jaee

According to the folks at Patagucci here in Portland, an entire shipping container of DAS parkas was stolen from the docks when they arrived in the US. Evidently, someone just drove up to the container and hooked it up to a semi, then drove away. So, look for some good deals on ebay, but expect the normal stores to have a hard time getting them.

Just to clarify: 2 gullies near the toe: 1st Gully is normal rap gully or 4th class ascent in summer? 2nd Gully is South Chamber? Does this fill in or is the second pitch hella steep if you exit right? The summit ridge of this thing blew me away in the summer. It's just piles of huge blocks that you can see thru. Gotta' go check it out. The Quarks are in Kentucky! Thanks Wayne. Are the topos in Oregon anywhere? How about a copy for ClimbMax?

Exactly, Tex. I believe you've put your finger on the crux of the matter. My value as a human being is minimal since I don't have as many posts on CascadeClimbers.com as you. Oh, to only be as cool as you. May I lick your boots? Getting a little hot aren't you, cowfuck? Since skiing sucks so much and you're such a hotshot "accomplished endurance athelete", my single point was that I bet you can't do the North Face of Buckner (which is, of course, not an especially impressive mountain), car to car, without skis, thru Boston Basin, over Sharkfin col, in 12 hours and 30 minutes. I don't care to compete against you. You were the knob spouting about skiing. I merely emphasized that skiing can be more efficient by using a classic example of the terrain that can be covered using skis. I offered to demonstrate this by a friendly wager of you jogging over Buckner and back to the car in 12.5 hours without skis. If you can beat or match a skier, you win. If you can't, you're a loser anyway. Evidently your reading comprehension is as poor as your social skills appear to be. I didn't attack you. I was simply debating your point. Since you lack those skills apparent in higher forms of life, you chose to attack me, rather than defend your point. Nuthin' like trollin' for trolls. Ignore this one, if you can...

So, Tex, what you're saying is ski mountaineering isn't worth discussing here because of the ski part. I suppose you're right Have you read Lowell Skoog's trip report on the North Face of Buckner in a day? It's in the rec.climbing archives. I'd say that was a good days work. If skis suck, and walking rules, howabout putting up some cash that says you can do the North Face of Buckner from the trailhead (via Bostin Basin & Sharkfin Col) in 12.5 hrs. Sound fair? Put up or shut-up

* stopped friend from cutting down tree by putting foot in the way. Small compound fracture. * played cowboys & indians with bb gun & real bow & arrows. The plan was to just shoot "close". That went ok until my buddy shot the bow right in front of my face. I then let an arrow fly at his head, which luckily missed. He then shot me in the head. Had to have a bb removed from my skull. I remember my head rang like a gong when he hit me. * blowed up lotsa stuff real good. Started with black powder, stuffed into empty CO2 cartridges. Waterproof fuses. Good times. Escalated to black powder pipe bombs, fired from electrical squib, triggered from friend's dad's shop breaker & extension cord. Friend got sequence wrong and plugged bomb in before turning breaker off. Miraculously escaped unharmed, although it basically blew up in his face. * dug "party cave" in clay cliffs on river bank. Basically a dirt cave large enough for 6-8 people to squeeze into. Worked on all summer, but fell down at some point when we weren't in it. * walked top of same cliffs (150 ft. high) between campground and home, in the dark, thru the woods, with just a lighter's flint for visibility, many times. * showed up at friends house to see new "toy". Turns out to be a sawed off .20 gauge. Of course, they have a box of shells. I grab my share and head out the back door to do some damage. I blow a few trees in two, then run out of shells. I hand over the gun to the next lucky guy, who proceeds to blow a few trees in two. I get the bb pistol. Guy 3 is about to take his turn (blowing trees in two) when we hear the following: "Stop. Drop your weapons. Lay down on the ground with your hands behind you head". Enter the game warden, with his .38 drawn and pointed at us. Luckily, he was more fixated on the sawed-off. I said "Look, man, it's a bb gun", dropped the bb pistol on the ground, and walked into the house. I had a shaky smoke and a Pepsi. When I gained the courage to look outside again, he had cuffed 'em and was walking them to his cruiser, .38 still pointed at their backs. They departed for the local constabulary and faced several legal hassles, not the least of which is that the shotgun had been reported stolen. That was a close call with the law.

Aaah! That's more like it. The Chedolat(h?)na info was specifically one point I was hoping to hear about. I'd heard that a fairly recent party was unable to convince the air service to land there. Now I know why. Looks like topo maps & aerial photos are going to have to do it. I suppose with the new guide there will be a relative increase in the traffic on the mountain. That probably means 1-2 parties a year, though. Any tips on maps or are std usgs quads the best? Thanks for the info.

I don't want to do the std. route. I have also seen the minimal description with the tiny pictures in the Alaska range guide. Still lookin'...

Actually, just another strike against Nick Nolte. Prosecutors Charge Nolte With Use Of 'Date Rape' Drug It looks like he'd just stay home and party. I just don't get it.

I think there's a bit of confusion here. I know you can stick a radically bent tool when the angle of the slope is low. Duh. I disagree that on steeper snow/ic slopes you can "just bring a picket". I suppose if you only climb classic, fat ice in prime conditions with the occasional snow traverse, that ol' picket will do you well. However, if you've ever found yourself on 60° rime over ice and rocks where the only way upward progress can be made is to jam both shafts into the crap and yard yourself up on those, you might wish you could actually get your shafts into the slope. My question about the Quark ($146 at sportextreme, BTW) is related more to the plungeability than stickability. Does the pinky fuckstick™ seriously limit this ability? It sounds like the answer is mostly yes.

Anyone been close to Mt. Russell before? It's on the SW Wilderness boundary in Denali National Park. I'm looking for any info on approach, routes, etc. We're already checking AAJ and some Washburn photos. Thanks

You said no 3 sections but check out the "ultralite" Komperdells at Sierra Trading Post. I like the 3 sections because you can take them on technical climbs for the descent. These are 20 oz for the pair, according to the web page and if I am going really lite I only take one. [ 10-22-2002, 05:37 PM: Message edited by: jaee ]

Bibler. I took a Fitzroy. It's roomy enough for 2 and stout. 4 poles, low profile, available now w/ 2 vestibules sewn on, I believe. I remember lying in it at 17k w/ big gusts just rocking me from side to side and being happy I had big walls and a bibler. Weight is better or comparable on similar sized tents, probably about 8+ lbs w/ the vestibule.

Anyone ever tried to use a quark in an alpine setting? I've got a set of Pulsars, which work well for plunging. I tried a bunch of different tools this summer and felt the quarks to be the best (for me, anyway) and ordered a set from sportextreme a few weeks ago. I'd assumed they were too radically bent to use for alpine climbing, but would like to hear if anyone has anything to say about them. They're amazing for me on vertical ice, and I intend to use them mainly for Ouray and waterfall type climbing.

True Story: My friend's wife's sister (1st step, distance yourself from the alleged yarn) is an attractive blonde young lady. She noticed while she was in high school that she was getting really terrible mileage in her old clunker. Time went by and she began complaining to friends, etc. Eventually she told some of her brothers that her car seemed to move to different parking spots, and would end up with the floorboards covered with beercans and the ashtray full of butts. They started paying attention and as they were driving around town, saw her car with a load of ruffians cruising town. Evidently, these guys had found a key that worked in her car and had been progressively more bold about skipping classes and joyriding in her car during the school day.

quote: Originally posted by jon: http://www.alpinist.com They have a preview available online that is pretty cool, just hope you have a big enough screen to see the pdf. Um, jon, that's what the little zoomy thing is for.

I imagine this works in the same way alcohol dilates capilaries. This would probably provide some short term benefits. However, the benefits of vasodilation need to be weighed against the danger of hypothermia. If you dump a bunch of heat thru your hands and feet you will obviously cool your core more quickly. Plus, after you take your first leak, I doubt you'd be worried about the way your hands are feeling. Take a 1/2 pint of hooch instead and do your crotch a favor.

quote: Originally posted by allison: But you can recycle any of these canisters in curbside recycling, if you bleed them. We've been over that here before! Yes, but do the go back to the distributor so they can be reused? I believe that's what happens with SnowPeak canisters in PDX. If I'm wrong, I'm sure someone will point it out. I suppose I should have said "re-use" and that would have been more clear. Otherwise, not much point in making the trip to the gear shop, unless it's a marketing ploy. Obviously anyone would know you can recycle metal, even without searching the back articles. I have to admit, I don't usually search for back articles when answering a question. That responsibility usually goes to the asker of the question.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: ... Drive in there real early because last time I was there the road was pretty holed up and 4WD could be useful, and the damn drive was longer than the climb from North Bend anyways. Not anymore. Your tax $$$ at work. Freakin' thing is like a freeway. The first 10 miles are more rutted than the last 5. I also recommend doin' it in a day. Much more fun than slogging in w/ a big 'ol pack. [ 09-06-2002, 05:43 PM: Message edited by: jaee ]

Not much can go wrong with these things. I still tend to go with the XGK when I need to melt snow and the SnowPeak when there's running water. I've had REI folks tell me that if you don't use the SnowPeak fuel with the stoves you can have a problem with the canisters leaking. I have had one primus canister that leaked but I think it was a bad canister. The amount of energy you get out of the fuel is pretty equivalent. The main drawback is the canister weight and volume for butane stoves. There are significant differences in canisters. Primus seems to have a very thin wall compared to others, an has ligher empties. Plus, you can get the big'uns that hold a pound of fuel. However, since SnowPeak is imported locally to PDX, we can recycle those canisters at the MountainShop or Climb Max. I have melted the piezo igniter on my SnowPeak by using one of the tall folding windscreens. I had a small pot on the stove and basically surrounded the stove. That's definitely not recommended practice and now I use a windscreen just around the pot. But, that's also why I bought it from REI.... The word on the street is that Maybe Some Rec. equipment company will be coming out with a butane stove that uses a generating loop (runs the fuel thru the flame) so it can use liquid fuel. Then no need to worry about the temp of the fuel canister. It will have the canister on a hose or tube like the white gas stoves, so could be more stable. And hey, let's be careful out there

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Fill it up with Muir Hut smoke before your climb. Maybe they will call the next model the HotBox. Or nitrous oxide

quote: Originally posted by iain: That's good to hear. Did he say what he's up to next? He just got done teaching FBI agents on Rainier. He seems to be doing a lot of consulting work with the special forces. It sounds like he is trying to have a kid, and so wants to be around a bit more. He did a 3 hour deal w/ some of us (horrors!) Mazamas at Climb Max on Sunday and was pretty mellow compared to the slideshow where he was definitely in stage mode. He is trying to spread the light-is-right gospel to the military and law enforcement agencies. Good luck. Hopefully they comprehend his results.

quote: Originally posted by iain: speaking of twight-fests on Colonial, how was the show on Monday? I was at smith so missed out! Pretty cool. He works hard on his slide shows and music. There was 30 minutes of his earlier stuff on Hunter, Chamonix in early-mid 90's. Then he read his story about climbing the W. Butt w/ the other Mark (story in climbing). Then 14 minutes of the Czech Direct, just music and pictures, no narration. 60 hrs on the go. Quite amazing. Good for people to see the possibilites. The venue (Madison Auditorium) was a bit small, with standing room only and not enough tickets to go around. Granted, it was a show about him and his accomplishments, but still very entertaining and inspirational.

So Dru's about to hit 6000 posts. We should come up with a new title for him. Tim or Jon, could you create a title that only belonged to the person with the most posts? That could stir things up. Trask is only short about 2600. As for a new status, how about: Emperor HC Darth Spray King Snaffle Spray'teryx Tao of What else? [ 08-27-2002, 12:28 PM: Message edited by: jaee ]

Originally posted by jkrueger: quote: Chronic Gumby Moment »»» Attempting to find useful Leavenworth beta in the Smoot guidebook. The words Leavenworth beta are unnecessary. Regardless of whether the area is covered in the Smoot guides, the quality of information is identical. Do we really need to invent YARS (yet another rating system) for Cascade volcanoes?

Great for Denali. Perhaps could be useful on long trips in the winter to keep your feet warm & boots dry.