genepires

I don't understand internet trolls and trolling. Can't fathom the need to spread controversy and non stop argueing. People got different views...got it. at some point though, you gotta say, "F it". libtard you computer savy folk impress me.

disclaimer: I have been to nearly every range in WA, except the olympics. I would think that the glacier would be pretty well open by the time you get there mainly due to our wierd snowpack this year. maybe I am wrong. If they are all open, then a shorter rope would suffice as it is for the very unlikely chance of falling in. (assuming you are bringing and proficient with crampons) If you are going to bring a 30m rope and a tagline, then you should really evaluate the weight difference between that setup and a standard 50m twin. from a pure safety / rescue point of view, a 50m double is the better option for a rope team of two.

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you are right about the knots being a pain that is why I "(another good reason to have extra coils is due to those knots when trying to do a 3 to 1 pulley)" or another line to prussik out on. it comes down to what you are more afraid of: chance of the falling climber dragging in the surface climber into the crevasse or a difficult time with the rescue. being the sole person to catch the fall is more worrisome for me. As a result I put in knots. As a result of the knots, I need enough coils around the shoulder to reach the other person. (and them some) As a result I need a 50 or 60 m rope and can't get away with a 30m rope. but even with a 3 person team it is a good idea to have enough rope to reach the fallen climber. Chances are that the snow is really soft or else someone probably would not have fallen into a crevasse if the snow is firm. So the rope would have cut through lots of snow. Trying to excavate the rope from that much snow will be time consuming and involve dropping lots of snow onto the victim. And the risk of cutting the rope while getting all the snow away from the rope. (think using the adze) The person in the hole will appreciate a fresh rope dropped down a well excavated hole off to the side.

It was mellow about 17 years ago. It was just 3 raps on fixed slings and mellow snow downclimbing to the ridge. A lot can change in that time though.

nice TR. just curious though. how come you choose to not go up the west ridge gulley and do the 3 or 4 rappels plus downclimb to get the NW face? Has something changed on that descent approach?

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everyone has their preferences but I take the worst case scenerio when deciding on glacier travel gear. That is your partner is hangin into the crevasse and you need to rappel in to give medical help or just make the person upright if they are unconscious and upside down. Others don't plan for that plan for the most common scenerio which is a simple punch-in or a non-event in the first place. You have to decide which one you want to gear up for and then we can talk about what the preffered setup is. Mine is to use a half rope 50m with enough rope in coils (not kiwi coils) to be able to rap into the partner. 3 butterfly knots in between to assist with catching the force. (another good reason to have extra coils is due to those knots when trying to do a 3 to 1 pulley). Each person has enough gear to make a snow anchor. (1 picket and the axe buried)

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/1125663/Searchpage/1/Main/96413/Words/rope%2Blength%2Bglacier/Search/true/Re_Ideal_rope_length#Post1125663 was a discussion about that last year. seems to come up every year or so. This could be a worthwhile sticky topic. (admins)

oh contrair sir. Me thinks that a lifetime in jail, walking unprotected among violent criminals (of the color he dispises) is a fate far worse than death. And the added benefit of not allowing him to be a marter to the white rascist crowd. giving him death is the kind thing to do to him. let him suffer.

i wouldn't concer yourself so much with the training for speed part right now. You sound like you are in adequate shape if you can go at a pace for long periods of time. Just focus on getting out and having fun....or phun as I like to call it. Type 2 fun. Pick fun goals within your limits on a regular basis. Have fun even if it is slow. Don't beat yourself up about some clock values. Speed is not what climbing is ALL about. Sometimes that bivy is the best part. Relish the alpine. Don't speed through and miss things. Gradually up the ante and so a little bigger each weekend. Your fitness will improve. You will speed up without trying so hard. Plus what folks above said too.

not my circus...not my monkeys....

kids love swings. use that to help kids (the really young ones like your 2 and 4 yo) get used to being in a harness. In a rock gym, my son's favorite thing was to go up some overhanging route 5 feet and let go resulting in a nice swing. He got very comfy with being in a harness and associated it with fun. then at squamish, the idea of being in a harness on some low angle slab was also associated with fun even though the swings are not as great. there are plenty of small not guidebook climbs that are great for kids. big enough for kids to get a appropriate thrill and not hogging up some popular climb that is prolly too tall for a young one anyways. Something even 45 degree steep is a great place to not over excite kids. just keep your eyes open (what ever that means) as you walk from adult crag to adult crag. always little kids crags stuffed in between.

that is some crazy shite! For a passing party to have Alan Kearney in it is very lucky. That is one man I would want to save me. This part is weird to me. "Has this in anyway turned me off to climbing? Not in the least. Do I blame God? No. With every venture there is risk and reward. Accidents happen and I bear no ill will toward the mountain or God or anybody else for this incident. " what about the guy who thought a single picket (unknown how placed) was good enough to dangle over a cliff? It wasn't the mountain or god (if you got that way) that placed a poor picket. Does this smells like he thinks it is gods will or the mountains fury?

last thing I know is anything resembling new protocols. I suspect that many things have improved since I last looked at this things.

Just to highlight the risk of a single point anchor, the latest R & I magazine has a accident article involving the failure of a single bolt anchor resulting in a death. And that was a bolt which is arguably much stronger than a stick buried in snow which is on it's way to being water.

Yeah curt, I meant that the sling points in the direction of load and the sling is perpendicular to the picket as well. Been a while so I can't remember the source but there was a test done where the vertical placed picket with the sling attached to the middle like a deadman did as well or better than a deadman picket. Still had dig a slot for the sling but just pound the picket in.

Time wise, my anchor takes about 5 minutes at a thoughtful non hectic pace. Something like this should happen in a well though pace. When things are done hecticly, things get forgotten and mistakes made.

If you are doing crevasse rescue, then chances are that the snow is not bomber hard snow. if the snow was hard enough for a single piece snow anchor, then it is very unlikely that someone could fall into a covered crevasse. I suppose that someone could have a sliding fall into an open crevasse There is no excuse for a single point snow anchor, regardless of snow condition. First rule of rescue is to not make more victims. Putting your life onto a single point anchor is a risky idea. Even if you only have one picket, you still have a ice axe to deadman. If one had to have only one snow anchor, it would have to be a deadman picket. There may be something to a vertical driven picket but the sling is attached to middle of picket. But I have never practiced it. My two point anchor takes about 3 minutes more than a one point snow anchor. Time is not a significant enough reason to avoid a solid standard anchor. My favorite way to make a 2 point snow anchor (both pieces have a double runner already attached) is to 1. Bury the first picket pointing directly towards the victim. 2. Bury the second picket directly behind the first about 3 feet with the sling slot pointing directly into the other picket sling slot. 3. Girth hitch a double runner to the lower picket sling and connect the other end of this runner to the higher picket's sling with a biner. 4. Tie a figure eight knot in this double runner to equalize and make a SERNE anchor Some wil find things that they don,t like about my way but there are also advantages as well,, some not so obvious. I have practiced this method many times with never an issue. There will be many opinions on something like snow anchors. A worthy resource is to find what the AMGA is suggesting that the guides teach and use.

or that phat pillar on rogers corner. we could make a list of things that are next to fall down and time capsule it.

I used to have the metolious foot slider and adj daisy. My no measure am I an expert on aiding. I don't count the number of placements on city park but the amount of time till I can get my summit tuna sandwich. after a while, the webbing got fat (much like yours truly) and it got hard to extend the webbing back out. after lots of wasted energy, the advantage was gone. Yates makes one that I think would not have that issue. Plus it felt like things were getting real sloppy with extra biners and tails all flapping around. they do make a lot of sense for jugging though. Chris Macnamara has similar thoughts. "Metolius Easy Aider — Not great for leading. Good for following until you have to clean a horizontal traverse. If you bring them for following, it means you will probably end up managing multiple sets of Aiders. That goes against what I believe is the key to having fun and succeeding at walls: keeping the systems as simple as possible. There is a similar version of this Aider made by Yates called the Yates Speed Stirrup."

step aiders are stone age equipment, just because you are climbing stone doesn't mean you have to live in the stone age. Step aiders are harder to use and mean more to learn not less. Aid is the slowest form of climbing there is, why would you want to make it s l o w e r ? By step aides are you meaning all ladder aiders and those offset step aiders too? Sliders may be modern but they are not better. Simple ladders aiders are the best but it ia all personal choices.

check out these videos. very well done. that should tell you about gear you need and other great things too.'

I remember that wooden ladder. must have been gone for at least 10 years now. I like the idea of that ladder coming back.

there is always a chance I made an error. I was just going off the tax tables for that particular year. Maybe you can explain how this CPI matters? are you talkig about the Consumer Price Index? If so, how does that affect income tax? thanks gene