fleblebleb

Hey, the reports are fun, the arguing is fun, the only thing that isn't fun is if people are rubbed the wrong way and then stop all that good fun... I don't remember if I said this already but reading about Layton and Matt's Big Four trip was really cool - up there with Colin and Marko's Johannesburg extravaganza because of the cornice tunneling methinks.

Get your free $20

Classical music and Chinese water torture definitely go hand in hand, methinks. Can't abide the one, can't abide the other.

What, aren't we giving Beck credit for starting pub club? Not so bad

Bah. The only thing that defines the skier is the skiing. After all, you can parallel ski on modern tele gear just fine.

The word you're looking for is "asswipe"

Or Jens' house?

No I don't. Yes you do.

You go girl Try to get some climbing in between expanding the krawl guidebook willyah

What are you trying to do give people nightmares? Naughty

Lots of not-so-consolidated snow last Saturday, and little ice to speak of except there was a nice little curtain at the top of the first pitch that took a stubby. There is a fixed pin in a rock outcropping out on the snowslope above and a good stopper placement right next to it, for a decent anchor. Leading the second pitch was tools driven spike first sometimes to halfway up my upper arm for a one ropelength runout, exactly like Jim's book says - except a whole lot nastier than the picture of Kit Lewis with the nice firm snow. The final two pitches have lots of trees and rock pro, they're no problem. There was much less ice than I expected - unblunting my picks took a little while yesterday. We used 1 screw, 1 #1 costalot, 1 knifeblade, 2 stoppers and 1 picket, plus slings on the trees of course. We could have left all this stuff en route and still had a decent rack on the summit. Oh well. Beautiful day to be out, I'd have killed for a pair of skis once done with the rap down the little gulley.

Huh, Dru can make jokes about Allison screwing? Hey, how about having pub club at the Snix in the U District in the second week of April?

Yeah, like, did you run into any of these pesky Canyucks? Sounds like awesome climbing Dave!

It's Pope and Dwayner. Get your context right.

Try a 4-season tent with more space at a little over half the weight. Get them at Jim's.

Bah, semantics Happy bday! Sorry I didn't show, but I got some fun climbing in Saturday (2:45 alarm, ugh)

I have a pair, they're great.

What do you mean trask isn't typical? Is there news with people in clothes? What for?

Gotsta hand it to tips, she can dish it out Hey, king 5 people, if you're going to talk it shouldn't you at least try walking it as well? A sport climb perhaps, or a gentle alpine climb like da Toof or Ingalls - assuming you could find someone to lend you a hand? I think a lot of us appreciate that you're trying to become more informed but it's still all talk. There is really no way of understanding climbing without getting at least a little bit gripped.

Actually, I don't find the archives to be a great source of route information. There is too much volume, too much spray everywhere (not just in the spray section), and since there is no knowing what has been the subject of a useful discussion and what has been subjected to a sprayfest you can't really count on finding the guidebook type of beta in the archives. But hey, the guidebooks are for sale at the bookstore and they don't cost much. However, the site is often an awesome source of information about current conditions because there is a critical mass of people that go out and sample, and report their findings here. Archives of current conditions are probably of historical interest at best. Furthermore, a good way for outsiders to use this site is to watch out for the bursts of ascents that occur every now and then - if 10, 20 people spray about climbing Triple Couloirs, or Eldo NW Couloir, or Chair NF, or Stuart N Ridge, then you can probably expect the route to be in passable condition and grab your chance to go for it without having to put much thought into subleties - and it doesn't matter whether all the posts were mostly gremlins. If on the other hand there is lots of spray about a route but no repeats then you better stay the hell off unless you know what you're doing. I'm not headed for Johannesburg in the middle of a winter storm cycle myself, thank you very much, but it was entertaining to read about. Finally, when all the stars are properly aligned some of the usual suspects exchanging jokes and banter all day long can be an incredible source of beta, including details such as what particular pieces to bring that are seldom included in the guidebook descriptions. It starts with spray and is all about PMs and phonecalls from there. If you feel excluded then show up at the pub a few times, hook up with some people and go climbing, and you'll soon have figured out that reading the posts only gets you a lousy facsimile of the board. To wrap up, filter the spray out and all you'll have accomplished is not knowing sarcasm from honesty anymore; expect beta for nothing (not even jokes) in return, and all you'll get is probably scorn.

I tried locking my mountaineering boots into my cable tele bindings once, it seemed fine on the living room floor but was incredibly painful on the snow. The muscles in my feet were getting a beating. I barely made it from the Baker ski area parking lot to Pan Dome Falls and back. I don't think you can get more simple/cheap/lightweight bindings, but unfortunately that's not an option in my book. I'd be entertained if you went ahead and duct-taped the skis to your boots Why not just snowshoe?

Silvrettas. Jim has the nice ones. Old ones are hard to come by except mounted on old skis... try Second Ascent maybe?

Post deleted by fleblebleb

Fogeddaboudid It's warts and all, or nothing at all