texplorer

Yep, Dr. Bloom's guide to Indian Creek is out. Besides the fact that he left my route out, its a pretty good looking guidebook.

Texplorer will be there tomorrow!!! OH, and you can climb the first two pitches of gandalfs or classic crack in the pouring rain if you are a real hardcore addict like me.

Nice TR and pics on a classic valley link-up

Tomtom, I am not stupid. I would guess that it is near yosemite falls but it could be by any of several other large falls in the valley. I assume from cj's cryptic post that he believes it to be near the lost arrow spire. I have only heard of lost arrow chimneys route over in that area and do not consider that a wall but there might well be something over there.

where is the falls wall?

Sorry about the pack loss Jim. I hope it was actually just a kid stealing the pack for the pack and money and not someone stealing climbing gear. Not that either is ok but I just like to think of climbers as having a little bit more scruples or at least respect for other climbers. I have heard of at least 4 break-ins in and around portland in the last year where climbing gear was stolen. that really makes me sick.

damn skyclimb, well thought out.

Um, isnt that the lost arrow spire and not the geek tower?

Maybe downclimbing is will replace the moondance?

Downclimbing only works if you can recover from the lower holds. If you cannot then your better off blasting through. I usually onsight very close to my lead level. I think alot of it is a natural talent to solve problems but anyone (including myself) can benefit from the mental imagery already described by DFA and others. An additional technique I use for onsighting trad is to estimate where and what size gear to use and where. I often clip longer runner to gear before starting a climb if necessary. That way I can fire gear faster and also know how far I should go before placing another piece.

Climbed the Kramer route up at Careno Crags with jk and then went up to the pearly gates on sunday. Was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the pearly gates area. That is some nice granite up there.

Thanks for the input everyone. DFA, my routes up to this point don't need bolts except for an occasional anchor. I guess I'll make Dru and CrzyPlshBob happy and make it a 5.8

where are you guys going to be at the butte?

Recently I have began to delve into the idea of putting up more routes and have a question about how to rate these climbs. So when you put up a new route do you instantly give it the rating you think it deserves, give people an estimate of what you think it is (5.10+ to 5.11-), or let them totally decide assuming it isn't dangerous for that climber. I usually give the estimate of what its rated and then get their opinion as it rates to the crag in general. I was just curious as to what the "proper" etiquette was for this matter being there is so much "rating inflation" hype going on these days.

Texplorer bows to show his reverance for the masters of the sport he loves.

TLG, why don't you come down to index for the best climbing in the NW.

I could go somewhere today . . . .

I am going to be up in the seattle area for mem. day weekend and am looking for a partner on Sat and Sun. Unfortunately I am not open on Monday. I am interested in climbing .10 to .11 cracks at index, wash pass, leavenworth, or some other cool place.

I TR on a gri gri in the same way bill, As well, I use the gri gri for aid and free solo leading. Also, I totally agree with the stupidity of a "fall" using the system Shapp was describing. If you have enough weight on the end, the rope will feed nicely.

Zebra Zion Peking Moscow Tale of two shitties Super Slab Spiderman Sundown then continue up a .10a sport pitch to the right of minos morgul Brogan Spire Anything on testament slab and then continue up crazy zigzag pitches, for extra spice traverse to crack (pro in pockets) and climb up to the priest summit .9 to .10a ish.

What I was trying to get across is that anything worth doing and working towards usually has some sort of risk involved. That can be emotional, financial, health, or physical risks. Now granted all risks do not need to be taken. For instance, not wearing a seat belt is not a necessary risk. Granted, climbing is not necessary to live or "be successful" in life unless that is how you self actualize. I admit that I like adrenaline rush but that is only a part of the appeal of climbing. I know that with climbing I can achieve new and more challenging objectives. One of the greatest things about climbing is the variety of ways to "up" the ante. You can do harder routes, longer routes, sport to trad, trad to aid, run things out, solo, climb on ice, rock, snow, choss, shrubbery, etc. There are so many ways to challenge yourself. Increased risk is only one of those ways that is usually not the goal but inherent in doing longer routes, scarier routes especially in the mountians. I think the fact that climbing appears and sometimes is dangerous is at least part of the appeal of it for most of us. Otherwise you would all be doing other "extreme " sports like golf for example. Golf and other sports are outside and require an intense concentration that is present in climbing but lack the danger element. So if you detest the risks that climbing provides there are alternative forms of climbing and alternatives to climbing.

Many good comments here. I just saw the new movie, Troy. Although I thought the movie was OK it made me think alot about my life. I think that part of the allure of climbing IS THE RISK that is inherent. If it wasn't risky it wouldn't be as meaningful or fun. Not everyone wants that to push things that far or even climbs for that reason, but I do. Having real consequenses in a world where it seems everything is so fake and unreal is my draw to climbing. I recently had an "in your face" kind of experience with the realities of the dangers of climbing. Pulling rocks off in your face and down on your belayer is scary but I feel the same about my climbing. I by no means have a death wish but have a life wish. As the saying goes, a life without risk is no life at all. May you all chose your risks carefully and may the gods favor yall. Oh, and Liberty Ridge is on my agenda in 2 weeks.

good trip report and pics.

I seem to remember several .9 to .10 routes but nothing under that grade. Fun but limited number of climbs unless you climb pretty hard.

You can try and PM Jim Anglin on here. He goes by retired on here and he did alot of the first ascents up there in the menagerie.