wayne

Let me know if you head in there again Dave it sounds cool. w

Hey Dave, I took those low-top stiff Sportivas. I wish I had brought aluminum crampons. It is cool the only 'gear"I had was a long axe. You can go ridiculously light on that trip at least.

Nice work Canada! With very few bribes too I hear!

I was lucky to pick a cool day to do it, so I didnt go through the water like usual. I took alot of care with hydration and feeding. 1 blister, no groin chaffing. I didnt know what to make of the pelvis pain. Never had that before. I am glad I cant get pregnant. It really hurt. I got real proficient at peeing while walking. My socks were already wet so....

With the all the offroute travel, I sorta did the Fremont and the peaks to the south of Logan too? Came in from Thunder creek

Gravity seems particularly strong the morning after this one. Vitals: Mt Logan , Elevation: 9,078 Approach-rt ; 40+ miles Elevation gain : 10,000'+ Elapsed time - car to car: 24-hrs , 17 min.(includes 9 hr bivy) Hurting : Quads , Glutes, Groin(?), FEET, and calves. It rained the day before so the thick bushes where loaded with water. I tried to knock it loose with a stick but gave up after a few miles. I was soaked the entire trip as a result. I left the car at the late hr of 430pm, determined to get as far in as possible. I carried a micro-bivy in 15 miles that evening and collapsed in a nervous sleep. the ranger lady had me freaked out about bears, and there was skat everywhere. After dreams of collapsing bridges, I accidently let myself sleep in till 430 am. I still had many miles and elev to go. the way was debrised and hard to follow. The climb would have gone well but it was whited out much of the time, and I got miles off route. I was the first to the summit this year and I wished for any type of veiw. I hear it is amazing. What I did see on the way in was great . Very beautiful apraoch and a bit long as well. I took a shortcut down, and I was very lucky to get down it in tact. You know how those NC shortcuts can be soul-crushers. I found I was way behind doing it in under 24 so I ran half the way out -not recommended. I had never pushed myself to that exteme before. It was interesting to see where my bodies limits were. It hurt worst in my pelvis, but the highspots in my quads where ready to snap as well. I havent dabbled much with this speed climbing stuff, I would like to do more with smaller climbs and what not. It is interesting to see what can be done in a day. Are there none which cant be done.? I suspect mt Fury ne butt is one . The rest keep falling..,...Wayne

Really, really tired right now, but I promise to give a full tr tomorrow. The pubclubbers will get 1st hand though first.

It is soooo hard to find used guidebooks. Climbers are very anal about their books.

He BP I just found this thread. It is way more than Becky states. He says it is a variation , when in fact it is a 12 pitch independent route. He mentioned 5.11c, which is half true. The hardest pitches we lead ground up free where 11c but we toped roped several sections much harder. We did all the pitches "free"(some on tr) at 5.12b. Probably took aid (on lead) on 3 pitches over all. So it has yet to see a free ascent.(Big Bone being thrown here). Go for it . I have topos of the whole thing and a vivid memory of it!! As far as just the head wall. I believe the first pitch of it is .11b. The second .11c, and the third is .11d. The 12b is on the pillar below the headwall.

Hey , He's a big movie star and all right now. I am sure he is proud to be a part of the amazing saga of Vertical Limwit. I would change my name , then my appearance . Good job though Eddie! You are the real deal.(even if you are only a lurker.)

Thank You Very Much. Matt, could you please pm with your phone # ?

Its been there a while? Is it Gastons?I will keep it for a week or so then toss it.

Jens couldnt get out of school till 4 pm, but we still bombed up there and did the big approach hill that same evening. It is an interesting trail to try to stay on in the dark. There is snow from the top of the 1st big hill and on. The next day was a killer. It was nice to run into"Gaston" in the mourning.(was that your crampon we found?)We finished of the approach and started climbing Little Mac spire and continued to the summits of the ones west of it untill we reached The Pyramid.Jens pointed out that we made it to the top of inspiration 24 hrs after we started the approach. Not bad for his first trip to the pickets! We spent a rainy night at the Pyramid -Inspiration col and then bailed to the hot valley, yet cold beers below.

Excellent photo Klen. The russian rt is the big dark wall to the left on the sw peak. I made it up the ridge just right of it and it was choss. maybe Bonanza can be choss and be a classic too?

So who may have picked up the crazy creek chair I left there? Please PM me and Ill get it back. I found a crampon in the southern Pickets if someone here is looking to get it back as well

I will be heading there earlier, anyone want to carpool ? I will drive.

Sure Iain , I will just swing by portland on my way to exit 32. I was just down there at that bbq . and again on my way back from Cal. Were you at that bbq?You guys gatta do that again!

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anyone want to carpool and leave soon...?

I would encourage the employees to unionize, but mine just voted to authorize a strike. In the long run its worth it though.

I am looking to do a big alpine project starting Tues 6-23 if possible. 5 days , much suffering. 206-818-1327

Dont bother with the vestibule on weekends it is too small.

The old Climbing guide to Or was notorious for mistakes,(one on every page in the Smith section) .One page had mistakes on every route,says Alan Watts. A glaring error on the approach to Mt Washington that has sent countless people into the wrong area! (Padgens Lake). Oregon Rock and anything from Smoot, again, are bad. For content alone if nothing else, Select Alpine Canadian Rockies, as well as the Southern BC one are the best, next to the Portland Rock Climbs

I give Old School the most respect. That age had to be one of genuine adventure and romance. They were Tough people.

Great tr . It reminds me of when I first started exploring I rock It is a winter only thing, as things need to be glued in. Except for the toe-base area sport-rockclimbs which are summer only and dont have bolts yet. They are of high quality as well. It took me at least 6 or so attempts before I summited it in winter. It was too feathery along the ridge top mostly. It was hairball! Later I found out the walls below offer the most fun as the ice is firmer and the rock generally is too. I since have done 10or so new routes ,few of which I even summited on, as they would be grade 5 efforts if I had!!!!!. Just getting to the top of the west gable involves 3-4 solid pitches of hard mixed. It would still be 2 more after that to the summit!