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DaveD

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About DaveD

  • Rank
    stranger

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  • Location
    Vancouver
  1. Sweet action! Good to see you boys down south are still out getting some too.
  2. Hey, I'm heading to Leavenworth next weekend and was wondering if anyone has any suggestions on route selection as I have never been there. I climb 5.9ish on rear and 5.10+ sport. Single pitch, multipitch I am game for anything. I noticed that there is a new guide book out and I will be getting that this week. Thanks in advance for your sugestions. Cheers DaveD
  3. Question about ice tools?

    Hey thanks for such quick feedback, all very good. Cracked- The reason I ask such a general question is that I have been reading a lot of books, many with varying opinions. From what I can deduce for alpine ice a good choice would be a simple straight shafted adze and hammer. After looking at many of the manufacturers web sites it seems as though most companies offer very few choices of this type of tool so I was just looking for some other opinions. When I posted asking about using two tools I think that I phrased the question wrong. I have heard of people using one aggressize axe with one ice tool and I was wondering if anyone uses this system. Once again thank you everyone for your feedback. Cheers DaveD
  4. Question about ice tools?

    Hi all, I am keen to start taking on some of the alpine ice routes in the southwest B.C./Northwest Washington area and am wondering what to purchase for ice tools. I hope to get into routes such as Baker north ridge and I am wondering what you would recommend for tools. What do I need to get into steeper alpine ice? When is it necessary to use two tools instead of one? Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Cheers DaveD
  5. Shoe Advice?

    Hey All, Just looking for a little advice. I've been climbing for just over a year now, mostly sport, but now I am getting in to trad. I live in Vancouver and climb in squamish at a mid 10 level. I currently own a pair of Anasazi velcroes that I use for sport and bouldering and a old pair of Ace's that I don't like. I am looking for a good shoe that will be well suited to squamish gear climbing. I find the aces too stiff and my 5.10's are fitted too tight for longer routes. Something that is more sensitive than the aces but that is comfortable enough for long climbs would be great. I am having difficulty deciding as it seems 90% of shoes are sport slippers. Any advice would be greatly appreciated and I thank you in advance. Cheers DaveD
  6. Anchor questions

    Hey everyone. Just found the site and I think it's great. I have a few questions about tying in and belaying from a anchor off of two bolts. When tying in at a belay station do you tie in to the master point of the anchor or off one of the bolts? I have read that the best way is to tie into the master point with a figure 8 on a bight on the climbing rope. I have also heard that it is better to tie into a locker off one of the bolts and use the master point to run the belay threw. Any opinions? Also when the second reaches the anchor, what should they tie in to? The master point? A bolt? Any advice would be apreciated. Cheers DaveD
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