genepires

they don't sell NF gear for a good reason. I worked there at teh transition away from NF. They started to screw with the retailers and their designs were drifting away from quality.

you are still an ass. I would rather have a heavily used inexpensive rental tent than a POS from walmart. And, AAI (or any retailer) doesn't have too much flexibility in their pricing. Their pricing is based on "suggested retail" from the manufacturer. So if it is overpriced, then it is not the retailers fault. But I suppose AAI could sell POS walmart sandwich bag tents and send them off with no care for the clients like walmart does.

A lot of good info above. I started my climbing on mt washington and spent many a horrible day there battling the winds and snow. The advice I would give is to not have any exposed skin, at all. It is always windy there and it will make frost nip in a hurry. Since you are going on a fixed days, chances are the weather will be blowing hard and you will be suffering, which is why it is such a cool place. so based on your questions I would answer. The primaloft sweater is the best idea when compared to the 300 weight fleece and soft shell jacket. complete windproof. I am not a big fan of goretex jackets but they are the best in the high wind enviroment. Puffy? Anything big enough to fit over the other bulky layers and with a hood of course. I am fond of the pataguchi stuff but you got wild things right there. If I remember right, it is fairly dry there so down would be a good choice. If not dry but wet like around here, synthetic may be a better choice. what I think are essential small things: real serious balaclava that covers all skin like the OR gorilla balaclava goggles to cover the eye balls. I froze my eyelids once and that is not fun. thin, med and thick gloves with a mitten to fit over these. You can't carry to many gloves as they get wet and then worthless. good boots with the overboots over that. There can be some wallowing in the snow and overboots can help keep your feet dry. light or medium weight thermal tops and bottoms with some kind of nylon windshirt and pants for getting around in kind conditions. Are you doing the presidential traverse as part of the trip? That woudl be rad.

I wonder what route he did? Any Udall fans know? Uhh... never mind. It says he did the cassin. That is really cool for a senator.

sweet!

a big thermos with your favorite drink inside. real ice climbing gloves. they are worth the money. good boots. matter of preference. But I would bet that lake superior ice climbing is colder than west side ice climbing. Colder than banff too. Is it cold and high humidity? (then you need real good boots)

sorry to hear about that. But wow, getting after it being 71 is really ambitious and cool. I hope to be half the man he is when I am 61. or even 51. or even now.

It seemed like the victim was breathing too regularly to not have an avalung on. He was under for over 5 minutes and had fairly deep breaths. I think the weird sounds were him trying to talk or cry. Damn scary stuff. In bounds, stay in bounds. His buddies did a great job getting him out. good friends to have.

Unless I am confused, there is no rap needed for descending off of dragontail. When you say the south side, I am assuming you mean from teh summit, down towards little anapurna, than around to asguard pass. There is a nice snow hill to walk down it you walk to the skiers right a ways. It may be hard ice right now, which would explain the raps.

You shouldn't need to pay to get them back. Climbers should be an honorable lot. Hope you get them back soon.

you could also just go to ouray with some buddies, a book on ice climbing and have a great time doing lots of top roping. figure it out by experimentation.

AAI ice course is a summer course. They may have some classes in ouray though. A better bet may be to go to canmore and get a guide there. That way you could personalize it without the basic stuff that you obviously have mastery of. Seems like a class would be full of stuff you already know and may be a partial waste of time.

Wag bags do a fairly good job of keeping the feces stink in. BUt it has its own particular smell though that is strange enough to make you question. I haven't used one in 5 years though so maybe it is different. Fairly durable though. I have hauled out LOTS of poop and never a busted bag.

The photo of the banana head is spot on for a self description of marc le-banana brains.

being bitch slapped by croft is not such a bad thing, possibly a noble thing. Being bitch slapped by me would be a disgrace. Awesome job on getting it done! Especially the gendarme.

how far could you drive up the road and how far was it from the parking lot to the base of the mtn? What kind of day (total time wise) was it? I was up on it in the winter but never in teh summer.

nice job Rad!

that is a mighty purty picture.

Come on JosephH, lets play nice here. I am asking a question that I am curious about since you have more expereince with the hip belay. Why is the braking position down between the legs vs. across the front of the waist, towards the loaded strand. It would seem like the braking position you say would have less friction. Are you saying that with the 180 degree bend is enough friction and don't need the extra? Just curious and not meant as an arguement. I am paying attention to the details. That is why I am asking.

you forgot that JosephH doesn't like the munter hitch. And to lock off the hip belay, one needs to "Lock off by diving your brake hand between your legs." Maybe Joseph could elaborate why this is a better lock off than wrapping the rope around the waist as far as possible? I am used to hip belays in a seated stance. Maybe this between the legs thing is a standing hip belay method for belaying leaders?

$5 million dollar policy? I am not that current with guiding office stuff, but I seem to remember that guide services I worked for had a 1 or 2 million dollar policy. a $5 million policy would be very very expensive to have access to a small rock area. So it is not only the volunteer outfits shut out of erie. Isn't erie tapped out as far as new routes go? Didn't Klokke climb and bolt every possible line imaginable there? Sucks to hear about trails being shut down though. If Dallas Klooke is reading this, could you get a hold of me. I am trying to get some info from you but have lost your email.

so Joseph you are saying that a hip belay is as strong or stronger than a normal belay device? I know the hip belay is strong enough to hold falls, but you cannot deny that the belay device has more holding power than a hip belay. BTW, you don't know who I am or my experience so how can you make assumptions about me and my hip belay experiences? Or for that matter and entire state? For an old guy, you need to chill out.

Sweet Dave! Let the lineup begin. thanks for the tremendous work you and your friends have put into making the great lines we get to enjoy.

the hip belay, while a good belay technique that has its applications and advantages, it is not as good as any belay device in regard to holding power. It has low friction power when compared to a tubular belay device. It is a matter of bends. A ATC has a little over 360 degree of bends while a hip belay at best has 270 degree. (not sure why you recommend the brake line be pulled between the legs which yields only 180 degree of bend. braking position should be across the body giving more rope to clothing contact and more bend in rope) The quality of the bends on a device is better too. The bend is harder in the device, giving it a greater holding power. Now of course, people used to get up BIG shite while using a hip belay. One could use a hip belay in rock climbs but, if I ever got to the top of a pitch and found I was belayed with a hip belay instead of a munter, I would be mad as hell. I want holding power, not belayer convienence.

is this a joke Pat? I know you have been up there in the early fall. It should be loose scree and dirt.