genepires

specificity and SAID says that climbing would be the best option. hangboards and rock rings would be second best. there is a lot of specific things you can do in a gym to work on forearms and grip. Slap on some fatgripz on a bar and db to make regular weight work into grip work. Do pullups on rock rings to work the more typical hand strength needed for rock climbing. Barbell finger curls. expand the hand with rubber bands for balance in the forearm, think preventing overuse injuries by strengthening the antagonistic muscles.

spray is strong and live via 4 participants.

nice one Ivan.

don't spend much if any time in this part of cc.c, but just noticed that it has been 2.5 days since the last posting in spray. usually 3 minutes can't go by before something pops up. Is this forum (or cc.com in general) getting old and stale? Have we found better things to do like climb and ski? I hope so.

very impressive for a first trip to banff. curtain call! was your last photo taken near field? looks a lot like silk tassel.

way to rub it in. us working monkeys all sad.

he should have been hacking in monster steps. the spirit of alpinists of yore would have helped him out. unable to arrest and having crampons on is a bad situation. actually, falling with crampons on is a bad situation too.

The lifetime of a rope. Ice climbing rope --> glacier slogging rope--> canyoneering rope --> S&M tiedown rope --> rope floormat. not hip enough for a rope floormat but the S&M part, that's Tvash's world. I am way to white bread for that kind of excitement.

it is always winter somewhere Alex.

conrad kain and his generation would say otherwise. let the rebirth of the giant alpenstocks and their step whacking assault upon the ice slopes begin.

8.something by 50m whatever I have laying around. I don't put that much thought into the actual construction of the rope as the forces during the fall are relatively little. The only thing that is critical is that it be treated for water resistance, obviously. My glacier rope is usually a retired ice climbing rope before it becomes a canyoneering rope.

thanks kurt. Just my opinion though but I like to have lots of room between climbers especially for teams of 2. I usually give myself around 45 feet. Having self arrest practice enough, I have seen some slides take a long time to stop and that is without having the rope pull even harder. Granted I have never had the chance to test out a crevasse fall like this in a real situation,(I got crazy mad crevasse sniffing skillz) but I can visualize some very long slides before making the arrest. Like getting pulled onto the back, head towards hole. I am such a scardy pants about this that I usually put 3 knots in the rope to help out. Which of course means that I need to carry enough rescue coils (which needs to be about 10% longer than the amount between the two climbers due to rope stretch) to be able to send another line down to prussik out with. By my numbers, a 50m is perfect. If I wasn't such a scardy cat about the what-ifs, then I would be on a 30m rope. Either that or I just feel really cool and swavy with those rescue coils, imagining that I am conrad kain.

what the good lord giveth, index will take away.

I just don't get it why people will think that a 30m is fine for teams of two. You can not carry enough rescue coils and still space the climbers farther than 25 feet apart with a 30m rope. 25 ft is not much room between climbers. (25 feet between, 30 feet of rope on each coil and about 5 used in knots) Maybe someone can explain to me why a 30m is fine for teams of two. teams of three don't make sense either as in what do you do if the middle person falls in and needs to be hauled out. Assuming you got 30 feet between climbers, you got 10 ft of rope in each coil. Heaven forbid you have to rap in for first aid.

A long time ago, my food box (action packer) was stolen from the city of rocks. Rangers said that it was probably mistaken for a cooler which local kids like to nab for the chance to drink "hard" beer. Never gave serious theft a thought at the city though. times do change.

just my opinion no leashes on moderate to flat ground snow and wrist leash for steep ground. many will argue against. let the fights begin!

opinions are like a$$h0le$, everybody's got one. If I brought a shovel for a small team, it would be the lightest one available. I like the kinds that attach to axe handles and I think that grivel makes one. Maybe others like voile but it is a real guess. I got one from BD a long time ago but I am fairly sure they don't bother anymore. Some people will scoff at it but a plastic blade will be fine for you. (UNless you are diggin for avi victims)

50 feet total is a long way down. Amazing luck and tough lady to not be injured more than she already is.

put whatever stakes/alternatives on the fly guy points. Staking out the body using those low points is a weak way to anchor the tent. Think leverage. I use the standard wire tent stakes for all anchoring. In your case, I would age harden the snow above the buried stake. Age harden is a fancy word for smack the snow down to make it hard.

this site is getting to be stale. The PC stuff is going too far but it is not mine to dictate.

foi = friends of index

standard QD for sport climbing I like flexible QD with rope end biner capture pieces to keep it oriented right. But pretty much any commercially available QD is fine. ANd lengths are fine too. I wouldn't get too hung up on weather it is a 4" or 6" QD. I like to have a couple QD with a locker on the rope end for the first couple bolts or before a runout section. But i am a scardy cat and maybe overly concerned about things like that. I bring up a couple of the alpine draws for places where there might be rope drag with a normal sized draw. Probably a bigger concern is what biners you put in draw.

very nice work FOI.

Don't know how I could bend AL pons when I walk like a little ballerina whenever getting onto dirt/rocks.

depends on how crappy it is. If it is really foul (whiteout for example), you would need a wand every rope length, that amount of rope that is between the first and last person. If you had a team of 3 with 40ft between climbers you would need one every 80ft. If you had two teams with 40 feet between climbers, you would need one every 160ft. If you had 3 rope teams of 3 people with 40 feet between, then it would be every 240 ft. (For multiple teams the last person on one rope would need to be close to the first person on the other rope team.) For a 5 mile (26400 ft) walk up, you will need a butt load of wands. 330 for a team of 3. If it is really that bad, go down instead of bringing that many wands up. What usually happens is that wands are placed in changing directions and around suspicious crevasse areas. Almost more like a warning on the return trip. I can usually find remnants of the uphill track if the snow has been falling or the wind has been blowing for a little while but it is nice for the wands to make me aware that I need to look for tracks in different direction at those changing direction locations. If you think that your tracks are going to be covered within a couple hours, you really need to think about getting back down quick. While I usually don't recommend technology, a gps unit with bactrack and fresh batteries is a better option over wands if your concern is travel in whiteouts. so the short answer to your short question is, yeah, you have enough wands.