Drederek

It was just fine at the Tieton today!

I liked the part on ESPN where the announcer said something like they were patriots who did it for their country. Seems more likely to me they did it for a free trip to the Himalayas!

Hey Off, any chance of getting an online update on current conditions about midday today? I'm back from the beach and need to pull some sweet Tenino sandstone!

Found some very good quality rock at Whaleshead Beach, about 5 mi north of Brookings. Didn't have my shoes but had some fun, just had to take the easy options on the traverses and pass on a great looking line up out of a cave.

I'm sure law schools pump out lawyers faster than they are dieing off so we need find "jobs" for them.

Well I'm glad to be stuck in the lower part of the middle because there is not a lot of people climbing these routes. Too hard for those weekend warriors and too easy for sporto badasses. It was even less crowded here 10-15 years ago I think. But as others have said whats really cool about climbing is that everyone can find routes that challenge them. The ratings are just a tool to help you get the amount of challenge you're after.

Somethings gotta be done, this is a travesty!

I started looking at Climbingredrocks and Climbingjoshuatree years ago, have gotten a lot out of them. Its also nice to scope out different areas and get a feel for them. CC.com is great and all but sometimes its nice to look at climbs instead of bullshit

Glad you survived that belay! I wouldn't willingly belay from such a poor spot. Retreating a bit or simuling past to a better locale would be much safer. Your partner is trusting you to set up something that will hold both of you.

I'll shoot for 6-6:30

Anybody going to try it tomorrow?????

Nice work and great TR! Did you even need the headlamps with that moon shining down? Must have been a cool hike in. JRCO and I bivi'd that nite atop the gendarme and summited about 9am. There was one particularly large rockfall onto the Stuart glacier about dawn, did you guys see it? I guess you would have been down below or past the glacier by then.

If it is Blake must be in on it. If its not I'm sorry, I just have a skeptical streak in me. I remember there being a lot more goats in the in the Olympics 10 years ago and while its cool to see one now and again I don't see a decline in their population as being a bad thing. A large enough herd to support one of Dru's bedmates would cause significant damage to the hillsides!

I disagree. The bolts are not along the natural line of the climb. Its much easier to stay on a more direct course to the left of the bolts. This is one of my wife's favorite climbs and we do it once a year or so. I don't come within ten feet of the first bolt, placing a small cam at the overlap above the start instead (also out of the line but providing much more protection from going over the roof). Then I wander up and over to the next couple of bolts before passing the rest of em up. I've always assumed there were more edges along the line of bolts that have since been worn away - making those 2-3 clips are most likely the scariest part of that pitch. If the FA wants to alter the route he may want to reassess the whole job and not just slap a fix on it.

We dive at dawn

I use netscape but I think I've figured this out, I just emailed a pic to myself and saved it from there to desktop. Hopefully Hotmail has worked its magic and it'll upload here just fine now. So easy a caveman could do it! Maybe a three move problem up the ever so slightly overhanging dihedral using the moss covered arete and some nice slopers for feet.

The weather looks like it was slightly better than last sunday. Hiked up towards Marmot pass with the wife and only got a 10 second view of Boulder ridge. Are those two peaks on the right Buckhorn in your last pic?

minddoc = donnie baker

I've climbed Straight street perhaps 4-5 times in the last 10 years. Other than a few holds near the bottom the first pitch is a slab, reminiscent of the lower angled climbs on the apron at Squamish. As such its always seemed ok to me to be clipping bolts on the way up. After clipping a few bolts on p2 it turns into a more disorganized traversing crack system with gear placements up to the layback roof finish. Its a great climb that people have been climbing as it is since 2001. I prefer to clip every other bolt and lead it all in one long pitch. Not a lot of 190' pitches at Leav, please don't ruin this one. If you want a total gear route there is a very good one 15' to left, Kitty corner. There is room for all kinds of climbs here. Perils of Pauline just doesn't seem worth all the hullabaloo (sp?) to me. Pretty much a one move wonder and not that hard if you're good on slopers. Didn't get the onsight but probably would have a few (10) years ago when I climbed harder stuff. Gun Rack feels a lot like a gym climb, steep and fun with large holds and a roof to pull. When you hike up the hill on the great trail realize that a high percentage of those beating the trail into the hillside did this climb. Have only done Javelin once that I recall, at the end of a hot day. I was happy to get a strenuous climb so easily. I would like to thank those who put up these routes (and all the other routes I've climbed in the last 30 years), they are not among the boldest but I had a great time climbing them.

Seems like preserving it would be the most aesthetic. Good eye to spot such a nice line J!

I'm not sure that statement couldn't apply to virtually every "generation" of climbers since about the time of the first ascent of Mont Blanc. So climbing ethics are a dynamic thing?

That's some nice happy My Little Pony shit, but the truth is that many of the 11worth rap bolters and pad people don't respect the climbs and routes put up by climbers from prior generations. As it appears DH does not respect my view I don't understand why I should give a rats ass about his.

The people who put up those routes gave up time, effort and money to do so. Respect their views, put up your own routes and I'm sure they will respect yours. If we all agreed on style, every route would be done the same way, and I think the world would be poorer for it. Vive le diffrance!

Sweet!

Enquiring minds need to know, do we got a shot this week or did your little slice of heaven get soaked?