texplorer

Soon Distal will be take beta from me, the Dark Trad Lord. Eat your heart out DFA. Muha haha hahah hahah hahaaaaa

Good luck, its "the greatest rock climb in the world".

I understand your concerns doolittle. I am very aware that rapping is one time when there is really no backup. But, what is cavalier to you is simple and a reasonable risk to me. Not to be nit picky about it but how is that helmet you are talking about going to save you when the 180lb guy falls on you?

Yes Ian, I F@#$ed up that time. That has nothing to do with rapping except that I was off of that ridge about 2 minutes faster than slothrop and 2 minutes faster out of danger.

very true, but you forgot about tieing and untieing all those knots at the end of your ropes and I also don't use a locker to clip in at anchors either so . . . say a 10 pitch route 10 raps x 5 secs per rap check x 2 rap checks x 2 partners = 200 sec 10 raps x 2 ends of rope x 20 sec per knot = 400 sec 10 raps x 2 ends of rope x 30 sec per untie = 600 sec 10 raps x 3 sec less than locking biner to clip in =30 sec 10 raps x 3 sec less than locking biner to unclip = 30 sec 200+400+600+30+30=1260 1260/60 = 21minutes On a big 30 pitch route that comes out to 63 minutes and that's not even including when your ropes get stuck or the additional time your have to wait while your partner raps (because you have to wait to thread the anchors because you wouldn't want to untie the knots while they rap - this probably adds another hour or so)

C-seat, I understand that not everyone thinks the way I do. I am not criticizing being safe. What I am complaining about is why people have to come on here and remind us (who really already know) how to do it "right". Climbing is inherently dangerous PERIOD. If you want a totally safe sport then maybe climbing is not for you. I personally enjoy the possibility of danger and the thrill of knowing that every little action is important. That is what keeps me interested in climbing. . . and yes, if you screw up, you die. I think we all know that. You climb the way you want and I'll climb the way I want and if you don't climb like I do that's ok. (I just probably won't be trying to do some big routes with someone that in my opinion is "overly" safe.

maybe you should change your autosig sobo

Yes, it does, but I am sucking in the car back home with a 2-liter coke while you are still 5 pitches off the ground in an icestorm triple checking your belay device and unsticking your ropes.

What is up with all the "by the book" stuff lately. Whatever happened to the first page in the climbing guides? Come on folks, I guess if you want to be a gumby and wear a helmet, your seatbelt, and triple check everything before you rap that's ok with me. I just don't want to climb with you because I get impatient with that crap. There is a difference between being sloppy and being a safety-consciencous freak. I make sure my belay device is on right the first time and go. I visually inspect a partner if they are rapping too. I never tie knots in the ends of the ropes unless it looks like its really close to the next anchor and still watch for the ends as I rappell. You can still be fast and safe. So I am tired of this drivel about rapping and gym safety, belay escapes, and other such preaching.

Your main avy concerns (if any at all) are after you go over the illumination saddle and before you enter the couloir. The route is straightforward and very solo-able.

Basically there are a small group of climbers that have permission to go to the caves. If you know one of these climbers you can go but if you don't your SOL. That's the beta. Also unless your a pretty hard climber your not going to be able to do much there anyway.

I thought that Mao's little red book was kinda soft for the grade. pretty much just tenuous stemming. The pro is good and the actual crux section seems pretty short. I believe I remember getting in several bomber nuts and a few aliens.

If you head up to flagstone there are probably 100 new routes up there after another winter of mad drilling.

Many here are asking why Martha was singled out. I ask why a woman who already has many millions participates in a clearly illegal activity that has far reaching potential to hurt her. I think the answer must be simple. GREED So, in my opinion, I hope Matha serves the maximum amount of time in prison.

Watch out for that last move- its a duezy.

A very interesting article from one of the best ice climbers in the world. Too bad that technology makes ice climbing "easy" for everyone. Maybe he'll just have to suck it up and climb yet harder or more committing lines . Or. . Maybe it will take the next generation to define what ice climbing will become. If its so easy, will people solo M?'s? Seems kind of a lame argument to me.

That really sucks!!!! I think I would consider suicide if that happened to me. . . . . . not to mention my net worth would be about 10 bucks if all my climbing stuff was stolen.

Do you ever have one of those weekends where you feel like your eyes were opened to something new? Well, I had one of those weekends. Yes, it was great! We saw a redpoint of To Bolt or Not to Be (5.14), and even caught a short glimpse of the elusive DFA. I want to thanks TimL and Distel getting me excited about pushing myself again on some hard sport stuff. On the way back to Portland I could hardly keep the drool in my mouth as I perused through my weathered smith guide at all the possibilities. Thanks everyone!! Oh, nice pics Luke. Just a few more days in the gorge and your turn to the dark side will be complete.

Ok, so I'm not climbing in it. I am in my trademark carharts on the back cover watching one of the Thomas Huber getting his hair pulled in a classic game of "bottle pushing."

Which is a worse slideshow dialog. Dru, "So on this pitch we placed six snargs and though we think there was rock we couldn't find it under the 3 feet of moss." Distal, "So on this problem you crank off the heinous mono into a crimpy gaston before a gnar gnar mantle 4 ft off the deck."

I went down the death slabs this fall after the rockfall. All the fixed ropes are in place still and in good condition. Another option is to hike up the night before to the base. (There is also a spring at the base flowing in spring time) You could camp at the base and even fix a pitch or two then start juggin in the dark the next morning. Oh, and I don't think there is any OW on the route. Chimneys yes, but not OW that I remember.

If some of you are going through Portland I might hitch a ride and split the gas with ya too. TimL?? RuMR?? I want to head to the upper gorge if anyone is interested. There are several 3-4 star climbs over there I haven't done and even some sport routes for those of you leading harder stuff.

OK Scott, here's my suggestion. If you go late in the spring the days will be long. The death slabs can be tricky. If you go with intentions of a one-day ascent (which I would recommend) then you can make it up the slabs in as fast as an 1.5 hrs. I dread to think hiking up those things with a haulbag. However I would allow 2-2.5 hours and another hour or so to hike in. The supertopo guide is actually pretty good. It is not a well beaten path up higher though. Be sure to take the time to get it right though because there is ONE way up in a few places and just bushwacking might get you into trouble on this one. My suggestion is that you start hiking about 2:00 am. Head up the death slabs early and try to make it up to the base by sunrise. If you move at a moderate rate you'll be able to finish the route in the light. I disagree with lawgoddess about there being OW chimneys. There are chimneys but they are actually really long and fun. Linking lots of pitches is possible if your not short fixing and there is actually a good bit of real 5.9 climbing (as opposed to normal hard Yosemite 5.9) You'll top out and be able to take the 9 mile trail back down or take the short cut back down the death slabs if you feel confident. Good luck

too bad the tcu's ARE wider than aliens.

I generally thought most of the pics sucked. No, I didn't post any other options. I think that there have to be more great pics from the climbers of this site.