Drederek

I think they are in the little red supplement, mostly 11ish.

Slightly off topic but I use a lot of energy training on the treadmill and I've always wondered why they are sucking energy out of the wall instead of pumping it back in. My club is so cheap I can't believe they are not selling all the energy wasted there. What about an oldtime wristwatch type generator with a removable rechargeable battery for each wrist?

Eventually the flake will come down, even if you don't put the route up. You would not want to hear about someone dying on your route. Seems like reinforcing the feature could be accomplished without leaving much of a trace if you really think its integral to the route and has a short life expentancy as part of the route.

Yeah that little stretch in the woods was really icy a few weeks ago. I got my axe out for that bit. Nice to hear the road is coming along.

almost as hard as 5.6!

I'm sure it has. Today would have been a good day to try if the rain would have held off. Some steepness off the NE side of Ellinor, towards Mildred lake. I think peeps ski down and hike back up.

in '03 I thought 5.9 was fair for JT

Its the one next to this

Well the route in the pic was a nice little 11 for a few years till some holds were added. Skip the hold between the first and second ledge and the one a couple feet above the second ledge. I'm sure it was different than that when originally established. The line to the right was a seven or maybe a nine. Right of that there were 3 tens to the same anchor. The furthest right was an aid ladder that morphed into hard eleven with some nasty monos and a dyno to the chains to clip em. The best climb was on the arete (haha) to the left which went out the overhang and back onto the face but the college pulled it down long ago I heard they shut that wall down?

Thanks Mr Bo for making reading this thread worthwhile.

How is that any different than a solid 5.9 climber onsighting a bunch of nines and putting up a few tens? Sure those climbs are way harder than what most of can do but they are obviously not that difficult for him.

If I only hit the weights once in a week I'll work my back and shoulders. And you can't do too much work on your abs.

A few things I've learned over the years, may work for others. Lift weights, lo weight hi reps for endurance, improving vascularity and most importantly to keep the body in a better balance. Rock climbing tends to tweak your body by making the muscles in the front half of your bod stronger and pulling your skele out of its normal shape. No crimping in the gym if theres any other way. Open grip will make you stronger. Avoid monos like the plague, theres no real reason to train for them except maybe climbing 13's or higher. Tape up when you feel a finger going bad instead of waiting till its really hurt. Leave the tape on till it falls off - you know you're going to keep training and if you have an active job you'll be reinjuring it all the time. Carry enough weight so your ribs don't stick out. You'll catch fewer colds and have a reserve for the occasional hard day.

Make copies of topos to stick in your pocket, not all the excellent routes others have mentioned are straightforward. If you've done the descent from Frogland descending from Epinephrine is much simpler since you'll have done the bottom half. Water is cheaper down there than it is here. All the cheap buffets I went to sucked - theres lots of good restaurants.

Hint: read more than the title of the link if you want more info! Unlike many articles in my local newspaper this one actually gets to the point and tells the why and how of it.

Tenino was fine!

Then you get bolt wars. When the trads who are all about respecting tha FA don't.

Not too dark and wet yesterday! Jibby and I put up 4 routes in the afternoon. The crag is mostly dry from Legends to the east end, with about half the climbs having some wetness near the top. We climbed Manly, Rubber Boa, Virgins and Confucious. The Governor and C n H were dry as well. Hope to go back out Thursday...

Nice tr and photos. Sorry to hear the ice below the fluff has persisted, We ran into that a week and a half ago on Ellinor. I wonder if the sun has consolidated it by now...

Stars and the PG-X rating are different in my book (no pun intended). Starrs tell the quality of a route and PG-X tells you how dangerous a route is. Duh

I don't mind the stars so much. They are just another clue to what you're getting into. I like the pg - x ratings because I've done a few r rated routes and I'm getting too old for it. Any guidebooks rating system is fine with me as long as its fairly consistent. Finding 5.6's at JT that my wife will enjoy can be problematic at times We've actually done some that were 5.6s!

Climbed Inti a coupla springs ago. It suffers from a severe easing of difficulty through the middle followed by deteriorating rock at the top. A good GF route if she can handle the hike and the crux on p2. Very safely bolted. We thought it would be a tiger but its just a lamb. Pink Tornado left was more entertaining but I like awkward stuff more than straightforward stuff. We're headed for Dogma this year. One of my fave pitches at rr is the 10c fist crack on Cloud Tower. Fiddler really pissed me off, passing nice scoops up for hanging belays. I'll second Eagle Dance over Lev 29. And I really liked Frogland but maybe it was the company. Oh and we did Res in 23 hrs, hotel to hotel. Took us 5 hrs to stumble out in the moonlight

the elephants trunk, it's desirable to get to the top from the top of the the tower and may include a tiny bit of simulclimbing. Nice TR of a nice climb.

I'll get up there next year Andy!