climb classic, fat ice in prime conditions with the occasional snow traverse, that ol' picket will do you well. However, if you've ever found yourself on 60° rime over ice and rocks where the only way upward progress can be made is to jam both shafts into the crap and yard yourself up on those, you might wish you could actually get your shafts into the slope. My question about the Quark ($146 at sportextreme, BTW) is related more to the plungeability than stickability. Does the pinky fuckstick™ seriously limit this ability? It sounds like the answer is mostly yes.

Anyone been close to Mt. Russell before? It's on the SW Wilderness boundary in Denali National Park. I'm looking for any info on approach, routes, etc. We're already checking AAJ and some Washburn photos. Thanks

You said no 3 sections but check out the "ultralite" Komperdells at Sierra Trading Post. I like the 3 sections because you can take them on technical climbs for the descent. These are 20 oz for the pair, according to the web page and if I am going really lite I only take one. [ 10-22-2002, 05:37 PM: Message edited by: jaee ]

Bibler. I took a Fitzroy. It's roomy enough for 2 and stout. 4 poles, low profile, available now w/ 2 vestibules sewn on, I believe. I remember lying in it at 17k w/ big gusts just rocking me from side to side and being happy I had big walls and a bibler. Weight is better or comparable on similar sized tents, probably about 8+ lbs w/ the vestibule.

Anyone ever tried to use a quark in an alpine setting? I've got a set of Pulsars, which work well for plunging. I tried a bunch of different tools this summer and felt the quarks to be the best (for me, anyway) and ordered a set from sportextreme a few weeks ago. I'd assumed they were too radically bent to use for alpine climbing, but would like to hear if anyone has anything to say about them. They're amazing for me on vertical ice, and I intend to use them mainly for Ouray and waterfall type climbing.

True Story: My friend's wife's sister (1st step, distance yourself from the alleged yarn) is an attractive blonde young lady. She noticed while she was in high school that she was getting really terrible mileage in her old clunker. Time went by and she began complaining to friends, etc. Eventually she told some of her brothers that her car seemed to move to different parking spots, and would end up with the floorboards covered with beercans and the ashtray full of butts. They started paying attention and as they were driving around town, saw her car with a load of ruffians cruising town. Evidently, these guys had found a key that worked in her car and had been progressively more bold about skipping classes and joyriding in her car during the school day.