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wayne

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Everything posted by wayne

  1. Sorry Colin I misunderstood you, but I say it cant be done though. I wonder if the rock is that bad on it like it says. Fury is pretty bad up high. The Swiss peak is a cool looking peak, I wonder what the summit register says in it. How about a traverse of luna -fury-swiss-challenger-whatcom?
  2. For freakin out loud , great job man! , I cant wait to try them myself. Any issues with the travel across the ridges?
  3. I guess you did specify strapon. I over-looked it . Well glad it worked out and good luck Greg. Lets see some pics ,after
  4. Colin says the n. face of Swiss peak cant be done in 24. It prolly hasnt even seen a repeat much less a quick appraoch to the area at all. I just love it in general when people say something cant be done.
  5. I have been following this arguement of speed vs. enjoyment that has shown itself in this thread. I feel it suits a person to get what ever they can from this sport. I have gone slow and fast. I have almost always enjoyed my time in the hills. Speed is sometimes more important on some pursuits than others . On Logan, It started raining as I left. There is always a reason to hurry in the mts. Enjoy what moments you are in . There may be a day this will all seem quite silly. Here again is the perspective I have on the speed variation.. Chart It is a small little part of what ever you go after in this amazing sport. Everyone have a safe 4th!
  6. Easy pass is the easiest way in there, so Chal 1st. Which leaves you with which rt on fury? ne butt? tough climb after any peak. If you could somehow get to the backside you could do the easy rt. The peaks are not conveniently connected unless your Croft
  7. Cathedral ridge is a good late season do
  8. wAY TO PUT THE SQUARES INSIDE EACH OTHER!
  9. It is a hinged type, step in binding anyone want it/
  10. Thanks, Anybody done all 3 -9,000ers beginning with Maude-to- Fernow ? In24? Thats my latest thought ,fwiw .Thanks for the thread you posted below Ursa. It doesnt seem like its been done then.!
  11. I can help you Greg, I live in northgate, stop by
  12. Sweet looking stuf Matt. I will take you up on your offer !
  13. Let me know if you head in there again Dave it sounds cool. w
  14. Hey Dave, I took those low-top stiff Sportivas. I wish I had brought aluminum crampons. It is cool the only 'gear"I had was a long axe. You can go ridiculously light on that trip at least.
  15. Nice work Canada! With very few bribes too I hear!
  16. I was lucky to pick a cool day to do it, so I didnt go through the water like usual. I took alot of care with hydration and feeding. 1 blister, no groin chaffing. I didnt know what to make of the pelvis pain. Never had that before. I am glad I cant get pregnant. It really hurt. I got real proficient at peeing while walking. My socks were already wet so....
  17. With the all the offroute travel, I sorta did the Fremont and the peaks to the south of Logan too? Came in from Thunder creek
  18. Gravity seems particularly strong the morning after this one. Vitals: Mt Logan , Elevation: 9,078 Approach-rt ; 40+ miles Elevation gain : 10,000'+ Elapsed time - car to car: 24-hrs , 17 min.(includes 9 hr bivy) Hurting : Quads , Glutes, Groin(?), FEET, and calves. It rained the day before so the thick bushes where loaded with water. I tried to knock it loose with a stick but gave up after a few miles. I was soaked the entire trip as a result. I left the car at the late hr of 430pm, determined to get as far in as possible. I carried a micro-bivy in 15 miles that evening and collapsed in a nervous sleep. the ranger lady had me freaked out about bears, and there was skat everywhere. After dreams of collapsing bridges, I accidently let myself sleep in till 430 am. I still had many miles and elev to go. the way was debrised and hard to follow. The climb would have gone well but it was whited out much of the time, and I got miles off route. I was the first to the summit this year and I wished for any type of veiw. I hear it is amazing. What I did see on the way in was great . Very beautiful apraoch and a bit long as well. I took a shortcut down, and I was very lucky to get down it in tact. You know how those NC shortcuts can be soul-crushers. I found I was way behind doing it in under 24 so I ran half the way out -not recommended. I had never pushed myself to that exteme before. It was interesting to see where my bodies limits were. It hurt worst in my pelvis, but the highspots in my quads where ready to snap as well. I havent dabbled much with this speed climbing stuff, I would like to do more with smaller climbs and what not. It is interesting to see what can be done in a day. Are there none which cant be done.? I suspect mt Fury ne butt is one . The rest keep falling..,...Wayne
  19. Really, really tired right now, but I promise to give a full tr tomorrow. The pubclubbers will get 1st hand though first.
  20. It is soooo hard to find used guidebooks. Climbers are very anal about their books.
  21. He BP I just found this thread. It is way more than Becky states. He says it is a variation , when in fact it is a 12 pitch independent route. He mentioned 5.11c, which is half true. The hardest pitches we lead ground up free where 11c but we toped roped several sections much harder. We did all the pitches "free"(some on tr) at 5.12b. Probably took aid (on lead) on 3 pitches over all. So it has yet to see a free ascent.(Big Bone being thrown here). Go for it . I have topos of the whole thing and a vivid memory of it!! As far as just the head wall. I believe the first pitch of it is .11b. The second .11c, and the third is .11d. The 12b is on the pillar below the headwall.
  22. Hey , He's a big movie star and all right now. I am sure he is proud to be a part of the amazing saga of Vertical Limwit. I would change my name , then my appearance . Good job though Eddie! You are the real deal.(even if you are only a lurker.)
  23. Thank You Very Much. Matt, could you please pm with your phone # ?
  24. Its been there a while? Is it Gastons?I will keep it for a week or so then toss it.
  25. Jens couldnt get out of school till 4 pm, but we still bombed up there and did the big approach hill that same evening. It is an interesting trail to try to stay on in the dark. There is snow from the top of the 1st big hill and on. The next day was a killer. It was nice to run into"Gaston" in the mourning.(was that your crampon we found?)We finished of the approach and started climbing Little Mac spire and continued to the summits of the ones west of it untill we reached The Pyramid.Jens pointed out that we made it to the top of inspiration 24 hrs after we started the approach. Not bad for his first trip to the pickets! We spent a rainy night at the Pyramid -Inspiration col and then bailed to the hot valley, yet cold beers below.
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