mattp

Folks that want to "school" someone like Josh on the Internet crack me up. Josh: if you want to tag along for some rock climbing at Darrington some time, let me know. I might make you scrub some moss, though. How are you with a wire brush?

Trip: South Early Winter Spire - South Arete Date: 7/11/2009 Trip Report: On Saturday I climbed South Early Winter Spire with Fred Beckey and friends. I had come prepared to serve as guide and there was plenty of that as one member of our party was relatively inexperienced but Fred, ever the master, did his share. I bet it has been some years since he’s been on this peak but he knew it well: as I started up the first pitch he offered “you won’t need that #3” and just as I started eying a crack heading up and right he asked: “Can you step back left?” (I found the #3 very useful but he was absolutely right about the move back left: one friction move and pitch 1 was dealt with via a variant that allowed me to set a perfect belay for my two ropemates). Fred took over the lead higher up on the route and, even if the climbing on this - the easiest route at the pass- wasn’t at all difficult, he showed his experience and care for his companions. Soon enough we were up at the summit and Fred was telling stories of his 1942 climb of the route with his brother Helmy to two other climbers who had come up another route. We soaked in some of the best views a climber can have around here and headed down. The descent went really well and, again, I was very impressed with Mr. Beckey. Fred was competent down-climbing awkward blocks and sandy slabs, and on the lookout for trouble as he pulled rappel ropes that could easily bring a loose rock with them or get snagged on a flake or tree. I’ve done several trips with Fred in recent years and this was one of the best. The South Arete rocks! Fred belays Megan across the "whaleback" high on South Early Winter Spire. Gear Notes: Whatever you bring will be adequate. The route has a couple of tricky spots, very short in duration, where gear in the 1"=3" range comes in handy and you could use a small piece somewhere along the line. Approach Notes: Walking shoes will get you to this one after the snow is gone. We encountered a few short bits of snow and the mosquitos were amazingly reasonable for a mid-season climb at Washington Pass!

I thought down-climbing the route itself was "definitely the way to go." It was almost as much fun as climbing up it, easy, fast, and meant we didn't have to carry over. We left camping gear at the ***** spot below the glacier, hiking boots and axe for the glacier, and climbed the route in rock shoes. Whatever you do, its a great route, eh?

I like the (relatively neglected) NW Ridge on Mt. Adams, though it does have over a thousand feet on talus that is vaguely loose and you could crush a finger when the boulders shift. It offers great views the entire way and a couple hundred feet of exciting steep snow climbing at the top that has enough exposure to be very exciting but is very manageable for a party of mixed abilities if the leader has much guiding savvy. From an attractive timberline camp well served by trail it is straight up and down.

There is a trick to that hard move on the first pitch of "Tracks." Try turning around and facing the other direction. To reach "Romanitica," the correct trail is a right fork not far past the double cairns, but the "trail" on up to the route is probably nonexistent at this point as, even when it was seeing regular traffic, there wasn't much of a trail and the Anenome grows in really strong every year. Romantica and two other routes start on low angled slabs below and left of the large white overhangs that make up the central part of the next higher tier of cliffs. The last two parties have reported following a topo that does not show the last pitch of "Erocktika" but there is a new topo that shows Erock and Tracks on one drawing and shows the complete version of both. The last pitch of E-Rock heads right, and then up an arete and there are a couple of cool features along the way. There is a rap route that parallels the route from the top of the last pitch, and a station part way up that last pitch, then two stations in space followed by one near that "third" pitch belay station but about 20 feet up and right, and there is an intermittent station before the ground (if anybody heads up there with quick links and chain - and I have some I bought for that purpose - I would be happy to have my 'biners back). I think it is possible to rappel the entire rap route with a single 60 meter rope, but it might turn out to require 62 meters -- until someone goes and verifies this its a good idea to take two ropes. I DO know that to rap from the top of the climb it takes three slightly less than 60 meter rappels if you skip the intermittent stations and all raps are nearly straight vertical in orientation so you shouldn't get lost. If you do decide to head up there with a single rope, consider what you think you are going to do if you get a single rope stuck. If somebody wants to go up there and help me tinker a bit, I'm still working on E-Rock. Send me a P.M. The single pitch route "Driving Miss Daisy" or "Trophy Wife" is very worthwhile, but once again the approach involves some thrash.

Does the Constitution say we have to build the biggest stockpile of weapons in the world, invade countries and topple governments from Latin America to South Asia, and maintain 200 military bases around the world? What does the Constitution have to do with this? BTW - in my opinion blaming Bush for the deficit is only slightly less absurd than blaming Obama for Bush' deficit. Yes, the President has some power over spending and I think it is more than fair to point out that the Bush who promised smaller government and avoidance of nation-building did just the opposite, but I don't think even the most hardcore balance-the-budget fanatic could turn the ship of state around. There is a huge American anti-tax and entitlement sentiment and we are a militaristic nation where a large percentage of our population simply accepts the fact that we SHOULD dominate the world and that to question our military machine is to be unpatriotic. Anybody who truly wants to shake up Washington won't last ten minutes in American politics and borrowing money is the American way.

OK then, you have a full day or maybe two to think about how to answer my question: why is military spending not something to complain about with the same vigor as social or environmental programs or, for that matter, economic stimulus?

I was a little miffed to read where you wrote "You do understand that ..." Then again, I wrote that you were "wringing your hands." Sorry about that, my good man.

Fairweather, I think you may be using a chart that is misleading. Whether purposely or not I don't know, but misleading. There is a similar one for the 2009 budget: Below the chart it specifically indicates that it does not include any accounting for the wars in Afghanistan and Iraq. In addition, it does not show payment on debt for past wars as part of military spending. What else is concealed in this presentation if these items are "off budget" -- do you think it might include secret funding for early childhood education? I doubt it. In addition, Social Security is paid for (presently though this is not sustainable) NOT by taxes that are part of the broader Federal budget. Look at your paycheck next week: it is a separate line item. The money is managed separately and I don’t know how the budget works but I don’t think either Obama or Congress have the same options to tinker with Social Security. Obama has no power to change or to draw upon the Social Security funding for other purposes - that is purely a Congressional matter and it will not be an easy task to take funds from that program. Another way to look at it is to consider only "discretionary spending" as in that which there is actually room to adjust the spending in an annual budget. Here's another chart, from a couple of years ago: 2006 budget, info from National Priorities Project. Lastly, with your smug and smarm, take any pie chart you wish and tell us how you think it is better to spend our tax dollars on military endeavors that are killing hundreds of thousands of people and accomplishing little or nothing the benefits us or the inhabitants of those lands where all this killing is taking place than it would be to spend the same money on health care or education or housing or, for that matter, paying down the National debt. I understand the concern for deficit spending, but how is it that you never express any concern for the misdirected spending on the US military? Do we need 200 military bases all around the world? Weapons programs we will never use and we know are already outdated? Ill conceived invasions and take-downs of petty screw-ups that do not threaten the U.S.? Seriously?

I find it interesting how people who complain about deficit spending never seem to complain about defense spending. You wring your hands about how "irresponsible" it is for Obama to borrow money for economic stimulus, but we spend more on "defense" than the next ten nations combined (maybe the entire rest of the world). Not only that, but our military escapades have by all accounts been generally ill-conceived since WWII. Where's the call for responsibility?

There was a Huey hovering over Green Giant Buttress and circling around the clear creek valley just before dark yesterday (July 3). It looked like a rescue in progress to me, but today I called the ranger station and they didn't know anything about a rescue. Does anybody know if there was an accident on Dreamer? Is everybody OK?

Exfo Dome has the best of the best: a half dozen good routes on this side and several on the other.

There are relatively few of them but north or west facing crags include the Pearly Gates (shade 'till early afternoon), W. side routes on Exfoliation Dome (shade 'till ten or noon, depending on the route) or the tower route on Big 4 (gets no sun at all)... Index goes into shade around 4:00.

Without trying it, I believe that. I learned long ago that the Munter does not twist the rope if you use it in a configuration where the load end and the guard end of the rope head the same direction from your locking carabiner (note: "'biner" not "beaner"). For use as a top-rope belay device or for lowering someone, for example, the Munter does not twist the rope and it is very simple to operate compared to mechanical devices. I use the munter when climbing sometimes and, in more than one situation where I was setting up the belay station for someone else (inexperienced) to operate, I have opted for it because I actually thought it more secure than setting them up with a figure eight or ATC or whatever.

Jacobs Ladder and Rainman involve more than just slab climbing,* though Rainman has two pitches and part of a third with some significant stretches of pure slab climbing (JL starts out with two pitches of slab and finishes with a pitch that is mostly slab climbing but these are not the heart of the route). You will find these routes different than a typical slab climb - in places steeper and involving edging and such. Dark Rhythm is a slab climb and a good one. W. Buttress (Blueberry) actually involves very little slab climbing, but Westward Ho is purely a slab climb. I don't know, but I bet SunDried Tomatoes involves a significant amount of face climbing as well. The sidewalk is actually very clean right now. It is a mess getting to it, but it is a short mess. *I realize that modern climbers call anything less than vertical a "slab" so I'll offer some clarification. By "slab climbing" I mean climbing where you step on the middle of the front of your foot and generally step up with little or nothing for a positive edge to pull on. Where these climbs get steeper you must use edging technique and hope for some king of fingerholds.

I added two bolts at places where there had previously been rather marginal pro for a long way, and one to a new variant on pitch 6 (the last few times I've been up there I ended up climbing up to a (now) off-route bolt to clip it to then climb down again and make a tricky traverse). The route remains pretty much just as it was. I added a rappel station straight in line on the lower part of the route so you don't have to make a seriously diagonal right rappel followed by a diagonal left one. I'll be tinkering with the route some more. My next trip up there will involve some scrubbing. If anybody wants to help I'd be glad for a partner. My regular partners are fixated on other matters.

I'll go up there with you, Mr. F. The Dome really IS a lot of fun with a great combination of a an actual peak climb that has a truly enjoyable approach with real rock climbs up to about 12 pitches. And the views are spectacular. Did I forget to say how great it is?

Trip: Exfoliation Dome - Date: 6/28/2009 Trip Report: I went up the Dome yesterday and it was GREAT! Somebody has cleared the road to fifty yards short of the usual parking spot, where the road was severely damaged by a huge slide that came down the Granite Sidewalk last year. The last mile or so needs some brushing along the roadsides and crossing the first gravel wash below Baloney Dome is not passable for a low rider, but the road is actually in pretty good shape. The first two hundred yards up the wash toward the Granite Sidewalk is a mess, but it could be significantly improved if a couple of folks when up there with tools and just pushed some of the avalanche debris around enough to make a clearer passage (even just sweeping the sand of some of the boulders with a broom would help). The remainder of the approach to the west side routes is cleaner than it was last year and the frogs have returned to the frog pond (I was worried about the little guys last year). Catbird and I climbed Dark Rhythm and then added a couple of bolts to Jacob's Ladder and to the rappels. I didn't get on these routes last year; I almost forgot how great they are. The Dome really rocks!

I have always sought permission. I wonder, though: where is the basis for it if someone really expects that kind of courtesy if they post something in a public forum on the Internet? I realize that books have been copyrighted for eons, but isn't the Internet a different beast? Don't we expect that anything we post here can be downloaded and conveyed elsewhere? Shouldn't we? (In the present instance, I won't use the photo unless I can contact the person who posted it. There is too much at stake to risk alienating somebody.)

I'm working on a flier for the WCC's Index fund-raising effort and have found a lack of photo's that show what the Lower Town Wall at Index is all about. We have some good climbing shots (could always use more) and satellite images are easy to come by, but I'm looking for someting that conveys the feeling of the place in a "what would I see if I went there" kind of way. A Flickr photo posted by somebody with screen name brewbooks is the closest to that I have found (an aerial oblique shot showing the Lower Town Wall area with a little broader view showing its setting is also something I am presently looking for). Does anybody know who "brewbooks" is? What do you folks think about harvesting photo's from the web and recycling them for use in other applications -- such as a fund-raising effort or (for that matter) some other purpose?

I assume you're talking about Wet Dream. I cleaned this route 2 years ago only to find ferns and blackberries growing out of it 2 months later. I have never seen it dry, so it's probably not worth the effort. If it were clean and dry, it would be fun though. My experience has been that if you clean a crack repeatedly a couple of times it tends to last. The blackberries and ferns eventually give up if they don't get a chance to grow leaves and feed their roots and the residual dirt and other stuff that begets more dirt and other stuff lessens with repeated cleaning.

I've done both approaches. You can traverse around from the ski area without a huge amount of up and down but I think it is easier to travel in and out via Source Lake.

I've met and climbed with lot of good partners here as well. Some bad, but in fact VERY few. I think you have to take the good with the bad, and you should exercise the same degree of caution you would show at a bulletin board at your neighborhood grocery store (and I hope that is significant).

Typical malarky from you, Jay. You appear to be recycling the talking points I heard on a debate on TV last night. "People only go bankrupt due to lost income, and not actual medical bills?" When was the last time you had to pay for brain surgery and rehab? Or even simple arthritis medication? (Hint: mine costs over $30,000 a year.) “When has monopoly reduced costs?” Say what? I did some research on this last year when we had this same debate on cc.com (I don’t remember if you participated or not) but it seems that virtually all studies show that the healthcare beurocricy created by private health insurance companies is FAR more expensive than the government program costs associated with the ever feared medicare program, and we have far greater per capita costs for worse public health outcomes in the US than in most if not every single other “advanced nation.” “Public healthcare shifts costs onto private payors?” I heard a discussion of this on the radio in the last few days and I don’t’ remember the “rebuttal” but I wonder: how is it that government does this? If a hospital accepts funds under the Hill-Burton act they must provide certain emergency services for patients who cannot pay, I think, but how is it that “government” forces private insurance companies to pay for patients whose care is paid for by public healthcare programs? et cetera et cetera et cetera. The advocates for private health insurance companies seem desperate to argue against any possibility that they would have to compete against a public funded program, when they cherry pick all the healthy people who they can sell cheap plans and reject the sick people who are too expensive, and yet they still seem to argue that "free market" is the answer to our healthcare problems. Garbage in garbage out, I guess.

Not only that, Sherri, but if the leader was unable to establish a belay and wanted to follower to simulclimb, tugging on them might be a particularly bad idea.