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Everything posted by genepires
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Rope Suggestions - Over 9mm Single, Glacier Travel
genepires replied to mplutodh1's topic in The Gear Critic
thanks kurt. Just my opinion though but I like to have lots of room between climbers especially for teams of 2. I usually give myself around 45 feet. Having self arrest practice enough, I have seen some slides take a long time to stop and that is without having the rope pull even harder. Granted I have never had the chance to test out a crevasse fall like this in a real situation,(I got crazy mad crevasse sniffing skillz) but I can visualize some very long slides before making the arrest. Like getting pulled onto the back, head towards hole. I am such a scardy pants about this that I usually put 3 knots in the rope to help out. Which of course means that I need to carry enough rescue coils (which needs to be about 10% longer than the amount between the two climbers due to rope stretch) to be able to send another line down to prussik out with. By my numbers, a 50m is perfect. If I wasn't such a scardy cat about the what-ifs, then I would be on a 30m rope. Either that or I just feel really cool and swavy with those rescue coils, imagining that I am conrad kain. -
what the good lord giveth, index will take away.
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Rope Suggestions - Over 9mm Single, Glacier Travel
genepires replied to mplutodh1's topic in The Gear Critic
I just don't get it why people will think that a 30m is fine for teams of two. You can not carry enough rescue coils and still space the climbers farther than 25 feet apart with a 30m rope. 25 ft is not much room between climbers. (25 feet between, 30 feet of rope on each coil and about 5 used in knots) Maybe someone can explain to me why a 30m is fine for teams of two. teams of three don't make sense either as in what do you do if the middle person falls in and needs to be hauled out. Assuming you got 30 feet between climbers, you got 10 ft of rope in each coil. Heaven forbid you have to rap in for first aid. -
A long time ago, my food box (action packer) was stolen from the city of rocks. Rangers said that it was probably mistaken for a cooler which local kids like to nab for the chance to drink "hard" beer. Never gave serious theft a thought at the city though. times do change.
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just my opinion no leashes on moderate to flat ground snow and wrist leash for steep ground. many will argue against. let the fights begin!
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opinions are like a$$h0le$, everybody's got one. If I brought a shovel for a small team, it would be the lightest one available. I like the kinds that attach to axe handles and I think that grivel makes one. Maybe others like voile but it is a real guess. I got one from BD a long time ago but I am fairly sure they don't bother anymore. Some people will scoff at it but a plastic blade will be fine for you. (UNless you are diggin for avi victims)
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50 feet total is a long way down. Amazing luck and tough lady to not be injured more than she already is.
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put whatever stakes/alternatives on the fly guy points. Staking out the body using those low points is a weak way to anchor the tent. Think leverage. I use the standard wire tent stakes for all anchoring. In your case, I would age harden the snow above the buried stake. Age harden is a fancy word for smack the snow down to make it hard.
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FS: Feathered Friends Swallow Down Bag - $225
genepires replied to Paul_Logan's topic in The Yard Sale
I got one of these. really nice bag. -
this site is getting to be stale. The PC stuff is going too far but it is not mine to dictate.
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[TR] Index Town Wall - Parkinng Lot 3/24/2012
genepires replied to mattp's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
foi = friends of index -
standard QD for sport climbing I like flexible QD with rope end biner capture pieces to keep it oriented right. But pretty much any commercially available QD is fine. ANd lengths are fine too. I wouldn't get too hung up on weather it is a 4" or 6" QD. I like to have a couple QD with a locker on the rope end for the first couple bolts or before a runout section. But i am a scardy cat and maybe overly concerned about things like that. I bring up a couple of the alpine draws for places where there might be rope drag with a normal sized draw. Probably a bigger concern is what biners you put in draw.
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[TR] Index Town Wall - Parkinng Lot 3/24/2012
genepires replied to mattp's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
very nice work FOI. -
Don't know how I could bend AL pons when I walk like a little ballerina whenever getting onto dirt/rocks.
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depends on how crappy it is. If it is really foul (whiteout for example), you would need a wand every rope length, that amount of rope that is between the first and last person. If you had a team of 3 with 40ft between climbers you would need one every 80ft. If you had two teams with 40 feet between climbers, you would need one every 160ft. If you had 3 rope teams of 3 people with 40 feet between, then it would be every 240 ft. (For multiple teams the last person on one rope would need to be close to the first person on the other rope team.) For a 5 mile (26400 ft) walk up, you will need a butt load of wands. 330 for a team of 3. If it is really that bad, go down instead of bringing that many wands up. What usually happens is that wands are placed in changing directions and around suspicious crevasse areas. Almost more like a warning on the return trip. I can usually find remnants of the uphill track if the snow has been falling or the wind has been blowing for a little while but it is nice for the wands to make me aware that I need to look for tracks in different direction at those changing direction locations. If you think that your tracks are going to be covered within a couple hours, you really need to think about getting back down quick. While I usually don't recommend technology, a gps unit with bactrack and fresh batteries is a better option over wands if your concern is travel in whiteouts. so the short answer to your short question is, yeah, you have enough wands.
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a shovel may be useful if the need to dig a snowcave came up. A route that was more committing may have this need if something like bad weather snook up on ya. If weather came in on the emmons, go back the way you came. A big stack of wands (in addition to a gps unit) would be more useful than a shovel.
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taking my boy out to daisy chair at stevens for the afternoon today. no teacher. fun day ahead fur sure. yeah it is about spending time with the little ones. If your question is about value for lessons, then you have to ask if the child is able to take directions well from strangers. (why is it that children take directions form strangers better than their own parents?)
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my boy started this year at 4yo. I don't know if he would have taken the instructions as well before that. So the best age is very dependent on his/her take on teachers. My boy is a bit of a rebel. We had a season pass at stevens that had unlimited lessons. This helps a lot as the first 4 lessons are not much learning involved. That would hurt to pay the regular price. Wherever your local hill is, I would look into such a deal.
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2 person rope team with a 30 m rope can be really hard to do crevasse rescue. If you freind is going to cut up his 60m rope, have him cut it down to 50m or 45m. Any less and the spacing is too close between the two of you. (assuming you want ot carry rescue coils long enough to reach the person in the hole) on the clothes, drop either the fleece shirt or the nano pullover. If you can't wear all the clothes at once, you brought too much. Bring the hardshells no matter the weather. If it turns or makes it own weather, the hard shells will save you. hands- just the liners and mitts. see above rule. just my opinion, but I would not bring a helmet for the emmons. maybe the DC. drop the ice screw and goggles. If you need goggles, you should be walking downhill. I would get the AL crampons instead. Not just for the hiking in but when it is on the feet too. Lifting the foot up every step is easier. Like having lighter boots vs heavy clunking plastics. have your self arrest and CR skills down solid. You may not have other folks around to help out if you get in trouble. The emmons has some traffic but nothing like the DC.
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while I don't have local experience, it seems like murchisons has a long life. Always seems extra cold up there. If you are aiming for WW and PC, then murchisons will be right up your alley.
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someone with photoshop skills should create a image of the perp wearing all the gear they stole, then post the wanted posters on local glaciers. I mean small packs and med to large outwear. Must be short torsos with large hands and feet. Damn near troll looking.
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I had them on the original sarkens but returned it with the recall. wish I had kept them as they didn't offer that binding for the new sarkens. I really liked the spirlock when I had them. Used them on some WI (sarken points too long but binding works) and alpine ice here in WA. Both cases the binding worked great, I thought. not a fan of the sidelock as I am slightly stupid to make it work easily. Maybe I can hire a guide to show me how to use those.
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good job Robert. Even got some Jason martin screenplay action.
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all the good stuff happens in portland and leavenworth.
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first ascent [TR] Strobach - Nosebleed Seats (FA) 3/10/2012
genepires replied to John Frieh's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
cool looking water runnel there.