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genepires

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Everything posted by genepires

  1. 8.1mm x 50m
  2. you'll want to camp on the coleman glacier with the rest of the coleman-deming climbers as that is your descent route. If you camp over at the base of the route, you will have to backtrack to get to your kit. you can camp below the glacier but it will be snow covered so why not make your summit day shorter by climbing up another 600 feet and camping on the glacier. Lots of flat areas but over by the rocks is more flatness and possibly solitude. Somewhere they may be a toilet too. Been a while but there was one near the rocks/towers. Ask a ranger to be sure. You got 2 starts to the route, directly below and a entry in from the left. The direct is steeper but less exposed to hanging seracs. Speaking of that, if you need to belay in the lower 2/3's, you should not be there. There is lots of hanging ice above and you need to hustle through these areas. I have seen big things fall down that face and they are random. Not a daily occurrence, but a hazard to be respectful of. Given good snow conditions, one can simu climb through the lower 1/2 and get out of the hanging ice zones. Maybe deal with a couple big cracks that form in the middle zones, then deal with the upper low angle hard ice field. (that may or may not be buried) Walk over that long distance to the summit and have your buddy massage your sore calves. Don't reciprocate as you need to "get down before dark". Hopefully there should be a well beaten trail down the roman wall, pummice ridge (snow over pummice) and back down the coleman to your tent. Hit the beer shrine for pizza and beer and talk smack with whoever cares. (no one) Good luck and leave us some photos.
  3. leave the rock rack at home. You have better luck getting a ice screw into the rock than rock pro. Plus you should never be within spitting distance of rock. If there is ANY chance of it being cloudy on your summit day, do not go up baker without previous knowledge of the descent. It is big and flat on top and real easy to go the wrong way down in a whiteout. Even after being on top some 30 times, I still made an error going down in a white out. (even with compass was off by 45 degrees but not too bad to correct) But going down the wrong side is not that unlikely if you have never been up there or without a compass. glacier and snow conditions should be superb right now and for the next month. read nelsons select guide to cascades volume 2 for full beta.
  4. by modular do you mean able to change between dual and mono points?
  5. can I sell you my stuff then climb with you?
  6. it is not like a headlamp or a can of beans in there. just a thin windshirt!
  7. wouldn't a reduction of impact force be a good thing? I think you mean that gear in helmet reduces the amount of impact force a helmet can take before failing? I usually stuff my windshirt in my helmet. That can't possibly affect the strength of the helmet. Or am I wrong?
  8. I got an old wild things windshirt. As long as you can stuff it into your helmet, it should be thin enough to be extremely breathable. DWR is a waste of time on a windshirt as it will wear off quickly, makes it less breathable and if you need DWR, then you need a rain jacket. Mine does not have a hood but that would be nice. Full zip is not needed. I paid way to much for it but still worth much more than I paid as I take that thing on every climbing trip. Probably paid something like $.50/trip.
  9. eat whatever you like. I usually go with some kind of liquid energy stuff in the water bottle (cytomax, perpetum, ect), small halloween sized snickers bars every hour or so, cheese sticks and the usual "energy" bars. I know that mixing fancy perpetum and sugar/fat is not the recommended dietary intake but I am not doing some high performance enduro racing thing.
  10. One rock exotica soloist. Used maybe for 2 pitches but sitting in the gear box for a decade. Most of the outside markings have worn off and I do not have the manual anymore. (should be easy to find on the web though) retails new for $108. will sell for $50. Will ship if you pay the shipping costs and use paypal. (not a silent partner but a soloist) can provide a photo if need be.
  11. well loved black diamond aiders. I got a pair of 5 steps and a pair of 6 steps aiders. Used for probably around a dozen pitches and still in good shape but not new. Will throw in a BD oval biner per pair of aiders. Will sell as pairs (a 5 and 6 step makes a pair) for $35/pair or all four for $60. These things retail new at around $38 for one aider. Will ship of you pay shipping costs and use paypal. Will meet locally too. can provide a photo if need be.
  12. for the uninsulated windshirts, I would think that if it fits, they are all the same. Is there enough difference between various models to justify not getting whatever is cheapest?
  13. I believe that a stable warm airmass is needed for a thunderhead to form. Warm air rising (much like the blobs in a lava lamp), leaving electrons on the ground to cause the potential difference and cooling in the upper atmosphere to create the classic thunderhead. I think our on shore air breezes "stirs up" the air so that there is no massive amount of hot air rising but rather lots of small rising columns. Also, I think the trees and urban development have a factor in minimizing the formation of thunderheads. I think they form on the flat grassy plains and then cause trouble when they drift over the mountains. Sierra, colorado and tetons have lots of this terrain and lightning danger. Bugaboos are surrounded by more mountains and rarely has lightning issues. But I ain't no meteorologist. I have run away from cascade summits (both rocky spires) twice with immense static charges building up which usually precursors a lightning strike. Hair standing up and pushing the helmet upwards and hearing ringing sounds. So like grandpa says, "never say never".
  14. WOW! that looks like a great line. Hard to believe that there are still FA gems to be had.
  15. shuksan via white salmon glacier would be great. But the summit pryamid is the only place where it might feel crowded. So if you go via the salmon glacier, you may be in the same bottleneck. Oh yeah, there is a ridge alternative for the summit pryamid that can bypass the crowds that tend to go up the middle of the face. Any way up the summit pyramid is no place for complete inexperienced folks though. Also, the route you choose should depend on your skill level. Are you ready for the white salmon glacier? It is a bit steeper than C-D or sulphide.
  16. for those who don't know, that is a book not food.
  17. I wanna steal one and train it to be my alpine bitch rope gun.
  18. open dialogue on the mysterious squire creek area = new times Seems like before slab daddy, words of squire creek were whispers around a campfire. Either due to keeping the secret hidden, fear from the scale of area or fear that the squire creek gods would smite thou.
  19. there won't be much instruction for a 2 day trip. not sure what you want to get out of the trip. 2 days is to short for a guided baker trip. Also, if you are booking with a licenced and permitted guide service, you better call their office today and schedule something. It is not like fast food where you can drive through and pick up a guide. It may be too late already. you got some time still to train. 4 times a week, load up your pack to 30lbs and walk stairs.
  20. what is the time frame for your trip? How many days total guiding? Private or group? your baker summit day will prolly be around 3000 vertical feet over many hours if you leave from a high glacier camp. (2am to 11am usually ) The pace should be reasonable for you if your guide is any good at all. I believe that the non glacier camp is at 6500ft which would give you a 4000ft vert day. I have taken lots of people from this camp with varying physical levels with success. I suspect that you will do fine especially if you can run 6 miles. One note. running ability does not correlate to hiking with a pack ability. Something about the weight causing a different stride pattern that is not adapted to. Sometimes the runners did worse than the average joe or jane. If you think that you are not physically prepared for baker, then sahale quien sabe glacier would be a good choice.
  21. damn that is a bad way to leave this existence.
  22. It has been my experience that if you ride a fire dept ambulance, you get a free ride. Am I wrong about that? Does the fire dept have the ability to charge for ambulance rides? If I am right, maybe you can have the sheriff call the fire dept ambulance people. How does that work anyway between fire dept EMT vs private EMT? first one to the crash scene wins?
  23. If you hire a guide, get your moneys worth on baker. (depending on wether they have a permit or not there) If they do have a permit, push really hard for the baker location if they try to nudge you to sahale. Sahale usually has more user days for guide companies, but baker would be a superior learning environment. After baker, you could solo sahale via the sahale arm with a tiny bit of glacier. should be relatively safe and very beautiful too.
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