texplorer

it's time to get down . . it's time to get down,. . . jump around. . . JUJMP AROUND

I did this route on Sunday and was told by a guy there that it only gets done once every couple of years. I thought it was a pretty fun route, just full of pidgeon shit. Anyway I recommend this route as the moves and position are pretty fun and once you pull the lip it's a nice .9 smith crack. I was wondering if anyone else here has done this thing?

Ivan, I might suggest cornercopia at Smith as a solo aid option. Definetly not a hammer practice thing but there is a bolt near the ground to use as anchor point. I saw a guy roped solo aiding there last weekend.

a 2nd to "Camp 4". It is exactly the book your looking for.

I actually did reverse the undercling moves on blue light . . .3 times but I kept going out to that damned sucker pocket instead of the two half moons. Also DFA, placing trad gear is more taxing than clipping a draw so sometimes it is easier to climb up, get a few placements in, come down and shake out, and then fire through the section without clipping. Kind of the trad version of stick-clipping I guess.

Mike, can you post some pics of your clothes.

So what if there's a big ledge a foot off the ground muff? . . . .or what if its a blocky start. That kind of negates your rules.

I guess instead of having belay slaves, boulderererers have camera slaves. Nice picturesqes Luke.

Oh, and I'm glad this post is not mocking the revered Terminal Gravity or I would have to convert my bolt-chopper into a weapon of sprayer destruction.

Oh, and I'm glad this post is not mocking the revered Terminal Gravity or I would have to convert my bolt-chopper into a weapon of sprayer destruction

My experience is that .11 slab has NO edges, like nothingness. Of course I have only been on a few of em up at squish but damn those things are hard.

pics are compliments of hexman

Dylan, suppose you have a right to believe what you wish. I learned the "climb down" technique from a old school valley hardman. I asked the initial question because like yourself one of my partners had a differing opinion. My experiences have taught me that climbing is about being crafty. One of my favorite things to do is to "cheat" within the rules. I have done sport climbs that allowed me handjam rests where my forearms totally recovered, place two pieces of gear and then as you enter the crux slide one up, and other such tricks to "onsight" and "redpoint" routes. When your trying to climb hard its all about playing the game. I would also be curious as to what you consider climbing back down to the ground. Are fourth class boulders the the start or how about a big rock at the bottom. Also are you saying that any downclimbing is "off bounds" during a redpoint attempt? The way you make it sound is that if you go up and fondle a few holds before committing you've blown your onsite.

some cool pics the rescue

On the other side of the river in the lower gorge has some nice .7 and up climbs. Since your there on monday I second the moscow, super slab area for nice well protected moderates. I might also add stadender ridge and the marsupials for a little more remote climbing and easy trad.

I have a small "drawing book" that I got a barnes and noble or some other such place on their bargain book rack. It's hardbound and has no lines so I can write, draw, etc. It's kinda heavy so I usually don't take it into the field but just record gear and route beta and copy topos to it later.

Oh yea, that's right lummox. I remember having a windproof vest and carharts on for my ascent and I didn't get that hot.

No frontal nudity for me, Muffy. I would say I am pretty much just soft core.

Thanks for the input. For future reference I am with RuMR and Snoboy. I have done many "onsites" where I climbed up, placed gear, downclimbed to the ground, rested, and then fired the route. In my opinion we use gear simply to save our ass in case of a fall. The onsite or redpoint occur when you would be able to solo the route but you have placed gear for the chance that you might fail. So I guess my opinion to my original question is Yes,Yes, pink. Thanks for your input.

No Bill, it was not me but I plan on getting out there this summer with mark to try to free some other old aid lines as well as put up some new ones.

With blood. . . . . . . . . . .of course it gets a little hard when you climb with other AB types.

So do you consider it a redpoint if you climb up, place gear, downclimb to the ground and rest up before going all the way to the top? How about the same situation for an onsite? Also, what about climbing another route and placing pro on it to protect a different climb?

Matt, I think I did that last july. I think its called unfinished symphony and yes it has some runouts on that thing.

I would say it's not going to be crowded but you are going to get scorched.

I have done many big walls in the desert and in yosemite and have yet to nail on anything except yocum ridge. I think nailing is a thing of the past in main freeclimbing areas and even most of the major walls around. Bring pins to the mountains or your A4 lines. Mark, myself, and several others are trying to free alot of those "aid" lines at beacon. Be very careful where you aid. There are not many ways to ruin routes but hammering is one of them.