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Everything posted by texplorer
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I'm going to be climbing on Sat too. I have relatives coming down from tacoma so I hope the spring flingers will be ok with a half day or so from texplorer. I figure its better to give a half day than none at all. Yes, I'll be climbin on Sunday too. Maybe I'll get on crossfire again or sunshine di if I'm feelin endowed in the juevos.
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DFA, I don't use hexes. Ian, Shouldn't you be skiing. Micky Layton, at least my shoulder works properly. OH, and see you bolt-clippin homos at the spring thing tomorrow.
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You guidebook whores! Throwing away your older, dirty, and scribbled to hell guidebooks. Just because you want to put a little check by the new 10 gallon bucket entry into your "new" guidebook is sad. It was bad enough when you scrounged for that red thing with Lawson crap in it. Oh, and that "Wherever I may roam" is a disgrace to the metallica song. Classic my ass, its a medoicre climb of the gumbic proportions.
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I thought Halfdome is a grade V though?
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Great TR, I like the non-spray like reporting that was to-the-point and fun to read. Nice job, Sounds like you had a sweet day on the mountain.
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Masternate, If you and your partner climb .10 in the valley or at index then you'll do fine on the reg route. It is really alot of 5.9 climbing. Take a regular rack of double cams for the thing from tcu's up to a #3 camalot and you'll be fine. The aiding is straightforward and pretty fast. I think I ended up aiding like 3 pitches and part of 2 more. I didn't place a single nut on the whole thing and french freed even some hard .10 sections. If your fairly fast then you could go pitch by pitch or go even faster by short fixing at least aid pitches. A few other options would to be to camp at the base and fix the first two pitches or so and then jug in the dark the next morning. Good Luck, the Reg Route is one of my favorite climbs of all time!
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It's going to be HOT!! I'm possibly heading to the needles then instead. If you guys are looking to do free-climbing I would recommend something up in tuolumne. Another option would be routes that are in the shade all day like Half Dome or the Sentinal.
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There are some "newly trashed" computers to the right of the silver bullet wall. That place is a constant stream of juvenile carnage. I don't think it'll ever be clean.
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I'll save you the time ketch, No, its not worth it.
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Hood Southside conditions tonight (Fri/Sat)
texplorer replied to deskjockie's topic in Oregon Cascades
Good Luck, I might see you up there this weekend if the weather cooperates. -
Retire your cams!!! Send them to : Texplorer's Home for Fallen Cams 420 Red Cougar Drive Portland, OR 97203
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I'll show up around 4-4:30 ish and stick around for an hour or two. Look for the red cougar with a novel bumber sticker.
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Greeting Fellow Portlanders, I am moving all over the place this summer and hopefully climbing a good bit too. Anyway I plan to be in and out of housing/my car this summer and was wondering if anyone has some garage or basement where I could put my stuff for the summer. I might even pay for it if it's cheaper than those damned storage unit places. Its slightly more than one pickup load but compacts down pretty small. Thanks, TEX
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Last Thursday I was at Broughton's and also saw the back side window of a car there had been broken out. Watch out and don't leave stuff in plain sight out there either. I have heard of several other break-ins out there too.
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Well, My first outing at Index was a pretty spectacular one. I would liken it to my first day at the cookie in yos but this time I was strong enough to send some of the classics. It was a no falls weekend for me but I pretty much did the "easier" stuff. I got to lead every pitch of zilla to slow children. Damn that last pitch on Slow Children pitch is really sweet. Next we headed over and I did Thin Fingers which I thought was easier than Slow Children. I finished with a TR on Sagitarius. On Sunday we did Davis-Holland to lovin-arms. . .well sort of . I did the chimney of lovin arms and mistakingly missed the traverse right and went through some mossy, loose shit and topped out on moss. Lovin Arms was totally dry though. Next time I will have to suck it up and try jap gardens or maybe iron horse. I will be back!!!
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I sent on some fine granite this weekend. Index rocks. A spectacular setting, great weather, and some really fun climbs.
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I like Broughtons better too Ivan but noone ever wants to make the 15 min drive to a much better crag. After all it is light until 8:30 nowadays. I'll see if I can make it to the butt this thursday though.
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DFA, Get with the program man. I am an NEO-lowercase, lower-class, CARHART-wearing, ANTI-hex-carrying, offwidth-wrestling, hypocritically-bolt-clipping, Bachar wannabe, pseudo-old-school-trad-hardman, never-be-a-Stonemaster, suhhthurn-drawwlin', horsecock-slobbering, NO-TAPIN, primadonnapansynancyboysissywimploserdfamothershagger. Thankfully, at both ends of the climber spectrum there is a sprayer-class so we can all have something in common.
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The wire brush is my weapon of choice (learned from the fellow mossinater, jk)
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Thanks for the input everyone! See you there minana. I am ready to get my whoopins.
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So I'm heading up to Index tomorrow for the first time and (I know Ive asked before) what are the classic routes that I just have to do there. I am mainly interested in .10 to .11 free routes (not bolted). Oh, and what guidebook should I get for the place. I already have the crappy smoot washington thing.
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TimL, RuMR, and DFA team up to form the Exuberant-use-o-capitals-in-their-avatars triad. . . defenders of sporto crankers and striped lycra wearers everywhere
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um. . . interesting?. . .Don't know what you mean there but there are alot of new routes over on koala rock and the marsupials.
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Ketch, it is a big state. From Austin your looking at least a 14 hour drive to hueco tanks. Hueco will be prime in November if that is your cup of tea. The Wichita Mtn Wildlife Refuge up in Oklahoma has a good amount of granite climbs up to 3 pitches. Reimers Ranch, Enchanted Rock and the Greenbelt right in Austin are decent places to boulder or climb. There is also that new place listed in Rock and Ice I think a few months ago near Del Rio,TX. I might also suggest potrero chico down in Mexico. It will be in good climbing weather too. You have alot of options, check that Texasmountaineers website for more info.
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[TR] Leavenworth- Outer Space/Mary Jane Dihedral/Canary 4/18/2004
texplorer replied to slothrop's topic in Alpine Lakes
Caption 1: In search of those elusive mountains again? Caption 2: Climbing Mountains, or even viewing them, can be fun.
