wayne

Ridge Traverses and enchainments may be our generations best chance at doing something "new" > most of the major faces and lines have been done. we need to be creative from here on.Either that or move to B.C.

Yes thank you,It was worth at least 1 and a half hats.

Is anyone on this board , not, in love with him?

Directions to the Show (Thanks Cat-bird) All 3 of us will be there.(: The First Congregational Church is on Rockafeller about a block north of Everett Avenue. Take I-5 to the Broadway exit and take Broadway to Everett Avenue and turn left, then right on Rockafeller. Alternately you can stay on the freeway and exit at Pacific Avenue and take it to Broadway and turn right, then left on Everett Avenue, etc. Aug 6. 7 pm The team requests folks carpool , Please. . We will figure out a Seattle show, And I do pdx when it rains.

The actual leads on the Monster are more serious, but at least you know whats ahead. What we did: Day 1: Hike in and do al the Macs, Seems big but not that bad with an early start. Day 2,Get over all peaks till you get over the blob. Good bivy on w. summit. Day 3: the only real issues are on E twin and Himml, interesting getting around to Frenz. Get out as far as you can. We bivvied in Crescent Basin. Day 4 Chopping block and over the barrier and out.I think it could be done in 1 less day , Maybe. It seems the issue is how many nights on the ridge? Fast, light team , Maybe 1 night on. The way out is long too. I would love to topo it . Sounds like alot of work though.

Speaking of Becky and trivia, What is the highest peak in WA that he Hasnt climbed?

I really enjoyed the line you guys started up. I just remmember the near stain in the shorts I got at the top

Thanks all ( Alp K too) I always seem to put my own foot too near my mouth .I apologize for relateing the route so much through me, poor style no doubt. Oh well. Please lets get over the Wayne stuff and focus on the important stuff. Most of my words are about the actual route. I would like to keep it that way, unless you would like to discuss the great set of partners that I had the honor to do this with, A better start to a career,I have never seen as I have with young Colin. Mark is one of the funniest people I have ever met. I couldnt wait to hear the next thing he said. Jens will deal with this route in great style given another chance at it. Dbb my apologies for the spot, you handle it much better than I would have. Everyone who put up with my obssesion with this thing. (especialy my best gal) So. back to the route.. There had to be others who thought of this . It is facinating to hear it. I couldnt talk about it as much as I wanted to. It was becoming the worst secret I ever tried to keep, I was simply too excited about it. It has got to be the the most amazing ridge line in the area..I always thought it was so obvious. With the Croft style traverses in style now. To absolutly stay on the " Ridge" would be a very hardcore way to do it. Unless time was spent drilling rehehsing etc. We tried to stay within a 20 degree circumfrence of the natural ridge feature. I havent got to into this " Travers vs. Enchainment "discussion . It is great how naturally the line leads you. On the unexplored parts it seemed like a classic line done hundreds of times before.

Sounds tight ,Thrash, Hey tell Blake Hi for me!

I would really like my ski pole back , please. I also lost an OR hat, Thanks

That is an amazing and serious route,yes? Rat was convinced we were off route at the beginning. Sounds like you pegged it though. I dont see any mention of having problems at the top? Both of our parties ended up in deep shit up there. Good job, and tell Pete and Billy ,hi for me

Lots of climbers have looked at that thing , though it has yet to see much exploration. Tim and I did a mixed route there a dozen or so years ago. Thats all I know. Break out your drill ,D

Colin , Mark. Dru ,Lowell , and everone. I apologize if there is a part of me that you dont like or agree with. I am like a overly excited, annoying, boisterous child that just got a new toy. By all means, Lowell you really should congradulate Colin and Mark, as they are truly wonderful people. My respect for my fellow climbers and the proud history of the sport will always be far bigger than my pride in self, Wayne

Ok write me off as an expressive. I detest the attitude of sand bagging and reserved ego you describe. Its not about me or us but its about the climb. I dont expect you or anyone else to "relate" to me at all, but you can insert your last sentence alltogether

This climb is sooo much more amazing than I could have ever expected! There were classic sections like I have never done before. It is like taking your 6 most classic routes and combining them together. I expected the best part to be Inspiration( I have done it 3 times now ) >the best were : #1 The Rake!!!! aka, the Blob. Half a mile of exctasy! #2 The Himmelhorn ....Amazing pice of work! #3 The East Twin Needle ...Wafer thin Arete with incredible exposure,ending in a 5.10 Overhang on tiny nuts. #4The classic traverse of Inspiration/4 fingers. I am giving a slide show aug 6th 7pm, @ the 1st Congregational Church in Everett. I hope to have my 2 partners show there too!

I am giving a slide show on this ,on aug 6 at the Everett Mountaneers at 7 pm, First Congregational Church. I am hoping to have Colin and Marks pictures there too.

Colins thread

I would greatly appreciate the ski pole back that you took from me, Wayne

Good Job DJ ! We all started with having fun up there, and we always will, Inshallah!! Hey not-so-newbies.......Have a look at the East ridge of Middle Sister. It is a nice route for the volcano endeared.

Was Stim Bullit pre-war? What about some of the Mazamas that came up here to poach routes? Ida Darr etc.

This could really suck as it unfolds! In the mid 90s there was a huge section that collapsed in the low center of the main face. It could still be calving?

I wa soloing Eagle rock a few years ago and found myself too near a nest. I then told the rangers about hem. As much as I hate closures , I am respectful of the residents and Eagle is a choss-piole anyways.

There are 3 tied for 1st Burgundy,Nutsack andTwin Spires and maybe Index-middle. There are basically 3 types of people, those that can count, and those that cant .

As far as the basic pharm thing, I am huge on Diamox too! Halcion is good for sleep at low tudes . It will put you out for sure.

Thats not their thing Im sure. Colin, did they do North?