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wayne

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Everything posted by wayne

  1. Excellent photo Klen. The russian rt is the big dark wall to the left on the sw peak. I made it up the ridge just right of it and it was choss. maybe Bonanza can be choss and be a classic too?
  2. So who may have picked up the crazy creek chair I left there? Please PM me and Ill get it back. I found a crampon in the southern Pickets if someone here is looking to get it back as well
  3. I will be heading there earlier, anyone want to carpool ? I will drive.
  4. Sure Iain , I will just swing by portland on my way to exit 32. I was just down there at that bbq . and again on my way back from Cal. Were you at that bbq?You guys gatta do that again!
  5. anyone want to carpool and leave soon...?
  6. I would encourage the employees to unionize, but mine just voted to authorize a strike. In the long run its worth it though.
  7. I am looking to do a big alpine project starting Tues 6-23 if possible. 5 days , much suffering. 206-818-1327
  8. Dont bother with the vestibule on weekends it is too small.
  9. The old Climbing guide to Or was notorious for mistakes,(one on every page in the Smith section) .One page had mistakes on every route,says Alan Watts. A glaring error on the approach to Mt Washington that has sent countless people into the wrong area! (Padgens Lake). Oregon Rock and anything from Smoot, again, are bad. For content alone if nothing else, Select Alpine Canadian Rockies, as well as the Southern BC one are the best, next to the Portland Rock Climbs
  10. I give Old School the most respect. That age had to be one of genuine adventure and romance. They were Tough people.
  11. wayne

    i-rock

    Great tr . It reminds me of when I first started exploring I rock It is a winter only thing, as things need to be glued in. Except for the toe-base area sport-rockclimbs which are summer only and dont have bolts yet. They are of high quality as well. It took me at least 6 or so attempts before I summited it in winter. It was too feathery along the ridge top mostly. It was hairball! Later I found out the walls below offer the most fun as the ice is firmer and the rock generally is too. I since have done 10or so new routes ,few of which I even summited on, as they would be grade 5 efforts if I had!!!!!. Just getting to the top of the west gable involves 3-4 solid pitches of hard mixed. It would still be 2 more after that to the summit!
  12. That is a smokin fast time on that route good work man
  13. The Seattle crew is different.Pub clubs have mostly the same 5-10 people with a few newbies each time. they have 8-30 people show up at pub clubs and the bbq and ropeup draws 60-80 people which blows me away that they all come out of the woodwork. I have lived in many places and have always apprececated the pdx gang over all comers. You are all so cool. It was Great to see all my old friends. I miss you all and you can always stay here at my north basecamp chill zone
  14. did see any at Powells
  15. There must have been 50 frickin people there! Lots of fun . The hosts were great to allow us to trash thier hous. How late did it go??
  16. The locals like the obscurity to keep it from getting crowded. They made it very clear to Tim they didnt want any beta in his book. You could find a copy in the portland mazama library. I am lucky to have 2 of each of the printings. Why are climbers so anal about books?
  17. I can do wednesday. I just need a time and a place so I can tell my friends
  18. I would enjoy drinkin a couple with the Oregon gang next week. Whos got a good spot to go?
  19. Saturday , Me and a friend are headed to Lambo, anyone else up for it? We can gang up on the Bag of Tricks. Such a great climb.
  20. Do the 2 Rabbit ears for sure. I like Newts route on Bridge. Anything on the lower Menag. And of course THE MONSTER is out there!!!5.11b/c
  21. There is a beauty of that show , I cannot describe. What is stranger still is.... I agree with the trask. I am scared
  22. It was Alpine K chasing a hippie.
  23. I too remmember the taste of their food. It is very good. A little spendy , but where else are you going to find bbq in that town. Breakfast at the lodge is good too.
  24. So , Is the road open yet?I Looked at the site now and it says snowbound the last 2.5 mi. I dont know how long ago it was updated, anyone got info?
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