texplorer

What are you guys (and prana-top wearers) up to this weekend?

If that ever was the case it is not true now. However, rampant bolting of new lines will bring down the wrath of local choppers. It is still pretty much a trad area. A few new lines are going up that have sections of sparse pro and in these sections bolts are still being placed. I do not know of any sport lines being put up and hope that the current ethics continue to stay that way.

I ran the Portland Marathon a few years back on two days of training in the 3 months leading up to the race. I paid for it too and would recommend not scheduling work for the afternoon after the race or getting really hammered the evening following the race.

I saw Aurora a month ago. It's #24.

Cruel Sister, Wartley's Revenge, Karate Crack, Rising Expectations, Delerium Tremens, The Fox, Master Loony (OK one bolt), Zebra Zion (solo the first pitch and it goes boltless), Prometheus, On the Road, The Pearl, Spiderman Some good cracks to check out in your smith guide . .

On a related note, does anyone know where I can get a swager and materials that will fix my alien size trigger wires?

I couldn't look up the link posted to the AAC but frankly who cares. By the time your that accomplished, seasoned and well known do you really need an award to recognize you? I mean I like hearing stories about Fred and all but he is one of a kind. Our society is so anxious to make heroes and "legends" of of our sports, government, and hobbies. There are many great climbers in the NW that have been climbing for years and done many impressive things. Do we really think they need more recognition? If they are worthy enough to match up with the likes of Mr. Beckey then they should be well known enough already. I think a more appropriate award would be for each year's greatest accomplishments in the NW. I would go to see and hear people talk about that and I think that an awards event like that would inspire and motivate the next generation.

I know it can be done faster than that.

This is a snaffle.

Last week I was cleaning a new route and had a single line TR set up with several long webbing slings to some trees. The next morning I came out and jugged my line to find one of the anchors gnawed half way through. I could read the headlines now, "Death by Snaffle."

Ivan and all, I pleed with all of you not to nail. I agree with Mark that many of these old nail-up lines are now in the realm of freeness. If you really need to nail or learn to nail like me then there are some better less traveled options for this very close to beacon. Even Opdike can give you some more suitable places to nail. Thanks, Tex

I got a bumper sticker from trango that says, "My best vacation is your worst nightmar" My other fav, "If you don't like the way I drive, stay off the sidewalk"

So what is supposedly wrong with them?

I don't know about "cranking" the SE corner but yea it is a fun climb. I am not sure but the rock starting the third pitch seemed to be different (like something broke off). Yes, there really was a dead falcon on the SE corner traverse. Oh, watch out for a semi loose rock topping out the first pitch.

I got there about 7:30 on opening day and saw several parties but noone was as dumb as my girlfriend and myself to start the SE corner with 1 hour of daylight left. The rock was relatively clean except for a dead falcon I lobbed off. Didn't get to check much else out as it was dark for most of the route. maybe I'll be able to get one day this weekend.

Was at the pearly gates Sunday, - we were the only ones there. We had fun until it rained on us.

Unleavened worth. Did the classic midway and saber until we got burned off and hit the river. Did you lose a brown tri-cam on this route? Because its now on my booty rack. That evening after towing two logs off the road we went up to punk rock and did a fun, thin, offset crack that ends in about 30 feet of #4 camalot size goodness. Sunday went up to the pearly gates. Climbed a few good cracks before getting rained out. A good weekend with the girlfriend and highlander.

Damn Beacon is a good chunk of rock! Hope to see some of you there this summer.

I can't find anyone selling or a picture of this ledge. Could you provide a link?

How do you know that it is a good placement without the new "rangefinder" dots to guide you?

BEACON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

A good idea but don't they already have a similar design to yours out. You wear "spikeless" shoes and then instead of strapping on your soles they have strap on spike plates. So you can wear your lightweight shoes and carry very light spiked soles.

Good TR and pics I would add that probably any fall up high on the rocks would result in a line of descent off of the Elliot.

Last I heard Jake was up to something with Eamonn McNeely and Evo. Those are some pretty hardcore guys to be hanging with. Maybe he can post some more TR's when he returns to the NW

That 5.8 on the chicken has got to be one of my favorite climbs of the grade ever.