Lots of not-so-consolidated snow last Saturday, and little ice to speak of except there was a nice little curtain at the top of the first pitch that took a stubby. There is a fixed pin in a rock outcropping out on the snowslope above and a good stopper placement right next to it, for a decent anchor. Leading the second pitch was tools driven spike first sometimes to halfway up my upper arm for a one ropelength runout, exactly like Jim's book says - except a whole lot nastier than the picture of Kit Lewis with the nice firm snow.
The final two pitches have lots of trees and rock pro, they're no problem. There was much less ice than I expected - unblunting my picks took a little while yesterday.
We used 1 screw, 1 #1 costalot, 1 knifeblade, 2 stoppers and 1 picket, plus slings on the trees of course. We could have left all this stuff en route and still had a decent rack on the summit. Oh well. Beautiful day to be out, I'd have killed for a pair of skis once done with the rap down the little gulley.