genepires

he rode train from everett to l'worth. no bike storage on train so he used friends bike. I assume he used bus for seattle to everett.

do tell how the memorial buttress shenanegans went.

"fatter"? my fast ass dude. great blog! who wudda thunk that a PE guy can write so well. must be that college edumacation.

do what you like and to hell with what others think. climbing is a game which you get to make your own rules. live it that way. I tape often. canucks make fun of me. I don't care what others think. I like tape mitts.

the future tyson memorial route. (in 40 years or so)

seems that x-fit would be good for alpine training that is mainly endurance based. If one didn't have mountains in their backyard, seems like x-fit would be the second best thing for alpine training as long as you don't get hurt.

I had my son do ski lessons this year with good success while I snowboarded around. he wants to snowboard but I told him that he needed to be 7 before he gets SB lessons. Stevens age policy. skiing is intuitively easier than SB so I think it is a good step progression if he/she wants to SB eventually. The bigger question is if the child is able to utilize lessons and learn anything. I don't think my boy would have done very good when he was three. But every kid is different so maybe yours will be fine. Mine had some lessons with 3.5 yo's in the class. Gear is easy and cheap. get the shortest ones you can find. Call the ski school for rec's on sizing. Keep an eye out on cragslist and you can find some for $50. Boots don't need the fit as you do as a adult. Just not too big. (like 3 sizes too big) Just go to sports replay in november and find some boots then. I would suggest you enroll your kid in a ski school with unlimited lessons. the first 8 or so will involve not skiing. But after 15 or so, they can really make amazing progress. it will be expensive but is def worth it.

finally something worth reading on cc.com. well the 12 year old sending 5.14 and the whole grain thing is good too. from the guy who used to "be mean to dogs" thanks Dan.

I used to spend much more time out there. With the given snow fall this winter and lack of sun in the spring, I give it a 90% chance that there will be 3 to 4 miles of road walking and possibly sharing the road with sledheads. The permited time to use the meadows for them must end soon for the season but I can't remember the exact date.

I seem to roll my ankles most on high top boots, the same one that would seem to prevent rolling ankles. go figure. I think a low profile shoe may be more stable and less rolling prone. Think jeep high center vs sport car. My boots are rather thick in the sole which may be the reason for this strange situation. Never roll ankle when barefoot.

gene = smartass? maybe, but only to folks I like. Haven't been on that road in over 5 years. I need to correct that silliness. A road can be dirty and wet under 4 feet of snow.

dirty and wet with a few potholes. going for another lookout this weekend?

Looks like Gene is looking for a new friend (Keenwesh) for naked dancing and shit. I think you are projecting your desires and I like warm fingers anyway.

saw somewhere a long time ago that a ropeman like device was used in the first loop (of a drop c like in your link) dropped down to victim instead of a pulley.

hey locals, any idea when the tick population returns to a normal level? I was thinking that may was a "normal" tick time period. was thinking of heading out there next weekend for a fam camping/chill climbing weekend. If memory serves right, it seems like the farther you get away from the road, the ticks get worse. True?

you need new friends that have naked dancing party with tons of crazy shite. You are still young and will be doing the reserved chill parties for way too long starting in a decade or so.

the fam was out at the mtneers clubhouse outdoor wall on 4/22/12 and my 5yo left his little rock shoes there. Can't remember the model as we haven't gotten much use out it yet but it was a velcro closure, some red parts and maybe a monkey graphic. Will pay whatever reasonable reward you would like for return. thanks gene

I wish I could describe the reasoning with the unit forces and how they multiply through the system but I need drawings to make sense of it. and I lack the computer wherewithal to do that quickly and logically. easy on a bar napkin though. A physicist would be able to apply a real world friction to my system and give a better answer, but alas, I don't care that much.

interesting link. The last time I looked into these things, I thought the canadian mtn guides assoc taught to do crevasse rescue this way and called it the drop c? With the assumption of a frictionless system and a force of one unit on the pulling end, the ropeman in the drop c setup would be experiencing 2 unit of force pulling onto the anchor. With a normal z-c setup, the anchor pulley would feel a unit force of 4. When you think about the friction that gets involved with twice the unit of force pulling on it, you can see that the drop c setup makes the ropeman less of a concern than in the zc setup.

nice one rad.

Once had a great trip up SCW with snow on the approach hike up and a patch on the top. Route was dry except for the last easy pitch once the sun was melting the snow patch. Kicking steps in the snow to make an anchor at the tree was "fun".

OH YEAH, the 10 or so pitch 5.9 all bolted on goats wall! prime rib is the name. More bolted stuff over in mazama. I think inspiration route is all bolted too. Not sure if you could call it sport climbing, but there are all bolted lines in 3 oclock rock area. slab climbing so beware. this list could get very long.

how about that for objective hazards.

I am a bigger fan of leavenworth for crag climbing. LIttle bit farther. There is some sport climbing to be had, especially in the clem hollar and nearby places.(nut house, puzzle palace, ect) I think you could do some stuff on duty dome area too. If you look into the guide book there are routes to be had for sporto types. Bouldering too.

Look at Dave doing homework and research on the interweb. smart fella.