specialed

They’re not designed to be great on glaciers. They’re designed to be barely sufficient on glaciers to get you to the base of the rock. Once on the stone, they kick any ice tool’s ass in the placing pitons/cleaning aid nuts department. a specialized tool, to be sure... but considering that they weigh the same as a super-light ice axe, they're a lot more useful on technical rock routes My short X-15 straight shaft is just as good as any NWH for cleaning and hammering pins. Just a tad bit more unwieldy. Its worth the tradeoff of having a point at the end and it climbs ice damn good too.

splain how this darwinawardwinner behavior is sumpin you wanna chestbeat about? risk taking behaviour has been shown in many species to correspond to increased desirability of mates so am i to assume you do these 'risk taking' rappels in front of an audience of ovulating hot chicks? otherwise whats the point? maybe as a half time show at the local high school football game? No but you can apparantly talk shit about it afterwards.

Northwall hammers suck ass for glaciers, cause they don't have a point on the bottom. I too use a straight shaft tool for this purpose.

Devil's club lucky if my substance-fortified blood doesn't infect and kill it.

An angry midget wedged into an offwidth chimney in Zion... no really, probly the 5 equalized nuts all in either extremely shitty rock or behind loose flakes on the west pillar of the Eye Tooth.

How's this any different from bolted rock routes on Garfield, Baring, and up at the pass?

Either just clip your daisy/aider set-up directly into the bolt or if you want to be real fast put a fifi hook on your setup and just hook 'em!

If you're goin that far, why not go to where there's real ice - like Canada. That way you don't actually have to hang out in colorado.

Erik's serious and so am I. We WILL guide you. And we will make turkey sandwiches for you too.

Silveretta 500's. They work real good with any boot that has a toe and heel bail. Any plastic boot, not just Koflachs, suck to ski downhill in. That's just the way it is. But you want 'em for transportation not making turns right? Plus if the snow conditions are good and you are a decent skiier you can make turns in mountaineering boots. As far as skis, go to Goodwill or Value Vilage and buy some old alpine boards at 185 - 195 cm. Those will treat to just fine. If you want to get fancy and throw down some cash you can get some shorter fatter boards which are nice because they are lighter, more maneuverable, and will float better in deeper snow. But then you have to pay more money and they also won't track as well on firmed up snow.

when I first started postong Dwayner and Pope had the funniest BEST TR's on this whole site. I think you have selective memory Erik. True. Though they were all made up bullshit involving Donna Top Step and Teddy Ruxpin.

Not northwest, but Caveat Emptor up Death Canyon in the Tetons has 3 or 4 killer, strenuous handcrack pitches. All at 10a. Also Girth Pillar proper is three pitches of mostly hands and some fingers. Really the best three pitches of rockclimbing anywhere.

I'm bringing firewood and quickdraws ...and lycra

put your eggplant in it

I meant the IMA gym brutha

Are those prices for UWers of for the general public. 'Cause that's way cheaper than venereal world and probably lots of hotty co-eds running around too.

Erik you forgot the part about the 40 of Old E and the Aggro-midget's tree bending episode.

I think he had to go on the lecture circuit so he could pay for his new bionic 360 degree turnin' arm.

Kaskade Trad Klan Journal is a much better idea.

Actually just slice peel and salt, let stand in colander 30 mins, rinse. Moussaka. Whatever. You probably want to scrub it clean and gridbolt the thing too.

Whatever you do with it, you gotta soak it overnight in saltwater

One thing I learned the hardway is that if you're gunna climb in the mountains with your tools you're going to be doing a lot of plunging as well as swinging. Make sure your tool has a palm-friendly grip from the top for plunging. I bought a set of CM Axars a couple years ago because I thought their moderate curved shaft would be good for the mountains, but the way the pick flares up on the top just bruises the shit out of my palms when I'm doing repetetive plunging.

...and a DSL connection

Yeah the only 11 on that climb is the super thin move to get into the hand crack, from there its bitchin 10a with the commiting but solid layback section. Tits!!

You should ask Dr. Sniff and his Tuna Boaters if they would be offended at such off color route names.