genepires

bring the synthetic jacket for your course. The guide will prolly require it and you will need it as the weather will most likely be less than perfect for at least one day in the six. enjoy!

generally speaking with no forcast for may...bring the synthetic jacket. you could make the call in the last minute though. If the forcast is stellar clear skys, bring the down. If there is any chance of rain/snow, bring the synthetic. What route are you doing and how long are you on baker? these would affect the answer to your question.

beautiful!

well it has been 16 years in the making for Wayne so it is a safe bet to say that this route comes in once every couple decades or so. So you better get after it now cause it may not come back in your lifetime. Maybe climate change will make this route come back more often.

exit 32/38 and/or a rock gym. vantage is a couple hour drive from seattle for "winter/rain on the west side" fun. guidebooks easily available for either areas.

I could climb the tooth is 2.5 days. is that a grade VI? or am I a grade VI sloth?

I think mid to late may is nearing the late end for that route. But mine is only one experience but when we were there, most of people in the "know" had gone through and moved onto other areas. Which means the guided trips were done with it. If we were "late", it was fine cause we had the route to ourselves and one other cool team. How about emailing puryear about his opinion as he has lots of time and knowledge of that area. If another group is above you, you will get clobbered by their ice. get up earlier than other groups. we didn't get up early enough.

from your description, you did not take the way that cbcbd is talking about. There is no rap that way and no way you could miss it and have to climb back up to it. From the top of the nf route, you walk climbers left along the ne buttress route, over a small knob and have to downclimb a small bit to see the correct easy gulley which leads right to the large other gulley (with rap anchors). Jason and I went down the wrong gully also following tracks.

pm me if you just need a left foot rock shoe size 10.5. what am I gonna do with one rock shoe?

still bad ass after a second viewing! how do you find these plums?

sweet! you are mr butte's

kno wurries. u r stil mor cohearant than us in our best dayz. there are plenty of good guide services on baker. AAI, alpine ascents and others have people on that mtn regularly. Or you could fish for someone from this site and hope for the best. Maybe summit chaser? Baker is a very kind mtn. She doesn't seem to smack down inexperience like rainier. It is surprising that more people don't have accidents on baker.

Found a single rock shoe up on snag buttress. PM me if you lost one up there.

that thing is scary beyond belief. Helmets? nah..no need (unless solid like index. nothing falls at index) belay device? just wrap the rope around a bush (actually they said tree) harness? heck just use that crap from the construction site (from photo) after that three I gave up on the rest of the reading. Lawsuit waiting to happen. thanks Bill. Now i know were all the yahoo crazy ideas come from.

I just took a sick big dump. I need a consult from Ivan on how to write an literate TR on this.

reserve spot early and have a backup plan if the weather is fowl. Late june is fairly good but it is a long flight from ohio. You should ask for good alternatives here too. I'll throw out one. esmeralda basin below ingals peak is very nice. sorry about mr summitchasingcjb-poopyhead.

I have used a winter ice boot (the blue freneys) for lots of summer stuff. (I don't think that the options for summer alpine boots were around like they are now) it is just not as forgiving on the trails. better than plastic though. But if you need the stiffness, there are many good options in the winter ice boot area, like the sportiva models. ( I don't know the names or are really familair with them anyway.)

if you want stiffer boots, you need to look at winter ice climbing boots. Try the nepal top or the like. but from your mentioned boots, I suspect you are looking for a summer alpine boot, which a little flex is good for the walking you will need to do with. My buddy used the charmoz on a n ridge of baker trip and didn't mention any problem with his boots. I use the garmont towers for summer alpine snow/ice and it works great. I have a widish foot too. I got it at feathered friends if you live in seattle area. That was a while ago so I am unsure if they still make that model. good luck and try on many models.

the price is right and it doesn't weight as much as a city building.

nice photos. cool looking alpine romp.

that doesn't sound very canadian. the first round of mec shipping restrictions came about from pressure from american retailers. Any ideas as to what the problem is now?

damn cool! I had a passing thought about going up ne buttress after the n face but i quickly realized I was tired and sore and lame. good job! without belays too!

I think the sarken are more of a alpine and alpine ice crampon. the points are too long for waterice. IMO.

we went to the hyak place today and the sledding hill was closed! mostly bare ice, twigs and dirt. Sucky. and it cost $20 to park there! and we paid it! we are dumb. but, the hill looks damn near perfect if the snow was there. next winter.

Once isn't enough? Some of us goofheads gotta work.