mattp

I'm hoping to work on an ongoing project at Darrington tomorrow if anybody wants to go. We'd climb several pitches and do some cleaning, and etc.

Hanman did most of the "cleaning." The guy just can't help turning a getaway with his wife, a climbing day with friends, or even just a day off work where he heads for the hills by himself into a work party.

For Erock and Tracks, I have a more up to date TOPO. PDF

Nice one. The North Ridge is one of my favorite climbs. It may not be a good summer choice, but in Winter it can be great! Thanks for posting.

I hope nobody objects to a sales pitch here, but how many of you folks have contributed to the Index Fund? I add this message here because I'm thinking that dedicated Index climbers are likely to view this thread. [solicitation] There are a lot of ways you could look at it but I would say that anybody who thinks Index is one of their favorite places to climb and who visits there every chance they get might weigh a donation there compared to a gym membership - except that this we hope will be a "one time" donation rather than an ongoing fee. How much did you spend at the gym last year? What about your gas and beer money for one season at Index? That shiny portaledge that you bought and used one night on the Upper Town Wall? If Index is not your "favorite" place to climb, but "important" to you, consider that RIGHT NOW now we have an opportunity to secure access and ownership there, and think about what it is worth. We're over half way to our fund-raising goal ($165k out of $300k) and we need your support. [/solicitation] The Washington Climbers Coalition has an option to buy Index Town Wall, and our plan is to turn it into a permanent climbing park. The area is presently in private ownership and the owner has been permissive over the years but wants to sell, proposes to sell the area for potential quarrying, and easily could sell to someone less friendly to climbing. Meanwhile, we have an opportunity to make some basic improvements to parking and installation of a toilet, and secure upgraded crossing status with the Burlington Northern. If there was ever a worthy cause, this is it.

Nice one, Ade!!! I've been up there myself a couple of times.

I bet that "tree dodging" on the slope back down to highway 2 is an understatement, eh K? I skied it ten years ago, with much more snow cover than now, and it was somewhere betweeen challenging and trying then.

I think Telemarker is right. For ski mountaineering and what I find to be "real" skiing, Washington ski season really starts in late winter (when the ski areas are about to close), and real dependable comfort for rock climbing (the season) doesn't really kick in until June or whenever summer really kicks in. Conversely, at the end of the season, climbing conditions are often good when everybody is praying for snow and they have put their rock shoes in the closet, but the skiers are out chasing powder days and rock-skiing at "Paradise." Don't get me wrong: I'll be out at Index in March and Paradise in October, but we're not unlike the downtown department stores, selling Winter coats in August and bathing suits in February.

I was there a month ago. It was open to 50' short of the Granite Sidewalk approach at that time. WE cut out a bunch of trees blocking the road there, and hope to reclaim it to the former campsite and parking area below the sidewalk but tne next step will require a small crew with some rock bars.

Many years ago, when some friends of mine were missing after climbing the N. Face of N. Twin (I think that was the climb), a ranger remarked that it was usually the relatively new or the very experienced climbers who, when reported missing, were dead. My friends made it, but the message I took home was that not only bumblies die in the mountains. Serious climbers -- especially serious climbers with the kind of "drive" that many of us say we aspire to -- die.

Bug, I'm not interested in going back over old history from six or eight ears ago. Your facts are not quite correct but, really, I disagree with the whole premise of your argument here. We may have handled Hugh's threat toward you incorrectly but there really is not much unclear about cc.com's policy about threats. I also disagree with the basic suggestion that abuses in bolting threads are dealt with quickly. In large part they have never really been "dealt with" at all.

I learned some time ago that I have nothing to gain by participating in any “who’s the jerk” discussion but, just to be clear, I’ll note that in nine years of this site I remember using two peoples real names in a fashion where they didn’t appreciate it. In both cases I did so as a poster and not with any special knowledge or power as a moderator, and I did so in a forum where I do not have moderator authority. In both cases I felt that these particular posters had long abused any right to privacy. I realize that some disagree and all are free to reach their own conclusions. I have long argued that we wouldn’t see near the level of mud slinging around here if people used their real names. We wouldn’t see near the level of entertainment and probably not near the same level of information exchange, either, but in any event there has never been any move toward eliminating the use of avatars. Is bolting a “special” topic? Yes. First of all, bolting threads probably more than any other climbing related threads around here generate a steady stream of personal attack and posturing, the occasional out and out lie, and just plain ugliness. These are important issues but ion my view are not very well handled on cc.com. Anyone who doubts that I think bolting ethics is an important topic can read my article in the Northwest Mountaineering Journal Link to Article on History of Ethics. As moderators we’ve tended to take a “hands off” approach, and I’m sure some like that, but many do not. Feck has an idea that we can discuss. Oh, and Bug: I did receive an actual and credible death threat once. I handled it as I felt appropriate and the offender was not banned over it. How would banning someone address the potential danger?

I've made a lot of climbs on the Cascade volcano's and, in the Summer, the only one that I think really warrants a full on plastic boot is the Big R, and even on that mountain I think I'd rather go with something lighter - all things considered. Yes, if you take some leather combo-boots you may get them wet on the hike to your camp and then start out with cold feet in the morning, but the klunkiness of any plastics I've ever worn is very significant. To be honest, though, I'd have to say that I have not bought a pair of boots for almost ten years. Maybe they have wonder-boots now. I doubt it.

Don Ryan, of Tacoma (Raindawg, Dwayner, Merv Griffin, etc.): I'm not in favor of removing any routes that I can think of at the moment. As I said, I'm in favor of working toward bringing about what we would like to see in climbing. Matt Perkins

Damn! There are some new ideas brought up here - at least somewhere in the mix. To that extent: right on, folks! I've mostly stayed out of these discussions because we've been over most of this ground before and I've got other things to put my energy into. But it IS an important topic. I am the one who shipped the discussion to spray, so if you have complaints about that you can send them my way. Lest somebody think I am avoiding "the issue," I'll say that I think IB is really not as important as it is often portrayed on cc.com. The "controversy" remains alive on this website but I don't think most climbers, the folks from the Forest Service, or even the organizers at the various wilderness advocacy groups spend near as much time worrying about this climb as they do a myriad of other issues. That is not to say that the issues raised are not significant: the issues related to what we think of large bolted routes, bolting in Wilderness, power drills, etc. remain. And the route is certainly a lightening rod. I climbed 3/4 of the route and I was not looking critically at the bolting but there were a lot of bolts but few places where I noticed readily available natural pro options. I placed a couple of pieces of gear to supplement what was there. My vote would be to leave the route as it is and I'd like to see the cc.com beehive devote our energy toward bringing about more of what we want to see in the future. And me, personally? I've installed bolts on rappel and on lead, by hand and with a power drill. I've replaced old mank and maintained recognized classics. I have also put up some new routes - some with bolts and some alpine rock routes without any bolts. I think that the handful of routes I've established have been OK and I'd welcome feedback though I would be more happy to receive private messages rather than to be the topic of a debate thread on cc.com. I also think that overall there is in fact a great deal more agreement than one might think from reading here about such questions as what is acceptable regarding the establishment of sport vs. trad routes, bolts next to cracks, or what have you. Yes, many if not most climbers don't "think" about these questions as much as they might or probably should. I have done quite a bit to promote discussion and awareness over the years, though I've grown tired of "these threads" on cc.com. By the way: out of respect for our foul-mouthed good friend Lucky, I'll add my name and city. I think these discussions would be better if all participants did so. Matt Perkins, Seattle

What is this reference to "passing" the LSAT? Don't you just "take" the LSAT? Last I looked your score was a factor to be considered in law school admissions but there was no pass or fail.

Maybe that would be because you don't feature your triple biner biner acion. I re-played your video and it is not at all obvious. Nice video though. You capture, or at least do the best job I've seen of doing so, that rappel.

Nice video, Tvash. That is probably THE most exciting rappel I can think of - sparing something with crap-for-anchor, perhaps. Your video brings back memories very well.

We all wish you well, Eric. I don't know the industry but do you think the thief could actually unload his haul at a climbing gym or shop? Wouldn't the owner of such enterprise face losing their newly purchased "inventory" through the law enforcement process? On reflection, I do have a little bit of advice although it may not be anything you haven't already thought of. Talk to more than one, and preferably more than three attorneys and give great weight to the average of their recommendations. Attorneys come in all shapes and sizes (and we could divert this thread into ten pages of spirited "discussion" if we were to go down that path) but the one who tells you what you want to hear may not be the one you want. This is particularly true if they are not willing to take your case on a contingency.

Family law is not my specialty, Mark, but you are right: business liability is not either and I have no particular connection with attorneys in Bend.

If you are coming from afar, and opt for Mount Olympus, be sure to set aside a half day before or after to go out and take a walk at Rialto Beach. In my opinion the Olympic National Park has some of the most beautiful beaches in the world.

Personally, I like them to be a little short anyway. Capri length is ideal.

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You guys who rail against the religious right in this country have a point but I’d also say that one thing missing from this conversation is a mention of the fact that most Americans who go to church do not preach hatred and intolerance and this may also be true of Islam. Yesterday there was a show on KUOW where the guest was talking about the more modern and moderate tele-evangelists who are preaching against suicide bombings and teaching tolerance and women's rights on TV in Indonesia, on the Arabian Penninsula, and even here in the US. It doesn’t make good TV and this side of Islam may not draw much attention in our media, but the same is probably true of the bulk of religious America. Other than a few feel-good stories around Christmas time, our media rarely focuses on religious institutions' contributions to this country and Christian compassion doesn’t even enter the discussion of health care reform but we talk about abortion and death panels instead.

In January I've had good and bad days at Index, Darrington, Mt. Erie, and Vantage. As noted above, wind can ruin what might otherwise seem like a good bet from the forecast.