specialed

A little late, but... LAST weekend me and Eric W. went to climb the Hidden Pillar on Bardean in the Chehalis Range. Got lost on the drive in but luckily some campers had a map from which we were able to find the right road and determine that McClane's description and map were WRONG. Drove up the most fucked up road, trouncing my truck in the process, going over these heinous tank traps. I was like "What was that!!! My bumper??" And Eric's like: "Naah man, you lost your bumper like five minutes ago. Anyway, finally get to the trailhead and, of course, in classic Canadian style the trail is maintained immaculately, though you need a fuckin tank to get to it. We crank out the "7-8 hr." approach in 4.5 hrs and endure a cold bivy under the stars. Get up next morning and head to the east side of Bardean to get on the route. Do some sketchy firm snow climbing with lightweight hiking boots and no 'poons (left 'em at the car to save weight), but the obvious approach is blocked on both sides by gaping crevasses. No dice. Approach from the bottom is blocked by huge serace. Oh well, fuck it, lets do the Tuning Fork route instead because we can get to it, and Dru says its WAY GOOD. Get off route on the 3rd class section, simul-climb 5.9 in our hikers, then get back "on route" finally. Then we decide the route sucks ass because its all wandering around this non-descript face, with cracks that go nowhere and no natural line to follow. Bu we figure we'd better finish the route. We pitched out about three pitches up to 5.10 and simuled the rest up to 5.9. Finally top out after I deck onto a ledge after attempting to run out a dirty 5,10 finger crack. But only scrapes and bruises on my elbows to show for it. The view from the top rocks though. We can see about every peak in Washington and B.C. and the coast. It was cool. Long but uneventful descent down and a somewhat less cold bivy that night and we wake up to rain. Bail out of there early and are drinking beer at the car by 11:00. The creek draining that cirque wa so clean and clear, it was rad.

Not to diss on the cock, but I've been way into the Twight GU thing recently. Eat Gu every 45 min. and maybe a bar or two all day, then at night eat to recover - HC and cheese and shit. My stamina is way better this way b/c it requires less water and less energy to digest GU and the occasional bar and keeps the blood sugar at optimum levels. Your bivy plan sounds good though.

Forrest: Erik just told me yesterday you were up there. If I'd known I would a said wut up at the bar the other night. But yup Solstice in Talkeetna rips. What did you guys get on on Hunter? Ryland: long brown hair, blue toyota hatchback. She was a firecracker.

Skipped the Gendarme. Not much of a TR but it went pretty smooth and unaventful. Except I'd have to say the scariest part of the day by far was Erik speeding like a lunatic down from the TH to get to Der Safeway before they closed.

Here's my abbreviated Alaska Range TR from May 22 - June 21. 2 weeks on the SE Fork of the Kahiltna: -Summited Hunter via Southwest Ridge in 2 days from camp. Stuck in small-ass Bibler with two other dudes and a total of 2 sleeping bags for 3 days and 2 nights in whiteout storm on the way back. -Topped out onto NE Ridge of Hunter after climbing ice guillet on the Mini-Moonflower Buttress. Sick ice route - grade 5. -Did about 1/5th of Deprivation on the North Butt to recon for future ascent. Ice was a bit rotten but lots of super cool mixed climbing. -Hung out with two 22 year-old NPS volunteer chicas and some drunk dudes from New Hampshire. 2 weeks in the Ruth Gorge: -Got stormed on for a week, sat in the Megamid and ate mad pankakes. Hung out with more New Hampshirians - the Darthmouth climbing team. -Did about half of the West Pillar of the Eye Tooth before sprinting back to camp to avoid imminent whiteout -Stood in awe of the biggest and sickest mountains I've ever seen. -Flew back to Talkeetna just in time to hang out with the ladies and drink beer at the Solstice party down by the river. Yee-haw.

Erik and I did it on Saturday from the north side 16 hrs car-to-car. It was a good time.

When she wants to cuddle and talk afterwards

Well you know what they say about redheads...

hey not all dumbs are blond... mmmkay. Except me.

A temporary neccessary evil, I mean nipple, eh? Our neighor in the Methow, Bill Lindsey, is a water extracting mother fucker. He's a hydrologist who sets up wells and sprinkler systems and shit. But I think he probably charges lots o' cash.

I'll stick this crayola so far up your ass...

Wallstein, you're a young pup, aren't you? It ain't the butterfly...ends are not looped--please re-read the description. One of the biggest advantages of the French Coil is that you don't have to restack it. When you coil over the neck, you DO have to restack it if you want your rope to feed cleanly to a lead climber. It might be faster to coil over your neck when you initially coil, but it defeats the whole purpose of the French Coil, which is to have a rope that doesn't have to be restacked when you're ready to climb again. So the French Coil done on the palm of your hand is indeed faster overall than coiling over your neck, which is not "neat" in my experience when you undo that coil and are ready to lead off again. Yeah Wallstein doesn't have much experience climbing or anything, and he really needs to work on his footwork too

Eat more dope.

Only Canadians and guides do it this way.

That website completely contradicts itselfs because on one hand it says how can we begin to label people's political positions, but then asks a series of over-simplified, standardized questions in order to label people as left right or centrist. Some of the answer options on the quiz are good, but about half the time the answer I wanted was not an option

Who cares? Get over yourself loser.

What happened to the Methow?

If your doped up you should be happy. In an artificial, drunk sort of way.

"I can't climb today because I have to study for my Criminal Procedure Exam tomorrow... Hey FUCK YOU, it might get your ass out of jail someday asshole!!"

Apparantly you haven't done the route either. So STFU wanker

You will most defenitly need a full body goretex suit and a 100 lb pack full of extra clothes and a live sheep. Chances of success are slim because I don't believe you have taken the glacier travel and crevasse rescue class at Alpental. You will probably in fact die.

Charlie I think you'll be fine. Generally June in pretty nice there, and often May is too. It will defenitly be climbable unless you get some heinous wind. Have fun dude!! Donini's Crack Tribal Boundaries Crack of Doom Funky Bolt ... and many others

think about the box outside the box

Naturally. But since it wasn't... it wasn't. Will Strickland needs to take advantage of his new found fame and position as the new Climbing Mag "Rising Star" photog-monkey and influene hotchick climbers to do bawdy and risque stuff for him to photograph because its "art."